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Everything you need to remove the fairing is in your tool bag that comes with the bike. It should be an allen wrench and that is all. I took all of the bolts from the lower half of the fairing, and had my wife hold the fairing back while I removed the filter. Kind of a pain in the ass, but that is the only way I could do it without causing damage.

-Cops want a hot pursuit, so entertain them! -Shadee
 

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Jimmy G, Ride your bike long enought to heat up the oil, at least 5 miles, then when you get home, remove the oil drain plug ( in the bottom of oil sump) best to use a 17 mm socket but the toolkit wrench will suffice...this can be done without removing the fairing..remove the oil filler cap ( unscrew by hand ) on the right side by rear of fairing..this will allow air to enter crankcase and will speed up the draining..while oil is draining pull off the left fairing..simply unscrew all the allen bolts, fairing will stay in place even with the bolts out..the left and right fairings join at the bottom w/ 3 black plastic reusable rivets..these need to be removed..there is a small round center in the rivet which when depressed by a small pointy object will release the tension and allow you to pull it out ( somewhat similar to a concrete anchor ) to reinstall just push it back in til it makes a snapping sound..filter has a clamp that prevents it from unscrewing so use the allen wrench to remove it next..unscrew oil filter and let that drain a few minutes..put some of your new oil on the new oil filter's rubber gasket with your finger...screw the new filter on as tight as you can with your "hand" !!! re-install clamp and theres no way it will leak or back-out..next wipe off oil from around drain plug threads and re-install drain plug to recommended torque..I know you dont have a torque wrench, but be advised that most people overtighten this bolt..remember it is just a plug, and not holding anything together..snug it up then add a little pressure and turn it a little more, but not so much as to strip the threads in the sump (hassle to repair)..fill w/oil to top of oil sight level upper mark..crank engine to allow filter to fill (about 1 minute then shut off..check for leaks..add more oil as needed but dont overfill, hold bike level while checking..put fairing back on take a ride ..Enjoy the way your bike shifts so much better w/ fresh oil..[^]
 

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Know that was a long idiots guide to oil changes but I was an idiot and coulda used the help at first...been for a ride since that post and realized I forgot only one thing...dont forget to disconnect the electrical connection to the blinker on left fairing before removing from bike..all bolts must be loose so you can pull it slightly away from frame ( resistance felt will be from wires to blinker) depress plastic clip and pull connectors apart..Forgive me if I have insulted anybodys intelligence but I broke a fuel line quick connecter on my duc yesterday removing the tank for air filter maint..:( owners manuals should be a little more owner friendly....Suzuki has easy to service sportbikes and good manuals.
 

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wish I had read this before I did my oil change...the instructions on the main page....leaves out all the stuff you included I just completed my oil change about 20 min ago....it took me about 50 min....I didnt know the take off the oil filler cap to allow oil in and it took awhile to drain....thanks though!
 

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Sorry to bring an old post back but I have a few questions about this oil change business, I have searched and read every post on oil changes as well. I have been seeing conflicting info from this forum and my owners manual. I have a 03 zx6-rr and wish to do my own minor maintenance. The manual says to use a torque wrench which I do not own, it sounds like most other people are not using one and just being careful not to over-tighten, is this ok? Second I have read a few posts that say to hand tighten the filter much the same as we do on a car, the dealership told me to make sure I get a filter wrench if I intend to do my own filter replacement is the filter wrench (I cant remember the name of it) really necessary? Thanks for the responses in advance all :D

zkirby
 

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You can safely hand-tighten the filter. You then do not need a wrench, except perhaps the first time you remove the filter.
 

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ok so I can hand tighten it if I choose, I do think I will get a strap filter wrench to make things a bit easier though. what about the torque wrench for the drain plug that my manual calls for, is that necessary or can I get by without it?

zkirby
 

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One thing you can do to make it absolutely sure is to hand tighten it when you change the oil filter. Then, take an oil filter wrench or strap wrench and turn it an additional 1/8th of a turn. Don't forget to dip your finger into the oil you're about to use for the bike and lubricate the oil filter gasket.
 
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