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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
How to: KLEEN Air Mod for 05-06 ZX6R on NON-CA Bike.


There has been many different How-Tos on this subject. And many threads about people getting confused on what to do. Here is mine. I just did today. I hope this helps everyone :D. The photos are being hosted by photobucket and I will keep them active forever.

First things first. This will all-in-all cost you less than $20. :)


PARTS YOU WILL NEED:

1. T-Connector (plastic or copper, whatever you like)

2. Pack of Vacuum Caps
  • (2) 5/32" for Throttle Bodies
  • (1) 3/8" for Air Box
  • (1) 1/4" for Air Box
3. 2 feet of 3/8" Fuel Line Hose

4. Zip Ties or Hose Clamps (whichever you prefer)


TOOLS YOU WILL NEED:

1. Typical Allen Keys

2. Rachet

3. 10MM Socket

4. 10MM Open-end

5. Knife


Here we go.






Step 1:
- Remove side panels, seat, and gas tank (I will not show you how, you should know how to perform this if you want to do this mod)

Step 2:
- Remove 5/8" Hose from Air box to top of Crankcase.



Step 3:
- Remove Air Box



Step 4:
- Remove KLEEN Valve and ALL associated vacuum lines
- Cap 2 ports on Throttle bodies that do now not has vacuum lines off them



Step 5:
- Place T-Connecter between the 2 ports coming off each valve and connect it with either new hose or pieces of the existing one and cut it to fit. (thats what I did)



Step 6:
- Now Connect the 3/8" hose you bought from the T-Connector to the top of the crankcase, NOTE: The hose you bought is 3/8" and the nipple off the crankcase is bigger, so just cut the old one and use it as an adapter. (AS SHOWN BELOW)

- Route the hose neatly away from the throttle bodies and around the side down the frame rail, not to interfere with anything.




IT SHOULD LOOK LIKE THIS....



Step 7:
- Underneath the air box is 2 holes...Plug both of them.
- Also the front hole that previously connected to the crankcase..plug that too with a bolt (AS SHOWN BELOW).



Step 8:
- Zip tie or hose clamp all connections. I rode around with the zip ties with no problem. You can recall at the beginning when you remove the hose coming from the crankcase to the air box that the hose clamp was not even that tight, and could be removed by finger. So, I liked zip ties here.

- Here is the final picture



Step 9:
- Put air box back on, make sure its tight on there.
- Put tank back on, dont forget to connect the harness and fuel like, and route the vent down to the bottom.
- Put the seat and side panels back on


AND WAA LAA...YOUR FINISHED!! :D

NOW TAKE IT FOR A RIDE AND SEE IF YOU FEEL A DIFFERENCE

I FELT A DIFFERENCE IN THE THROTTLE...IT FELT SMOOTHER THROUGHOUT THE POWERBAND!


ANY QUESTIONS YOU CAN PM ME HERE..



MODS: I hope you guys approve this...it took me so long, I just want to help out alot of people who have been asking about this lately. LOL
 

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AKA "White Dynamite"
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I'm not trying to be a penis, but did you do anything at all, to keep the reed valves from opening?
 

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The reed valves vent the crank case fumes to the exhaust. CC fumes instead of fresh air. No more popping either.
 

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I'm not trying to be a penis, but did you do anything at all, to keep the reed valves from opening?
Look like you're a penis after all Croom.:D

Ya, you don't block the reed valves when you do it this way. This mod. will also prevent hydrolock during a looooong wheelie...
 

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AKA "White Dynamite"
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The reed valves vent the crank case fumes to the exhaust. CC fumes instead of fresh air. No more popping either.
Why direct PCV hose to your exhaust instead of leaving it alone? The PCV hose is routed to the airbox so that the hydrocarbons from piston ring "blow by" can be burnt through the induction system. By choosing to run your PCV this way, when the reed valves are closed you have NO crankcase ventilation at all. And, by venting any type of air/gas into the exhaust, your defeating the purpose of this modification.


Look like you're a penis after all Croom.:D

Ya, you don't block the reed valves when you do it this way. This mod. will also prevent hydrolock during a looooong wheelie...
How dude? Explain it to me....... I'm a penis. :p Most bikes are subject to catastrophic engine failure from loooong wheelies due to the simple fact that oil cant return to the sump in the oil pan, because the engine is at an angle that it wasnt intended to run at (90 degrees). :dunno:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hm..I dont know how to technically explain this.

I hope Xtremewlr reads this cause his post in the past helped me alot. I did it his way.
 

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is your bike fast enough now?
 

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p.s. good write up, though the 5th pic kinda sucks. i don't have a clue what you're pointing at.
 

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AKA "White Dynamite"
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I understand what Xtremewlr was trying to do with the whole negative PCV thing. ;)

Although I'm still not sold on that particular way of doing it (no offense to Xtremewlr). :D



And yes CollinJoseph, I can also see how oil could POSSIBLY enter the airbox, but I'm still sticking with my previous statement. :lol:
 

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I understand what Xtremewlr was trying to do with the whole negative PCV thing. ;)

Although I'm still not sold on that particular way of doing it (no offense to Xtremewlr). :D



And yes CollinJoseph, I can also see how oil could POSSIBLY enter the airbox, but I'm still sticking with my previous statement. :lol:
No dude, it's absolutely true. Xtremwlr did a very good "How To" on this, but he didn't come up w/the idea. In fact, I first saw this method of the Kleen mod. on Stunt Life. The fella who did the "How To" had an 05 zx6r and he actually experienced the Hydrolock that mentioned earlier. He had pics of his throttle bodies filled w/oil to the top! I have been running this method of Kleen mod. for about two seasons. The only two differences that I have noticed:

1. I had to adjust my idle slightly (I don't remember if it was up or down).

2. A LOT less popping coming from the exhaust.

Now, I can't do two mile wheelies (Hopefully someday :)), but I can ride staggered wheelies pretty far. I've never experienced any problem, so everthing seems to be workin' fine...




















penis:D
 

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AKA "White Dynamite"
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Ok. I'm not going to argue the issue. :cool:


Happy stunting! :thumbup:
 

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Powerhungry
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i gotta change my plugs...i think i'll do this also.

good write up man.

Why direct PCV hose to your exhaust instead of leaving it alone? The PCV hose is routed to the airbox so that the hydrocarbons from piston ring "blow by" can be burnt through the induction system. By choosing to run your PCV this way, when the reed valves are closed you have NO crankcase ventilation at all. And, by venting any type of air/gas into the exhaust, your defeating the purpose of this modification.




How dude? Explain it to me....... I'm a penis. :p Most bikes are subject to catastrophic engine failure from loooong wheelies due to the simple fact that oil cant return to the sump in the oil pan, because the engine is at an angle that it wasnt intended to run at (90 degrees). :dunno:
actually, im wondering the same thing. why not just leave the CC vent alone. and just cap off the T at the valves.

any reason/problems in doing that?

im a bit concerned..about CC pressure/fumes building up. asking for problems...

im in the process of doing this now..hopefully someone chimes in and tells me yay or nay...
 

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i gotta change my plugs...i think i'll do this also.

good write up man.


actually, im wondering the same thing. why not just leave the CC vent alone. and just cap off the T at the valves.

any reason/problems in doing that?

im a bit concerned..about CC pressure/fumes building up. asking for problems...

im in the process of doing this now..hopefully someone chimes in and tells me yay or nay...
Here ya go. Read the first paragraph of the first post...

http://www.kawiforums.com/showthread.php?t=69495&highlight=kleen+mod
 
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