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Mods u should prolly sticky this...

Its a speedfreakinc.com article i did in association with some other riders that are AMAZING. check it out...



well here im gonna post it.

Anatomy of a Stunt Bike
Published: November 7, 2006
By: Brittany Morrow

Please Remember that learning to stunt your sport bike is dangerous and precautions should be taken. In no way is this article intending to endorse illegal riding. And for the sake of everyone’s viewing pleasure, please wear PROTECTIVE GEAR (www.rushdeal.com). Blood and guts are not supposed to be a part of the show. There are many businesses out there that support the hardcore stunt rider, and investing in your own body is just as important as investing in your stunt bike. With that said, let us introduce the 13 stunters who made this article a true inside look into the makings of a stunt bike. For more information on each individual, click on the links provided to check out their personal and team websites. Thanks to all the guys who put in their two cents.

Ernie Vigil, a.k.a. EDUB, Team Outermost
(www.teamoutermost.com) Albuquerque, New Mexico.

Nick Brocha, a.k.a. NICK APEX, Apex Films
(www.apexfilms.com) Las Vegas, Nevada.

Frank Gatto, a.k.a. VERTICAL FRANK, Vertical Outlaws
(www.verticaloutlaws.com) Auburn, Maine

Brendon McQuaid, a.k.a. IMR Merlin, Team IMR
(www.IMRStunts.com) Manchester, New Hampshire.

Scott Fraser, a.k.a. FRASER FLAVE, Exclusive Freestyle Riderz
(www.XFR03.com) Holden, Massachusetts

Ryan Suchanek, a.k.a. RYAN S, Vertical Michief Crew
(www.verticalmischief.com) Milton, Wisconsin.

Steve Healey, a.k.a. Evil Kastevil, TEAM SHOCKER
(www.myspace.com/42793921) Edgewood, Columbia.

Josh Vetter, a.k.a. VETTER, Sick Innovations
(www.myspace.com/joshvetter) Fort Wayne, Indiana.

Robert Aragon a.k.a. CRASH, Justin Griffith a.k.a. BEAST, and Jason Garcia,
a.k.a. J-UNIT, Albuquerque Outlawz (www.myspace.com/albuquerqueoutlawz)

Tim Lankins, a.k.a. QWIK GIXXER, solo rider
(www.myspace.com/109090917) Boise, Idaho

Doug Craig, a.k.a. Dougie Fresh, solo rider
(www.myspace.com/42587946) Shorewood, Illinois.


Many components go into the modification of a sport bike into a stunt bike. Personal style and ability are key factors when choosing what modifications to perform on a bike in order to make it a wheelie machine. We’ve interviewed 13 stunt riders, ranging from newly-born one-wheel wizard to old school stunna, and we have the inside scoop on what goes into making a bike ready for those amazing tricks we all love to watch.

The single most controversial subject about a stunt bike today is whether to ride full faring or streetfighter. These terms basically refer to the way the bike looks to the unknowing passerby, but much more goes into the decision on which style to choose than whether or not you want a pretty bike. Many riders agree that the industry is changing as you sit here reading, with most mainstream sponsors leaning towards a clean look. Defining the differences between the two styles and choosing which is right for you as a stunter will affect the way you ride in many ways. When it comes down to the nitty gritty, it’s all about personal preference.

A streetfighter bike is a naked sport bike; all fairings are removed, the windscreen is removed, and the clip-ons are usually replaced with handlebars found on dirt bikes. For most beginners, a streetfighter bike is usually much more comfortable to learn on than a stock full faring sport bike. Josh mentions that it is easier to ride because it allows you to see in front of your bike when there are no upper fairings to block the view. Riding streetfighter also enables the rider with more room to do certain tricks at the front of the bike. Riders call it “pulling through” when you can bring your legs in front of you between your arms and over the handlebars, which is required for several tricks. Pulling through on a streetfighter bike is easier because there is more room to do so; no windscreen and motocross handlebars allow for easier maneuvering. Scott and Jason agree that motocross bars are more comfortable to ride with because they also make you sit up straighter and therefore make the bike more stable. Steve thinks a streetfighter bike simply looks better, and Doug believes that you might as well strip the fairings off and sell them while they are in good shape because you are going to need the money eventually, even if it’s just for beer.

Clean, full faring bikes are preferred by most sponsors and mainstream magazines. Clean stunt bikes can be mistaken for a stock sport bike newly rolled off the showroom floor. Some stunters like their bikes to look as stock as possible, showing people that they are riding a sport bike and not a moped. Riding clean includes using traditional clip-ons rather than converting to motocross handlebars. Most riders will run with 0 degree clip-ons, which is as close to stock as a modified set would look and feel like. A few ride with their clip-ons flipped and turned out, meaning the right clip-on is on the left, and the left clip-on is on the right. This will slightly mimic motocross handlebars without looking modified, and it allows for more room on pull-throughs. The position your hands are in when riding with flipped and turned out clip-ons is uncomfortable for some, so again, it comes down to personal preference. Aftermarket clip-ons are usually made of billet aluminum and are much stronger, allowing for more tricks utilizing the triple tree as a stabilizing point, as well as hanging your entire body weight from them if necessary.

Riding clean also includes keeping all the fairings on your sport bike. Frank, Justin, Brendon, Ryan and Ernie all ride full faring. Four out of five of these riders are sponsored by more than four companies. Style plays a large part in standing out amongst other riders and gaining fans, especially now that there are so many stunters out there competing for attention. With full fairings you are able to show off your bike in a way that streetfighter just doesn’t allow. With full front fairings it is easier to recognize the type and model of bike you are riding, and most agree that a sport bike should look like a sport bike. Ernie refers to it as real estate; you can show off a custom paint job and sponsor’s stickers at the same time. Nick has an interesting way to ride both clean and streetfighter; he practices with a naked bike and for shows, competitions, and video, he puts on his fairings. This keeps everyone happy, including the rider himself. Ryan, Frank and Brendon all agree that there is nothing prettier than a stunt bike that looks like it just came from the dealership, and up on one wheel it becomes a thing of beauty.

A more technical area of modifying a sport bike into a stunt bike is choosing sprocket size. Changing the sprocket size, or commonly referred to as “gearing” your bike, changes the speed of the counter shaft revolution and the chain. This helps determine how much engine brake you have in each gear, how quickly you reach rev limiter, the top speed of your bike, and how many revolutions per second your bike will idle at. The smaller you go on the front sprocket, the touchier the throttle will be, and more strain will be put on the chain and output shaft. Adding teeth to the rear sprocket makes the power smoother and less and snappy, allows the bike to never stall in idle, and reduces top speed.

New stunters should change gearing slowly, as the bike performs differently with every sprocket modification. Brendon suggests subtracting one tooth from the front sprocket and adding five teeth to the rear sprocket until balance point is achieved. For slower wheelies and more technical tricks, most riders suggest subtracting one or two teeth from the front sprocket and adding 10 to 20 teeth onto the rear. Ernie, Ryan and Nick all run stock front sprockets, as they have all heard how much strain a smaller front sprocket puts on the transmission. If you want to ride your bike on the highway and do faster wheelies, add no more than 10 teeth to your rear sprocket, as any higher gearing would greatly reduce your ability to ride faster than 50 mph. Most professional stunters agree that anywhere between a 53 and a 65 tooth rear sprocket is adequate for slow technical wheelies and circles, although a few have tried to stay as close to stock gearing as possible. Again, personal comfort plays a large part in choosing the gearing of your bike, and it is possible to stunt with stock sprockets, most just prefer not to.

Tank smashing is a less technical modification when building a stunt bike, but is required to do most tank tricks. There is a certain art behind making a comfortable and good looking seat for yourself on the usually rounded gas tank you find on any stock sport bike. Frank swears by his teammate Vertical Chris’s tank smashing ability, and Nick claims that Ernie is the King when it comes to the sacred art of hammering out a perfect seat. Most suggest using a rubber mallet to avoid puncturing the tank, although some use a small body hammer, their fists, and even their feet by jumping on the tank to begin the denting process. You will need to start from the inside of the tank, meaning begin at the opening for the gas and work your way out towards the edge of the tank. Be patient to avoid expensive mistakes, as most punctures can be JB welded but will also require body filler and a new coat of paint if you want the bike to look decent. Some do this even if they do not puncture the tank, as it makes the work look even smother and more professional. A good tank smashing looks and feels as if the bike was made for someone to sit there by the manufacturer itself. Remember to make sure there is room for the gas to flow into the tank after you are finished or you will have an expensive mess and soggy feet.

Once the tank is dented in to your liking, you will need some type of grip material to line the inside of the new seat. Without some type of grip tape, your butt will slip right off the smooth surface and make your tank tricks look and feel sloppy. Most choose to use skateboard grip tape as it is inexpensive and easy to find. However, Ernie suggests finding an alternative material, as skateboard grip tape wears through jeans very easily, and even his underwear has holes in it from practicing his tank tricks. Scott and Nick both suggest the brand TechSpec for non-slip material and Josh mentions that personal watercraft foot grip works well and doesn’t wear holes in your pants. If that doesn’t work, Nick also suggests not washing your jeans, as the grime will keep your butt stuck to the tank, and it give a good excuse for being lazy. Whatever you choose, it is essential to find a way to stick to the tank for some very cool visuals and clean tricks.

Tire pressure is a long-standing secret held by many stunters over the years. When beginners are learning to do slower wheelies, they usually drop air pressure immensely in the rear tire to allow for more surface area to balance on. Rear tires can look almost flat in some pictures when stunters are not comfortable with the factory suggested psi. Most agree that once you are more comfortable on the rear wheel, it is important to keep the air pressure higher than lower, as the bike will do what you want it to best when the tires are as close to full as possible. Ernie feels as if his bike is hard to control when there is a lot of slop in the rear tire; proving why he runs 35 psi in both the front and rear tire. Professionals will tell you that with more skill comes higher tire pressure. When learning, a flat platform is comfortable and keeps the bike as upright as possible. For more technical, twitchy moves, such as circles, low tire pressure just won’t cut it. This is probably one of the most personal choices when it comes to stunt bike modifications, as professionals have been known to run anywhere from 18 to 35 psi. The range is wide and so are the skill levels, and it all comes down to what you are comfortable with as a rider.

Cages are considered a cheap form of insurance for stunters, especially when learning how to do new tricks. Most riders will agree that cages are the greatest invention in stunt bike modification, period. A good cage will protect the most vital component of your bike: your engine. Secondary uses are faring protection and foot rests, as demonstrated by Jason quite frequently. The most popular brands with the professional stunters are Freestyle Ingenuity and Racing 905, although Nick swears by his Tygershark cage. Scott and Ernie ride with F.I. cages and Ernie loves how easily his mounts and comes apart, making it easy to work on his bike. Frank, Brendon, Ryan, and Robert all ride with racing 905 cages and agree that they are a great investment if you don’t get yours for free. Racing 905 and F.I. are both major sponsors to professional stunters. Although it does not contribute to the stock look of the bike, it pays off in the end to protect your bike’s vital organs. Frame sliders just won’t do the job properly.

Another way to protect your investment is with a 12 bar, or also commonly referred to as a 12 o’clock bar or a wheelie bar. When learning how to wheelie, especially slower wheelies in parking lots, a little too much throttle could send you backwards too far and crack your tail or even shear off your entire sub frame. Most of the time, this would also result in looping the wheelie. With a 12 bar that mounts to your sub frame and protects your tail, you might be able to save the maneuver when the 12 bar catches the ground, while keeping your tail end intact at the same time. Even advanced riders will use wheelie bars to protect their bikes from damage when attempting to wheelie in the 12 o’clock position.

For professionals, wheelie bars add many tricks to the list of show-stopping visuals. With a flat 12 bar, the bike can be stationary or moving and balance in the 12 o’clock position, allowing the rider to do aerial tricks, hang from the clip-ons, and even do burnouts on one wheel while parked in the 12 o’clock position. They also spark when they scrape the asphalt, which rates high on the crowd pleasing scale. A round wheelie bar has its own advantages, although it doesn’t allow for as many tricks. Round 12 bars hide under the tail better, allowing the bike to look more stock. They will also never catch the ground crooked and send your wheelie to the left or right almost instantly, which square 12 bars will do. Some riders simply cut their tails and ride without a 12 bar, completely removing the ability to scrape the ground during a wheelie at all. Most agree that square 12 bars are the most versatile and allow for the most appealing tricks, but again, style plays a key part in stunting nowadays and it has been said that wheelie bars are only for guys who can’t get any tail. With that said we’ll give the argument back to the case of personal preference and leave it at that.

The last modification most professionals agree you cannot ignore is the handbrake. It is a handheld version of the rear brake added onto the left clip-on or handlebar. Handbrakes are used for control during advanced circle wheelies, tank tricks, and anything else that requires you to leave the rear brake on the right set unattended. Frank and Ryan still prefer to use the natural engine brake over the handbrake, although they both have handbrakes on their bikes. Ernie and Nick both run Full Throttle handbrakes and swear by it. They report no problems with it and suggest spending the money is worth not having any complications or problems. Most professionals would agree that to step up to the plate, a handbrake is necessary, but only for the most advanced and highly technical stunting.

To sum it all up, there are many modifications that go into turning a stock sport bike into a stunt bike. Most revolve around technical issues that can’t be avoided. Much room is left for personal preference in every aspect, and the number of stunt mod brands out there allows for versatility and variety when making your choices. When it comes to style, whether you are riding highway wheelies or parking lot highchair circles, each rider has a decision to make regarding how he (or she) wants his bike to look, feel, react, and perform. Not everyone agrees on a universal way of building the perfect stunt bike, but each individual has the ability to make his bike perfect for him. Perhaps in the near future, as stunting becomes more popular, factories will begin making stunt-ready bikes. As far as cookie cutter stunt bikes go, let’s hope they just leave it to the ones who have been perfecting the art of stunt bike modification for years: the riders themselves.

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148 Posts
Good article. I ride with Team Outermost all the time and I am in Albuquerque Outlawz myself. I have seen some of your stuff vett you are damn good! Mad props bro, keep it up.

17,507 Posts
i always thought you set up stunt bikes by throwing them on the ground 800 times.

770 Posts
set them down.
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