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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A mobile mechanic quoted me $240 and like $4 for shim for each valve. Is this correct?

I was thinking a simple valve adjustment usually cost about $200?

Anyone chime in.

thanks
 

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If he knows what he is doing it is a very fair price. There is alot if labor involved just to get to the shims. ZZR600 must drain coolant and move the radiator to get the valve cover off. Then after checking clearance the camshafts must come out. I paid $4 per shim which is alot less than what kawasaki charges at $14 per shim. It took me about 5-6 hours and I'm a professional. Pay the man and and be confident that your not going to hurt the engine with a tight valve.
 

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I payed $300, and I thought that was a pretty good deal. Most shops in the area charged $300-$400, so I got in on the lower end. I do most work myself, but the thought of learning how to properly adjust valve lash on my baby was too much to bear so I took it into someone who knew what they were doing.
 

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Sounds fair to me. I have done my valves myself a few times, if your mechanicaly inclined (and have the tools) or not afraid to learn, do it yourself. Getting the timing back can be tricky the first time you do it. Big probs if you get it wrong. TIP: Take zipties and tie the cam chain to the cam sprockets when you are pulling the cams to make re-timing it simplier.


Otherwise, pay the man his $'s..
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
He said I should change my CCT or cam chain tensioner? Is that necessary or just preventative?

thanks
 

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The zip tie is a good idea for newbies. Good thinking. If the cam chain wasn't making noise in the first place I would wait. It's pretty simple to replace if you have problems later.
 

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He said I should change my CCT or cam chain tensioner? Is that necessary or just preventative?

thanks
put a manual cct in. the stockers is what makes kawi's so noisy anyway
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
put a manual cct in. the stockers is what makes kawi's so noisy anyway
thanks,

I think that whats making all the noise, its the cct. But not the valves. It should be ok? Just seems to tick as rest. But not up in the revs or when i moving.
 

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i've got about 30,000 on my RR. valves never been checked. stock cct is junk, it just doesn't hold the rite tention, actually i think it's the dam cct itself that rattles lol. i have a APE, online bout $55, kawi offers one as well and is said to be easier than the APE to adjust.

just put one in, follow the instructions with it. i check mine once a riding season.
 

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i've got about 30,000 on my RR. valves never been checked. stock cct is junk, it just doesn't hold the rite tention, actually i think it's the dam cct itself that rattles lol. i have a APE, online bout $55, kawi offers one as well and is said to be easier than the APE to adjust.

just put one in, follow the instructions with it. i check mine once a riding season.

I just did my valves at 47k so your still good to go imo. When you hit around 35k+ start checking them, mine got to the point at 45k that it felt as if the bike was being held back by a slipping clutch.
 

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I just did my valves at 47k so your still good to go imo. When you hit around 35k+ start checking them, mine got to the point at 45k that it felt as if the bike was being held back by a slipping clutch.
Is it really ok to wait that long for a valve adjustment?

I know that the manual talks about 15K, I'm planning on doing it at 20K and thought I was pushing it.

No damage to just wait till sluggishness ensues?
 

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You guys who think its ok to run the bike over 20000mi without checking valve clearance are just asking for trouble. By the time it runs like crap it's too late to just readjust. I have seen many burnt valve seats at 30k and the only way to fix is spend big money replacing seats and valves. It would be cheaper to find a good used head than pay for labor and parts. Typically they go tight because the valve is setting lower in the seat. I have never seen one go loose because camshaft and contact patch wear on the bucket is almost non existant. If you care about reliability don't cheap out and hope for the best, JUST DO IT!!
 

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Is it really ok to wait that long for a valve adjustment?

I know that the manual talks about 15K, I'm planning on doing it at 20K and thought I was pushing it.

No damage to just wait till sluggishness ensues?
No it's not ok to wait till you notice something wrong but in my case when I did my valve adjustments the intake valves were still within spec at the middle of the clearance range while the my exhaust valves were all tight about .3-.4 under the lowest clearance level. I did all my exhaust valves. The valve adjustment is not that hard you just need to make sure you have the service manual, and you must have a torque wrench.
 

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No it's not ok to wait till you notice something wrong but in my case when I did my valve adjustments the intake valves were still within spec at the middle of the clearance range while the my exhaust valves were all tight about .3-.4 under the lowest clearance level. I did all my exhaust valves. The valve adjustment is not that hard you just need to make sure you have the service manual, and you must have a torque wrench.
Will you be willing to make a how-to with visuals for us, it would really help us much on making valve adjustment on our own. I never did like the service manual, too many words. I'm just waiting for a how-to to make my valve adjustment.
 

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When changing the cct to a manual how to adjust. oh ha your clutch is blown if its slipping to much. fix it so your wheels stop spinning ....
 

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is the cct on the left side of the engine?
my engine has 6k on it and its pretty noisey on the left side, it doesnt sound like valves to me
 
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