HOW-TO tune up your ZX6R
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and search for topics before posting. it gets really repetative around here.A quick tune up for your ZX6R
this will help you change the oil and the spark plugs and cleaning the air and fuel filter. what you need is the following:
- kawasaki tool kit
- oil filter - k&n(KN-303) 1 $6-$15 depends on where you buy
- 5 quarts of oil any 10w40 roughly $2 each
- Funnel
- oil catch pan
- oil filter tang
- spark plugs - NGK(CR9E(standard), CR9EVX(platinum) 4 for $12
- fuel filter k&n(81-0221)
- air filter k&n(KA-6098)
many manufacturers make air, fuel,oil filters, and plugs for the kawasaki, however here you will read and get only the part numbers of the parts that i use. the following is my practice only. its your bike if you break it you cant hold me responsible. 2 books of recommended reading are the repair manual and zen and the art of motorcycle maintenance
oil change
1. first ride your bike for about 10 minutes so the oil is HOT and thin.
2. remove the oil plug and let it drain into the pan for about 10 minutes for all the oil to run out.
3. remove the left side fairing to unscrew the oil filter. use the tang to remove the filter and drain it into the pan
4. get out the new oil filter, stick your finger in some new oil and put it around the ring of the filter, this will soften the ring to create a better seal so the bike will not leak oil and then screw on the oil filter. reconnect your fairing.
5. next put the oil pan plug back in the pan. open the oil cap and put in your oil.
see how easy that was, i use only 10w40 oil and i change my oil every 1000 miles and my filter every 3000 miles. you can use synthetic oil if you wish to pay that much, but oil is oil if you change it every 1000 miles everything will be fine. as for the filter, i only use k&n filters.
next we are going to change the spark plugs, air filter and the fuel filter. that may seem overwhelming, but be patient and take your time. it is a very simple process. the spark plugs air filter and the fuel system all function together, so be ready.
1. first thing you need to do is remove the fuel tank. you have to remove the seats first and 4 bolts. make sure you TURN OFF THE PETCOCK otherwise you will have a mess of gas all over the place. disconnect the hose from the petcock to the fuel filter. then you can pull the tank up off the bike.
2. remove the fuel filter disconnect the hose to the fuel pump and remove it from the rubber sleeve that holds it in. replace the old filter with the new, just connect it to the fuel pump for now.
3. you see the big black box, that is your air box. disconnect the hose and the 7 bolts. this will enable you to lift off the top of the box. you will see your air filter, remove it and if you have a shop vac type vaccum use this to clean it, if you want to get thorough you can clean the filter with a high pressure water hose.
4.to get to the plugs you need to remove the bottom part of the airbox this is held on with 2 bolts, remove them, and lift the rest of the box out to reveal the plugs.
5.to make it more easy remove the air intakes, you dont have to but you can. remove the plug caps 1 at a time, pop them off. replace the old plug with the new and then put the plug cap back on. go left from right to make it simple.
6.put the bottom of the airbox back onto the engine put in your new or freshly cleaned air filter back in, make sure you put the filter side down and reconnect your air intakes if you took them off. put the top back onto the airbox and reconnect the hose.
7.finally we have to put the fuel tank back on. before bolting it on reconnect the hose from the new fuel filter to the petcock. then bolt the tank back on.
8. moment of truth, if you did everything accordingly your bike should fire right up, of course you will have to turn your fuel back on with the petcock.
you have just successfully performed pretty much a full tune up that your bike shop would charge you $200 for. the appreciation you have for your bike is priceless. your bike will treat you even better as well. the whole process will take you about 2 hours if you are not familiar with your bike, 1 if you are mechanically inclined. GOOD LUCK!
some references:
http://www.knfilters.com/
http://www.haynes.com/na401.html#anchor1225965
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/t...013763?v=glance&s=books&vi=reader#reader-link
modern man
eco system destroyer
this will help you change the oil and the spark plugs and cleaning the air and fuel filter. what you need is the following:
- kawasaki tool kit
- oil filter - k&n(KN-303) 1 $6-$15 depends on where you buy
- 5 quarts of oil any 10w40 roughly $2 each
- Funnel
- oil catch pan
- oil filter tang
- spark plugs - NGK(CR9E(standard), CR9EVX(platinum) 4 for $12
- fuel filter k&n(81-0221)
- air filter k&n(KA-6098)
many manufacturers make air, fuel,oil filters, and plugs for the kawasaki, however here you will read and get only the part numbers of the parts that i use. the following is my practice only. its your bike if you break it you cant hold me responsible. 2 books of recommended reading are the repair manual and zen and the art of motorcycle maintenance
oil change
1. first ride your bike for about 10 minutes so the oil is HOT and thin.
2. remove the oil plug and let it drain into the pan for about 10 minutes for all the oil to run out.
3. remove the left side fairing to unscrew the oil filter. use the tang to remove the filter and drain it into the pan
4. get out the new oil filter, stick your finger in some new oil and put it around the ring of the filter, this will soften the ring to create a better seal so the bike will not leak oil and then screw on the oil filter. reconnect your fairing.
5. next put the oil pan plug back in the pan. open the oil cap and put in your oil.
see how easy that was, i use only 10w40 oil and i change my oil every 1000 miles and my filter every 3000 miles. you can use synthetic oil if you wish to pay that much, but oil is oil if you change it every 1000 miles everything will be fine. as for the filter, i only use k&n filters.
next we are going to change the spark plugs, air filter and the fuel filter. that may seem overwhelming, but be patient and take your time. it is a very simple process. the spark plugs air filter and the fuel system all function together, so be ready.
1. first thing you need to do is remove the fuel tank. you have to remove the seats first and 4 bolts. make sure you TURN OFF THE PETCOCK otherwise you will have a mess of gas all over the place. disconnect the hose from the petcock to the fuel filter. then you can pull the tank up off the bike.
2. remove the fuel filter disconnect the hose to the fuel pump and remove it from the rubber sleeve that holds it in. replace the old filter with the new, just connect it to the fuel pump for now.
3. you see the big black box, that is your air box. disconnect the hose and the 7 bolts. this will enable you to lift off the top of the box. you will see your air filter, remove it and if you have a shop vac type vaccum use this to clean it, if you want to get thorough you can clean the filter with a high pressure water hose.
4.to get to the plugs you need to remove the bottom part of the airbox this is held on with 2 bolts, remove them, and lift the rest of the box out to reveal the plugs.
5.to make it more easy remove the air intakes, you dont have to but you can. remove the plug caps 1 at a time, pop them off. replace the old plug with the new and then put the plug cap back on. go left from right to make it simple.
6.put the bottom of the airbox back onto the engine put in your new or freshly cleaned air filter back in, make sure you put the filter side down and reconnect your air intakes if you took them off. put the top back onto the airbox and reconnect the hose.
7.finally we have to put the fuel tank back on. before bolting it on reconnect the hose from the new fuel filter to the petcock. then bolt the tank back on.
8. moment of truth, if you did everything accordingly your bike should fire right up, of course you will have to turn your fuel back on with the petcock.
you have just successfully performed pretty much a full tune up that your bike shop would charge you $200 for. the appreciation you have for your bike is priceless. your bike will treat you even better as well. the whole process will take you about 2 hours if you are not familiar with your bike, 1 if you are mechanically inclined. GOOD LUCK!
some references:
http://www.knfilters.com/
http://www.haynes.com/na401.html#anchor1225965
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/t...013763?v=glance&s=books&vi=reader#reader-link
modern man
eco system destroyer
You do realize that it is quite possible that you will get more dirt into your engine when changing the oil than letting it go more than 1000 miles. Plus, most oils don't need to be changed that often. One more thing, fill up your new oil filter with oil before you screw it on so that your bike doesn't have to take the time at start up to fill up the filter.
Life is short, but sweet for certain...
Life is short, but sweet for certain...
1. you must be a sucker to believe all the hype about K&N, cause well when it comes to bikes, they aren't worth squat
2. if you change the oil, change the filter
3. it doesn't take 10 minutes to heat up oil, and it doesn't take 10 minutes to watch it drain.
4. thanks for the infomercial
2. if you change the oil, change the filter
3. it doesn't take 10 minutes to heat up oil, and it doesn't take 10 minutes to watch it drain.
4. thanks for the infomercial
ok i read the faq and i thought i could do it better, so i did it. stated in my article was also the fact that I use k&n, i also made note that there are multiple vendors for all of these filters.
and on the repetitive ness of changing the oil, this is my practice and stated as such.
before flaming, utilize a little comprehension and read what was written. it was unbiased and very informative.
for the positive feedback thanks.
modern man
eco system destroyer
and on the repetitive ness of changing the oil, this is my practice and stated as such.
before flaming, utilize a little comprehension and read what was written. it was unbiased and very informative.
for the positive feedback thanks.
modern man
eco system destroyer
Just a quick note, I didn't read every last line in the post, because, well that takes a damn long time to try to read every last post, so if I missed it, sorry. I don't know how most filters on the bikes are, but mine is mounted horizontally, not vertically, so if you fill it up, you better be able to screw a filter full of oil on in less than a second or you will have oil everywhere. If your filters are vertically mounted, forget this note! You should at least oil the threads and the gasket.
-Cops want a hot pursuit, so entertain them! -Shadee
-Cops want a hot pursuit, so entertain them! -Shadee
I didn't mean to fill the filter up all the way to the top, then it would obviously spill all over hell. I have an 01 6R and mine is also horizontally. Think of it this way, the more oil in the filter when you screw it on, the less time it take your bike to fill it up at start up so your lubrication system is performing its best in a quicker amount of time.
Life is short, but sweet for certain...
Life is short, but sweet for certain...
Kee-rist, it takes me less time to change oil and plugs than it would've to read that first post. Info is good but come on. Beyond that, what good could it possibly do to fill a horizontal oil filter, at all, with oil before you screw it in? Is gravity not going to drain it back into the pan before you start the bike anyway? Color me baffled.
I had this problem too. "Now how the heck do I get these plugs out?" Here's my solution: Pull out the coil, loosen the plug all the way, stick the coil back on top of the plug and pull the coil and the plug out as one. I refuse to pay the shop to do anything that I can do myself.
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Thanks man. That was pretty imformative.
My 2 cents. I no longer remove the fairings to do oil changes. Before I pull the filter I take a piece of cardboard and fold it into a V. The V then goes under the filter. When you pull the filter the oil will run into the cardboard, and into a pan placed in front of the bike.
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4,235 Posts
Motorcycle oil is better for your clutch then car oil, plus on older bikes they will shift better with synthetic oil. CR9EK's will add a little power with their extra electrode.
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