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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I contemplated writing this guide due to the projectors specifications and it being a little known product (at the moment) that not many people on the forum may own but realized that there could be vital information that people can use even though they don't own this specific brand of projector. It's a fairly simple installation (except for the hiding of wiring or re-wiring) and hopefully you can gain something out of it. So here goes.

First I'll give you some links that this thread will refer to:

- The product page : XeBrite Projectors
- The initial thread after purchase : Kawiforums


This is what the projectors and all included items look like out of the box.
The wiring shown is for ONE side only.


This next step is optional. I chose to spray paint them with high temp flat black and long story short, disassembled them to do so.


You have to remove the headlight assembly from your bike to install these.


The instructions asked that you place the headlights in the oven to separate the two sides. It told me to pre-heat to 350, and shut it off and place it in checking every minute. However, I knew that would take a while and instead heated it to 300, placed it in for one minute, and lowered the temp to 200 for 3-4 minutes. These are just MY figures and hold no responsibility if you damage your housing. Use your discretion when heating these up although the melting point of the housing IS considerably high.
Keep in mind nothing is touching the housing, so the ambient temp is 200-300 so I was safe. You're trying to soften the sealant/silicone, not melt it.


I've heard some people use screwdrivers to separate the housing, but it ends up marring the surface and damaging things. So after heating, I removed it and started to pry one corner with my hands, after it came apart (very easily) I placed tongue depressors (popsicle sticks work too) in between the areas I finished to prevent it from sticking again while working on another area.




This next step is also optional, if you choose to keep the reflectors chrome and stock, feel free but installing projectors defeat the purpose of the reflectors, so I painted these high temp flat black as well.



Next, you're going to mount the projectors into the reflectors (after placing them back in the housing). Do NOT close them up yet because you will have to adjust them before doing so.


Here is what the back will look like. The bulb can be removed via a small phillip screw and the wires shown control the halos and solenoid. The projectors fit into the original H7 socket and do NOT need to be cut or modified. A black H7 shaped ring holds the projector, a lock washer locks it, and a retaining clip locks locks all 3 together. It's a tight hold, and vertical and horizontal adjustments can still be made with the OEM reflector adjustors BUT there is a small amount of play rotationally which is why you shouldn't seal the front piece of the housing back yet. You'll need to rotate it later on. You will also need to drill an approximately 1 inch hole in the dust cap to allow the wires to fit through the included rubber grommet.




RE-WIRING IS OPTIONAL! IT DOES NOT NEED TO BE DONE FOR THIS INSTALLATION TO WORK!


The stock wiring can be hidden.. but it would be a pain in the ass to cram it all somewhere and would work, but I didn't feel like doing that. This is the stock wiring (it came with wire looms).

It's not that bad because the wires are thin, but the 4 big blocks on top of the headlight in the photo shown are the tough ones. I decided to mount them on top of the headlight so it wouldn't be exposed anywhere or hard to hide. Keep in mind the ballasts arent even in the photo, you'll need those for the HIDS.


Here's how they looked near the end, wires were cut and spliced and soldered to minimize junk and maximize space. I used electrical tape to create a "harness"


Here are the schematics for the wiring, this only applies if you want to use the setting I chose.
Low beam connection becomes 2 halos
High beam connection becomes 2 hid's
External switch becomes power for solenoid that controls flaps for the high beam.


Here is how the end product will look with all wiring.


You'll need to mount the housing without the front piece to aim your headlights. Adjust the vertical and horizontal accordingly, you may notice that your projectors are shooting a cutoff that may be slanted, so here's when you'll need to rotate them. Grasp the projector from the front and rotate it to its proper place (cut off line should match ground) and tighten the locking clip in the back to prevent any more moving.






After you're happy with your light placement, you can seal up the front piece of the headlight housing. I used the provided sealant and used the same temperatures but in reverse. It should hold tight and all tabs should close easily when the sealant is soft and pliable.


I placed my ballast here on the frame under the side covers.


End results







All in all, they're great projectors and its designed well minus the wiring. 2 other people have installed it before me and I don't think they went through the extent of re-wiring that I did and I don't think they were too bothered by it. Hope this helps someone out and even if you don't own these specific projectors, then maybe you picked up a tip or two for future projector retrofitting.
 

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hey that is great write up wow. This gives everyone interested in doing this mod a little more knowledge then just the instructions that come with this kit. Great write up though rep for that.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys, it was frustrating because of all the customizing I added to it. If you choose to leave it as is from the box, the installation should take a few hours.. thinking maybe 3-5.

My prep time took a while, painting took a week or so with the curing time, the re-wiring and placement of the wires took maybe 3 hours, taking the headlight apart took 20 minutes, aiming the light was 5 minutes, and the actual placement on the bike was about 20 minutes. Ballpark numbers.


Looks great dude!

Now come do mine! thanks
Yeah Nick, only if you have another kickass mod to barter.
These things are holding up NICE.
Painted the bolts as you can see.
 

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Yeah i installed the same kit, i just did it differently i didn't want the halos on all the time nor did i want the low beams on all the time, so i wired the halos, and the low beams in to different switches, so when i turn the bike on no lights come on, then everything is a switch away so i can turn the halo's or low beams on independently. and i used the stock high beam switch for the high beams. great work Gman nice and clean!!
 

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SUWEET! You did a really nice job cleaning up the wiring mess. Looks Factory Neat! Great job G-MAN :)!
 

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is it not possible to wire the halos on the low beam, hid on the high beam and re wire high beam flash to work the high beam flash switch?? would that involve removing the switch and re wiring it so it would be a seperate switch
 

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Discussion Starter #12
is it not possible to wire the halos on the low beam, hid on the high beam and re wire high beam flash to work the high beam flash switch?? would that involve removing the switch and re wiring it so it would be a seperate switch
I'm not sure what you mean by the high beam flash switch.. the 05/06 doesn't have one. The low beam is always running as long as the bike is on, and the high beam is activated by the high beam switch, so technically.. you only have 2 options, and you add a 3rd switch (external) for the last feature that you haven't done already.
 

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these lights look awesome! Although a bit complex to setup. What are your thoughts on a beginner trying to do this mod? I have little to no experience with electrical systems and wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
these lights look awesome! Although a bit complex to setup. What are your thoughts on a beginner trying to do this mod? I have little to no experience with electrical systems and wiring.
I wouldn't recommend it, but hey people have to start learning sometime. Grab a friend who might be familiar with electrical wiring. You don't need to be a pro, just have some decent knowledge.

Hi guys, first post.

What is the response time on the solenoid going from low to high beam?
Pretty much instant. The flap moves instantly.




Be wary of the customer support though. I don't want to say too much, but I still haven't gotten a response on a return/exchange that was started a few months ago. He seems to be avoiding my calls and PMs. Maybe theres a reason, maybe there isnt. We'll see
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The rotation of the cut off can only SLIGHTLY (1-3 degrees of play) be adjusted after putting the headlight back together (but is highly recommended that they be 100% precise before sealing the headlight back), but you still retain the vertical and horizontal adjustments.
 

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Did you get their 'super slim' ballast? And that's screwed right in to the frame? There's no concern it messes with its integrity?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Did you get their 'super slim' ballast? And that's screwed right in to the frame? There's no concern it messes with its integrity?
Yeah, I went with the slim ballasts, there's no way I would have been able to find a good spot for the large ones. I didn't screw it into the frame, I used high temp super lock fasteners from Radio Shack. They're just REALLY strong velcro pieces.
 
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