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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
OK sounds like we may have Life.
So it appears the Ignition switch is most Likely at this stage the issue.
Next task is to remove the Ignition Barrel to inspect the Switch section on the Bottom.
Looking to inspect the switch for a Poor/Broken contact on the Brown Wire terminal.

You'll need to remove the Top Yolk complete with Barrel.
I did try to upload a video but was the wrong file format... We've definitely got some life thanks to your instructions!! I bridged from white to brown and the cluster lit up, pressed the starter button and the engines turning over then the rain came in but my partner knows I can't sit still so we've just got an old trampoline frame and thrown an old tent over the top of it so I can still work in the rain 馃槄

I'm just looking through the manual that you sent so I can get the ignition switch removed, would I need to drill the security bolts out to get to the wires or does the bottom unclip? I couldn't tell by looking at it in situ, also if there is no poor/broken connection, I'm guessing it's worth ordering a new barrel kit straight away? The owner has been told that a new barrel is likely but he's over the moon to see life and sends his thanks as well.
 

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Yer it's Raining Cats & Dogs hear and the Wind is up but not a patch on those poor Folks in the usa.
Thanks for the Thanks (y)
It's the complete Switch/Barrel assembly and yep the Tamper Proof bolts will need removing, For the most part Drilling is the best option.
Another method is using a very good centre punch to knock them round after heating up the Screws with a Hot Air Gun to loosen the Locktite.

Replacing the Switch can also lead to it's own problems, You need a Genuine one if you want to fit and forget, Aftermarket will need some additional hardware to function properly details of which I will drop in a PM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
After some amazing advice so far which I'm very grateful of especially as the owner of the bike has also seen life back in it with a few tests.. I have removed the yoke and flipped it over then slowly drilled out the security bolts under the ignition to get to the wiring.

I noticed the white and brown wires were fused together so these were split away from each other and continuity checked on every wire, each one checked out fine so I started to look at the switchboard and noticed a bump in the plastic between the white and brown wire contacts so quite possibly the cause of the issue. Just off to visit the owner so I can tell him a new ignition is likely to be needed but have got so ideas of possibly a small solder on the contacts to raise them as a temporary fix so I can look into if there's a spark whilst waiting on a new barrel....
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I've looked at the spring connections at the bottom of the switch and one of them was pressed and locked down so it's been levered into position and the side slighty tweaked to let it slide without locking. Then held the back in place and connected to the bike, turn the key and the cluster is alive along with the starter button turning the engine over! I don't think it will be a permanent fix but will at least let me check for a spark without having to watch for a bridge wire jumping out... Now to find some bolts to secure the back of the ignition in place again
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Today I've managed to put the bike back together! It's now powering up off the key everytime! I don't think it will be a permanent fix so the owner knows that it's likely to need full replacement in future.

I had to put a new fuel line on the tank as the original one had been cut when the owner wanted the fuel out of it for his other bike but after a few attempts the bike fired up off the button which allowed me to test the charging system which showed to be charging at 14v at idle, the next plan was to get it round to a local bike garage for them to double check the charging system as well as the regulator as it's something I've never tested so rather it was done by people that know what they're doing and had the equipment on hand but this is when new problem has shown itself.... The bike will idle and rev no problem at all so we decided to put all the fairings back on and secure everything back in place then the bike decided it no longer wants to idle let alone rev so as soon as trying to ride the bike it's cutting out and I ran out of light to carry on..

On my next free day, I'm hoping to do a few checks;
Look at the fuel line I fitted in case it has kinked under the tank and starving the fuel... (The tank wasn't secured down when it was idling fine)
Check/change the fuel filter...
Check if my filter pressure tester can link to the bike to check fuel pressure although that seemed fine before the tank was secured...
Check the carbs as I found out today that the guy that was supposed to be fixing the bike literally stripped it down and left it in the open for any rain and debris to get into the system and on the initial start up any crap in the system would of been dragged through, the only part of the system that has always been kept somewhere dry and clean was the fuel tank which is now half full so fingers crossed it's something easy to spot and fix over the next few days then it can be taken for the checks locally. At the moment I'm more drawn to a kinked pipe seeing it was just some fuel line I had laying about instead of the shaped line but know I got a few things going on over the next few days so hoping to find time in between everything else.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Well .. the bike is running!! Thanks for all the advice from @KevA absolutely flawless with the info his given me!

When I lifted the fuel tank to check for kinks we found a split pipe on one of the original hoses so drained the tank, flipped it on its side and replaced all the original lines. The bike still didn't want to start and eventually killed the battery off so we tried a battery of my mates CBR but still nothing. By this time I had run out light so left it.

Today I was planning on testing the fuel pump and with more advice from Kev, drain the carb bowls to check for water as the bike had been stood stripped down and left in the open for a few months before it came to me, it was instantly covered when I got it and a make shift workshop (trampoline frame and tent) made so I could work in the rain but had suspected carp to be in the carbs but at the same time my friend had a arrived with someone from the fmgarage that are testing the regulator for us and a trailer ready to take the bike away but decided to put jump leads on the bike... We had tried them several times yesterday but today the bike fired up instantly, ran fine and rode up and down the street a few times with no visible problems or noises so it has now gone to the garage for the final checks on regulator and charging system so fingers crossed the bike is fixed!!

The issue with the bike when it arrived was no power at all and a complet none starter... The cause turned out to be a dead contact in the ignition due to a bump in the circuit board and locked contact pin, pictures are included above if anyone has a similar issue, my fix will not be permanent as the barrel is showing signs of a fault as the key can be removed with the engine running so a new barrel will be ordered.

The burnt wires on the kill switch were for the lights, at some point the fuse for the light had been updated so would of burnt out later and possibly damage wires but it was also wrapped in foil at one point to stop the fuse popping, again leading to possible burnt wiring. With this, I cut those 2 wires out til I could find "good" wire then soldered a new wire in place and heat shrinker it, rather than cutting the main loom, I used clip on joiners as I had also damaged the locating pin on the back casing of the kill switch so have had to use a screw as a temporary fix to lock the switch in place to stop it spinning with the throttle so again, this will be getting replaced completely to get a firm grip on the locating hole and also know that wiring is factory finish so hopefully will never have the same issues anytime soon 馃

Again, a huge thanks to kev for all the help with this, it's very appreciated!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
It's alive!

Good job Tiger (y)

Kev rocks, that's a Kawiforum fact!
Kev was absolutely spot on with all the advice for where and how to check certain areas especially as I'm usually working on cars so bikes are literally favours for friends and family... Clutches, Chains, sprockets etc al seem simple to do as well as restore my stepsons little 2 stroke bike from a non runner of 4 years to fully working was easy enough but with the ZZR, we were told it would need a new CDI and a few other bits which would of ended up more than the bikes worth but it's literally cost 拢8 for some bolts so far until the kill switch and ignition is replaced and it's like Christmas for my mate when he's seen it light up and start! Best thing, the garage has also confirmed the charging system is working as well as the regulator and fitted a new battery whilst he was there so fingers crossed, the bike won't be needing any real attention anytime soon!!

Staying on the forum though as I can learn a lot more just in case the ZZR has issues in future but also helps of his CBR or Harley plays up as well although I won't touch the Harley unless it's something real simple 馃槀
 
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