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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I have $1400 to spend and I can break it down into two categories:
(on a 2003 RC51)

1) Performance & other:
- SS/Titanium 2 into 1 Jardine pipe (saves 12 lbs.) $615
- Power commander from Dan Kyle aka "the man" $315
- Sato rear sets $475

TOTAL $1405

2) Suspension
- Fork revalve & new springs $430
- Ohlins rear shock $1000

TOTAL $1430

The question once again comes down to suspension vs. performance. I'm thinking that the more weight you shave off a bike the better it will perform (& 12 lbs off the stock exhaust is great). I have already set the correct sag, rebound, damping, etc. and I am relatively happy with the suspension (on street) & I have not ridden a proprely set up Ohlins bike, so I don't know what an unbelievable suspension feels like. I will be riding mostly street but will be hitting a number of tracks this year, so I figure both are good, but which one is best....?

What is your opinion on which one is the better to go with.... or suggest a compromise.
 

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do you have any performanceupgrades yet? if you did i'd say spend it on the suspension
if not....hell go with the performance and try set up the stock suspension really good..or you could lose the rear sets and use that money to get your forks revalved...*gasp!! do it!!!
 

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option #1 minus the rear sets, but add the fork upgrade for track;)
 

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Since you say you're going to the track and being a former 51 and soon to be again owner, here goes with my option #2 vote (with some alterations)...

OK, here goes...

1. unless you weigh 150-160 lbs (as you may be) fully geared up, the suspension is inadequate for maximum performance, it SOOOOO benefits from a revalve and respring for your ideal weight. Then, of course, you have to do the rear......It will feel light years different. My RC was stock with settings as best I could get, but my buddies was revalved and shocked... My lap times were 2 seconds quicker.....instantly. And I'm slow. And don't think it has to be an Ohlins. You can save yourself some $$ with a Penske which is just a little cheaper and just as good. Many internet arguements have been started over this.

2. Sato frame sliders. Crash tested (by me on my ZX) and proven effective. If you don't have them think of those pretty side mount RC51 radiators dripping after a lowside.... Hmmmmm can't ride home....

3. Clip ons. Woodcraft, Vortex, anything which has a replaceable bar if you go down.

Yes, I left everything else stock. If the RC needs absolutely ONE performance mod, it's a PC.

I come to my opinions this way... If I go down, what is it going to take to get it up and running again....Stock spare parts on ebay are CHEAP and plentiful. Rearsets, Exhausts, whatever, it's out there. Think of you purty aftermarket exhaust and rearsets all smashed up after a simple lowside. I'd be crushed....(no pun intended). But hey, it's all up to you.

And don't listen to me. I don't even practice what I preach. On my 03 ZX, I've got a PC, Mori full exhaust, Sato rearsets, Woodcraft clip ons, and rashed (right side) bodywork. :D I'm such a tard. And the suspension is the ZX's most glaring fault. [8D] Anyway, good luck with your decision. And I know you probably know this, but that 2-1 Jardine has a really crappy power curve, even with the PC. If you want to stay cheap, Yosh has a really good bang for the buck full system. Either way, good luck and thanks for supporting the V-twin world.
 

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Why yes he did!! For anyone having the desire to use the bike in the twisties or tk-dys suspension is #1 and as Scootie Pie says the 51 needs it as it suffers dearly from ground clearance probs therefore an aftermarket shock with length adjustability or a Mori link in combination with a shock will transform a 51. You will get more out of the suspension being setup properly than you will xxxx amount of HP any day. And no the 2-1 system is [xx(]

BD
 

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Go with the suspension mods you have listed first.

- Fork revalve & new springs $430
- Ohlins rear shock $1000

Then add braided brake lines and frame sliders.

I agree with everything scootergmc said.
 

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Originally posted by arturo3rd
option #1 minus the rear sets, but add the fork upgrade for track
[:M67]damn[V]
Hey arturo3rd, how's it a repost? Isn't sgates looking for a consensus, and there would therefore be plenty of similar responses? It's all good.

Go with the suspension upgrades! [8D]
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yeah, the 2 into 1 isn't all that spectacular, but the 51 being the overweight beauty that it is, I am looking to shave off all the weight I can. I already took out the PAIR system and flapper valve, which saved about 17 lbs, and then a 2 into 1 will cut off 12 more, totalling 29 lbs, which will compeltely change the bike. I am 200 lbs, so the suspension is adequate for now when it is properly set up. I have ground clearance issues with the current cans (which might be fine with a Mori link and a shock). I think I will go with the suspension, just for the sheer fact that I regeared to 15 / 41 from 16 / 40 and it about ripped my arms off yesterday.
 

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OK, your suspension may be adequately for you on the street, but it won't come close to adequate on the track. At your weight, you won't be able to get even your correct sag settings up front. If you are, tell me (and the 25-30 RC riders I communicate with on a daily basis) how you did it. YOUR springs are way toooo weak. You need 1.0 kg springs maybe even 1.05. You will bottom out the suspension on the track really quick. Trust me. My buddy weighs 215 and the best we could manage for front sag was about 38mm, when ideal sag should be 20-30mm (that's what I generally shoot for) for proper track settings. Dan Kyle will tell you the same thing.

And the pair and flapper valve together is 17 lbs? Ummmm I don't think so...You've got a couple of check valves, some hoses, the check valve plates (which get replaced with block off plates) and then there's the flapper valve. All of which doensn't come close to 17 pounds. Even if you have a CA model with the additional Charcoal canister (which does weigh about 3 pounds).

Here are a couple of links...

http://www.motorush.com (you may already be a member here (Caution: squidly comments get flamed)
http://www.rc51.org (excellent mod info)
http://geremy.speedyard.net (more excellent info plus excellent suspension articles)

Either way, do what you like and have fun with your RC. It's yours after all. Remember, I'm a tard. :D
 

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Originally posted by sgates
Yeah, the 2 into 1 isn't all that spectacular, but the 51 being the overweight beauty that it is, I am looking to shave off all the weight I can. I already took out the PAIR system and flapper valve, which saved about 17 lbs, and then a 2 into 1 will cut off 12 more, totalling 29 lbs, which will compeltely change the bike. I am 200 lbs, so the suspension is adequate for now when it is properly set up. I have ground clearance issues with the current cans (which might be fine with a Mori link and a shock). I think I will go with the suspension, just for the sheer fact that I regeared to 15 / 41 from 16 / 40 and it about ripped my arms off yesterday.
I understand your efforts to remove weight from the bike and all but a pair of regular slip-ons will reduce some 10lbs (if not more) alone, so follow through with the suspension stuff and install a set if the funds are available. BTW the 15/41 is a perfect setup.

BD
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Originally posted by scootergmc
At your weight, you won't be able to get even your correct sag settings up front.

And the pair and flapper valve together is 17 lbs? Ummmm I don't think so...You've got a couple of check valves, some hoses, the check valve plates (which get replaced with block off plates) and then there's the flapper valve.
I agree with you completely, the suspension is fine on the street, but I have not taken it on a track yet (god damn winter) so I haven't felt the compression or rebound characteristics pushig it yet. As for the weight of the removal, it's a guess, I don't have a scale, but even so it is a noticeable difference. The only problem with the forks is I have never removed a set before and am hesitant to rip the bike apart to take off forks and isntall new rear suspension. I guess I will have to grow some bigger balls and just do it.
 

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Well if you plan on racing and know alot about adjusting forks and shocks get them. But most people that replace the suspension end up with a worse set-up. Superbike magazine has an article about one of the staff riders that has added all kind of mods to his zx6r and has made it very unstable. They say it went from being the best bike to the piece of shizat. All the articles point out how the suspension is great for the track but to hard for the streets. I agree since most of the people that give the suspension praise are profesional racers or ride bikes for a living. I think the best thing you can do is add a Full exhaust system power commander, damper, great set of track tires, rear sets to suit your style. Then when you sign a contract with Dorna or HRC your suspension will be done for you. Peace!
 

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But most people that replace the suspension end up with a worse set-up.
This statement is actually true because the fact is many people replace their suspension components and fail to educate themselves on how the suspension actually operates and how subtle adjustments affect performance.

I believe the easiest way to get quicker on the track is suspension modifications.

I did not see that Superbike article. So I can't comment. But I would like to know what they did to make it SO unstable. They probably got it to corner like it's on rails and sacrificed straight line stability in the process...
 
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