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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I gutted my exhaust and I am looking for silicone sealant and paint, there are 2 categories of these things ,high heat (up to 600F) and extreme high heat(1200) the higher heat one the silicone is not paintable and only seen it red which doesn't work for me.

I have clocked my 911 at 670F but I was hoping the 650 would be lower temp than a high performance sport car
 

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Damn it I forgot!

I'll try again tomorrow! I have a lot going on, the tile guys finally finished tiling our kitchen and entry today and after I got home I started caulking the quarter round and then I returned 4 boxes of tile to Home Depot.

So I've been busy but I'll try again tomorrow

Sorry!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
no biggy, i went with the 1200F paint so if it get any hotter than that i think we have a problem!

but do measure it once you have a second just for future reference , i will do mine once it is back together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
One thing i noticed is that my stock can has a hole underneath to drip water/moisture etc, now that i have changed the design should i leave that or seal it?

Do aftermarket exhaust have a drip hole as well ?
 

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Your 911 is high performance relative to automobiles, and bikes are all high performance considering the HP/liter. Consider the 650, say 70hp from .65 liters, that would be equivalent to a 3.0 liter engine putting out 315hp, without a turbo. That's not shabby by any stretch. Now compare a 1.0 liter bike stomping out 180hp... :eek: Exhaust gas temps get screaming hot (turbo cars can exceed 1600°F easily), but by the time they exit the canister they're cooled quite a bit.

Motorcycles may have small engines relative to cars, but they can produce just as much heat!

I did some googling and found that motorcycle exhaust gas temps (at the engine) can float around 600-800°F at idle and exceed 1200°F at WOT.

The pipes will always be much cooler than this, but this is why ceramic coatings and header wraps are designed to withstand 2000°F... The muffler will be much cooler considering it has insulation and often times a heat shield. I wouldn't expect it to exceed 600°F though, so the 1200°F paint you used should work great. I'd still make sure the surface is prepped properly to ensure the paint sticks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
true indeed, never looked it from that point of view... thanks for the effort put into it.

i gave it a first coat(i do the hot bake painting style) then baked it on an improvised oven..lol... to make sure the paint sticks and then re-coated and baked it, another coat later today and then i will burn bake it tomorrow to see if it handles a continues 700 degrees without peeling.
 

· That Fighter Guy
2006 Kawasaki ZZR600 street fighter
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So the whole point of this thread was because you wanted to paint your exhaust? Why didn't you ask that in the first place?

Headers can get over 1000 degrees easy. The muffler can get up to about 500 degrees. I used engine enamel on my can (good to 500 degrees) and it has held up nicely.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
sorry i tend to do things the complicated way.....

i am using ultra high heat paint(1200F) from Rust-o-leon


did you apply any type of clear coating to your paint or just the enamel?
 

· That Fighter Guy
2006 Kawasaki ZZR600 street fighter
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I scuffed up the surface with 600 grit paper, then used two coats of self etching primer, then laid down two coats of 500 degree semi black engine enamel. Been riding with it painted for about 400 miles with no issues. And no, no clear coat over high temp paints, man. Now I don't know if the primer will work on the headers and mid pipe or not since they get much hotter, but I believe the 1500 degree paints are self priming. The key thing in any painting project is a clean, smoothe surface to begin with.

 

· That Fighter Guy
2006 Kawasaki ZZR600 street fighter
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Is it worth painting the down pipes? Mine are starting to rust up a little, especially where it joins on to the muffler.
Depending how bad the rust is, I would probably scrub all the rust off and spray the exhaust from the headers to the can in black. Your local auto parts store has everything you need. 600 or 800 grit paper is what you need to just roughen up the surface so the paint can "grab" better. Look on the back of the can and it'll tell you how long the paint needs to dry before you can ride. Also don't start reassembly until the paint has cured.
 
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