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How do I open my stock can?

1012 Views 18 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  Poch
I don't mean unbolt it. I notice that there are 3 little screw things at the end of the can. If I unscrew them will I beable to see whats inside? What tool would I need?

Drive it like you stole it
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Ummm, I wouldn't if I were you. Why? Just in case you want to resell the bike.

Heck, if you can buy one off a local guy to you I'm sure. I have my stock pipe 'opened' up -- I knew I was gettinga pipe so I did it.

Just punch it/drill out the rivets. Then pry open, carefully.

'00 ZX6R silver
But can I close it back up again? How would I do that?

Drive it like you stole it
Well how do I take the baffles out?

Drive it like you stole it
Yeah, you can close it back up -- use a rivet gun (or borrow one). Easy to do. Or use screws of the appropriate length/width (a tap set helps immensely).

Taking it the baffle requires the use of a prybar and mallet. Careful, but with efforta nd some time, it comes out.

'00 ZX6R silver
what about jetting after this is done? would i need to shim the needles, or adjust float levels or something like that? how does it sound. i wouldnt want to lose that low throaty sound that makes the kawis so great.
How do I take the rivets out Cambridge? Or those 3 screw looking things?

Drive it like you stole it
I strongly recommend getting a slip on pipe.

If you're dead set, just punch the rivets out using a drill of the appropriate diameter.

Note that the hole will be bigger since you've drilled the rivets out -- thus you will need a tap and die set to thread a new screw hole. You then use a screw of the right length and diameter to secure the end on.

'00 ZX6R silver
I removed the inner endcap on the stock exhaust and it sounded good but it made the midrange run like crap. It gave me 2 dips in power around 6k and 8k rpm. I guess if you save the money and jet the bike you will have a better sounding exhaust and a smoother running bike with more power.


Hell was full...so I came back
Friends don't let friends drive Hondas
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I'll just buy a slip on exhaust.


Drive it like you stole it
I wonder if the packing going bad is what's causing my flat spot at 9000rpm? I have 10k on the bike now but it didn't seem like the exhaust was any louder.






Green/Black 01ZX6r. LP
flushmount v's, valter moto rearset adjusters, tank guard. Removed decals, 2002 rear fairing, Pyramid hugger

96 SVT Cobra Black/Tan Vert 32V. Not stock!

93 Blue Probe GT 24V Commuter car.
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Like so many people here said already, get a slip on! Opens up all sorts of options as far as looks and sound.

ZX6R-J1 2000
I don't want a slip-on. I like the quiet stock muffler and just listening to that sweet engine sound.




Green/Black 01ZX6r. LP
flushmount v's, valter moto rearset adjusters, tank guard. Removed decals, 2002 rear fairing, Pyramid hugger

96 SVT Cobra Black/Tan Vert 32V. Not stock!

93 Blue Probe GT 24V Commuter car.
See less See more
record the sound... burn it to a cd... and buy a slip on.. put on some earphone listen to your cd while having a nicer exhaust with your bike running better
LOL. Good Idea. i might do that for when I am driving my Durango, I will listen to some ferrari sounds!!

Let Saddam come and play!
Originally posted by psyclone

record the sound... burn it to a cd... and buy a slip on.. put on some earphone listen to your cd while having a nicer exhaust with your bike running better
haha.. no thanks. I don't want to take any chances of messing up the bike's air/fuel ratio and losing any bottom end just to gain a little up top. Yeah, I know not all bikes need to rejet for just a slip-on but I don't want to deal with that and the noise just yet.

just a repack for now.. found this link and going for the superwool stuff. http://www.yft.org/tex_vfr/tech/repack.htm





Green/Black 01ZX6r. LP
flushmount v's, valter moto rearset adjusters, tank guard. Removed decals, 2002 rear fairing, Pyramid hugger

96 SVT Cobra Black/Tan Vert 32V. Not stock!

93 Blue Probe GT 24V Commuter car.
See less See more
a007sniper/ 96SNAKE016R,

I did all of the above with the stock pipe on my J1: opened up the rear end-cap with the 3 rivets, had the stock internals pulled out and replaced with a perforated straight pipe of the thickest stainless steel possible to produce a low note. I never knew before then that the stock pipe had the exhaust gasses going thru 4(!) chambers, with the main flow going like an S from the headers and out the exhaust hole. No wonder the effect of an aftermarket can is so dramatic.

The internals are practically a sealed unit, SNAKE, and the packing is minimal. There's not much need for packing since the internals do such a good job of killing noise (and emissions ... and joy). So, I'm not all that certain that the re-pack will do anything for your flat spot.

I didn't need to re-jet either -- in fact, with an ignition advancer as the only other mod, I was running a little rich and the tuner had to back off the needles by one notch. Evened up my air-fuel mixture. I understand you don't really need to re-jet if all you've added is an end-can; a re-jet to a stage 1 will be necessary if you combine the end-can with a high-flow filter.

Result was crisper throttle response, with no loss of bottom and mid-range. Does 240kph with a little left-over. And the sound is great: at idle it isn't loud but it reverbs thru the place. At high revs it's Michael McDonald doing "No Looking Back," full and throaty.

Best part for me is it's stealth image. People keep wondering where the gut-rumbling sound is coming from when all they see is stock [^]
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Oops, sorry about that post, guys, didn't notice the dates -- saw this thread when I did a search ... hope it helps somebody anyway ...
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