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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Searched the forums and couldnt find anything. Thought it would be better as a general topic but here it goes

07 zzr600. The fuel cap always seems to be tight getting the key in and takes some real carressing to get it to pop the cap open. Well I havent had to fuel up in like 2 weeks (hardly anytime to ride, plus the weather on the weekends). I go out last night and got maybe 10-15 miles of fuel left(im on reserve). Get to the gas station and the key wont go in. After bending BOTH of my keys(luckily one not as bad as the other), I finally decide to go home and park it. Its got that white corrosion all in it and after oiling it and playing with it, i can only get the key in 3/4 of the way.


Is that something covered under warranty or are they going to bullshit me on that one? Plus do the dealer have the key blanks. I need to get one key atleast. Also does anyone run an aftermarket cap. My worry is when I take it places, it seems like itd be easy to take off and all i can picture is someone pouring coke in the tank and gumming it up.


I hate this, I already know how the story goes...2 weeks for parts, 2 more if they have to install it.
 

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I don't have your bike, but I have a Pro-Tech racing keyless gas cap.

Shoot some WD-40 into the lock and let it sit. Push down on the cap when turning the key. Takes pressure off the latch.

I believe if you give the dealership the key code, they can get a key already cut. Code is on the helmet lock, if you have one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Wont do WD40, When it dries, any bit of dirt is going to stick in there. I was talking to a buddy and i think i can just pull the allen heads off the top and then just keep PB Blasting it til i can free up the mechanism. It just sucks.


It took the dealership 2 weeks to get a stator cover and that was IN STOCK, im not going to wait for them to make a key. just hopefully they will have a blank.

How do you like your keyless gas cap...I like the look of them, just nervous about in public.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
called dealership.


Corrosion is not warranty (despite being garage kept)

You cannot get the entire cap off by undoing the allen heads (must unlock cap before taking off entire base

They do not stock key blanks, nor do they cut them.

Should I have anymore problems, they do not have likely solution.



Now why cant I get a job with absolutly no responsibility in pleasing a customer?
 

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Powerhungry
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use the wd-40, if it works..who cares what it does.

or pb blaster. anything that will eat the rust. just oil probably wont do it.

ive used some shitty, thin chain wax. worthless for a chain, but seems to work good in the tumbler.

i know this happens alot...but my bike is outside..in the rain, ive ridden in the rain, for hrs at a time. and the key still turns easy, in the ignition, aswell as the fuel cap.
i have sprayed it a few times tho, BEFORE after reading a few of these threads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
use the wd-40, if it works..who cares what it does.

or pb blaster. anything that will eat the rust. just oil probably wont do it.

ive used some shitty, thin chain wax. worthless for a chain, but seems to work good in the tumbler.

i know this happens alot...but my bike is outside..in the rain, ive ridden in the rain, for hrs at a time. and the key still turns easy, in the ignition, aswell as the fuel cap.
i have sprayed it a few times tho, BEFORE after reading a few of these threads.

yeah its going to be a planned maintenence item for me. The ignition key has always been flawless, never a hiccup or anything. At the gas station, all they had was oil...just as the situation goes on and on it gets worse....
 

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Oh man! This EXACT thing happened to me last nite too! I got all geared up, ready for a little night on the town. My bike was already in reserve, so I stopped by the gas station to fuel up... My gas cap lock always needed a lot of jiggling and finessing to get it open (bought my bike used, it was like that since I got it), but last nite it just wouldnt budge. I was freaking out!

I turned the key both ways, jiggling and almost forcing it, but I noticed the key was bending a bit, so I said screw it. I even paid $5 for a can of WD-40 at the gas station to try...didnt seem to work. Luckily I wasnt far from home, so I brought the bike home and parked it. What a piss off.

I tried it again last nite, and the damn thing just popped open! I guess the WD-40 sat for a while and "fixed" the lock...but still, the gas cap is SKETCHY. Dont trust it at all.

And damn...I didnt realize you cant remove the gas cap with the allen head bolts! What happens if my lock gets stuck permanently? Do I drill out the lock?!

I dunno why, but that gas cap lock is a real peice of shit...especially for a bike thats not even 2 years old....
 

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Oh man! This EXACT thing happened to me last nite too! I got all geared up, ready for a little night on the town. My bike was already in reserve, so I stopped by the gas station to fuel up... My gas cap lock always needed a lot of jiggling and finessing to get it open (bought my bike used, it was like that since I got it), but last nite it just wouldnt budge. I was freaking out!

I turned the key both ways, jiggling and almost forcing it, but I noticed the key was bending a bit, so I said screw it. I even paid $5 for a can of WD-40 at the gas station to try...didnt seem to work. Luckily I wasnt far from home, so I brought the bike home and parked it. What a piss off.

I tried it again last nite, and the damn thing just popped open! I guess the WD-40 sat for a while and "fixed" the lock...but still, the gas cap is SKETCHY. Dont trust it at all.

And damn...I didnt realize you cant remove the gas cap with the allen head bolts! What happens if my lock gets stuck permanently? Do I drill out the lock?!

I dunno why, but that gas cap lock is a real peice of shit...especially for a bike thats not even 2 years old....
my bike was just recovered from a theft, and they figured out how to get it to open without the key. About a 3/8" drill bit to the lock.
 

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Use some ty pe of lube to get it to work right. Not wd40 as stated but there are hundreds of other lubes out there. I used some of my breakfree that I oil my guns with to get my ignition key to work right on my roadliner and my girls zzr600

Also I would try a different dealer IMHO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well, Tried the PB blaster, Tried the WD40, which both of those helped to free up the little slides in the key hole. But still wont budge. Tried taking two screw drivers to either side to try and force it to turn with out bending the key. Dont know what else to do. I went out and bought 4 more keys, only one place in this entire town has kawi blanks. So im just going to bend every freaking key up...
 

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Don't bend up your keys try CLR. It's for calcium lime and rust. I'm sure you've seen the commercial. I've got a bad habit of leaving my lid up on my gas cap so I've got similar situation as yours. Don't dilute the stuff just get some in there and let the magic happen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
WEll had to to take it to the dealership. They called yesterday and said it was ready. Put a new cap on there and so Ill have a new key with it as well....Havent gotten how much is going to cost me but will find out as soon as they wake up. Im expecting anywhere from 75-500....But hey when you ask for a quote and they never call......what do you expect


Also asked 3 times to put, DRAIN AND CLEAN FUEL TANK, and the girl could not stop saying, oh itll be fine, the WD40 never got into the tank. Man oh Man can I not wait for this one.......

Being a service manager for a tractor dealership, I am fully prepared to break bad.
 

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Searched the forums and couldnt find anything. Thought it would be better as a general topic but here it goes

07 zzr600. The fuel cap always seems to be tight getting the key in and takes some real carressing to get it to pop the cap open. Well I havent had to fuel up in like 2 weeks (hardly anytime to ride, plus the weather on the weekends). I go out last night and got maybe 10-15 miles of fuel left(im on reserve). Get to the gas station and the key wont go in. After bending BOTH of my keys(luckily one not as bad as the other), I finally decide to go home and park it. Its got that white corrosion all in it and after oiling it and playing with it, i can only get the key in 3/4 of the way.


Is that something covered under warranty or are they going to bullshit me on that one? Plus do the dealer have the key blanks. I need to get one key atleast. Also does anyone run an aftermarket cap. My worry is when I take it places, it seems like itd be easy to take off and all i can picture is someone pouring coke in the tank and gumming it up.


I hate this, I already know how the story goes...2 weeks for parts, 2 more if they have to install it.
There is a good fix for this. I agree, they do tend to corrode, but you can prevent it! You may need to spray in lube through the keyhole for a day or so before you can coax it open, if it has gotten bad... Then take two Phillips screws off the back and you can get to the area to grease. But, BEFORE you take the two screws off, put a towel or something over the tank opening--there are 6 tiny springs (my bike only has 5--haha) that keep the gasket pressure on the filler opening, and you don't want them to fall into the tank.

At the bottom of the key cylinder there are two little stubs--lube around them. In the lower half there is a chamber you can put grease in which will leak out over time, lubricating the moving parts, including the wedges that lock the tank. If you do this once a year you will be golden. My lock was bad enough to bend the key without opening, and now it opens easier than it did from the factory.
 

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First off, I should mention I'm a locksmith.

Second, STOP SPRAYING LIQUID ANYTHING INTO LOCKS! This drives locksmiths nuts.
All it does is collect road grime, dirt, and crud and keeps the lock from functioning like it should. Also, some of the spray lubricants have chemicals in them that eat o-rings, and other seals in the cap. Then you run into vacuum problems in the tank because the vent is clogged up with deteriorated o-ring trash.

This in itself is why so many of these things quit working right.

Locks don't really need any lubrication if they are pinned right. At most a tiny bit of graphite dust will do it.
The reason gas caps stick has nothing to do with lubrication of the internals of the lock, and everything to do with the lousy latches on the bottom of the cap. Most can be fixed with a jewelers file to deburr or fine fit the latch.

As for your issue, you will probably need a locksmith to open it. Shouldn't be a problem to get it open with the right tools.
I'd have him pull the plug and clean out all that sludge that's in it.
 

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Thread from 2008 guys.
 

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This is an OLD thread, but I think potentially an ongoing problem, so...

There is a good fix for this. They do tend to corrode, since the grease is dissolved by gasoline splash from below, but you can control it! You may need to spray in lube through the keyhole for a day or so before you can coax it open, if it has gotten bad (patience!)... Then take two Phillips screws off the back and you can get to the area to grease. But, BEFORE you take the two screws off, put a towel or something over the tank opening--there are 6 tiny springs that keep the gasket pressure on the filler opening, and you don't want them to fall into the tank.

At the bottom of the key cylinder (top half) there are two little stubs--lube around that lower cylinder end. In the lower half there is a chamber you can put grease, in which will leak out over time, lubricating the moving parts, including the two wedges that lock the cap.

The lower half will also come apart for more access to lubrication, but it's not really necessary, so don't let it come apart unless you are willing to put some more small parts back in place. Just taking off those two screws and greasing once a year you will be sufficient. My lock was bad enough to bend the key without opening it, and now it opens easier than it did from the factory.

I bought a non-locking gas cap (similar to this one: [ame]http://www.amazon.com/Fuel-Kawasaki-Z1000-Zzr600-Black/dp/B00M51RFF0[/ame] ), but ended up putting my now-working factory cap back on, since a well-lubricated locking cap is easier to use than a screw-on cap...
 

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Buy a small dispenser of Graphite off the net it costs peanuts, for lock lubrication, don't use WD40 or liquid lubricants, muck sticks to it and glues it up.
 
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