I NEED SERIOUS HELP...

1277 Views 14 Replies 5 Participants Last post by TICALION STALION, Jan 22, 2003

TICALION STALION

Discussion Starter · Jan 17, 2003

I RIDE A 97 AND I JUST BOUGHT A STOCK EXHAUST SYSTEM(FULL)AND IT HAS CHANGED THE WAY MY BIKE RUNS.NOW IT HESITATES ALMOST TO THE POINT OF STALLING OUT, BUT ONLY FROM A DEAD STOP.WHEN I'M ON THE FREEWAY I HAVE ALOT OF POWER ANT CAN STILL JUMP TO HIGH SPEEDS->NO HESITATION THERE. BUT AT STOPLIGHTS IT SOUNDS REALY DEEP KINDA LIKE IT'S GOT TOO MUCH FLOW.THIS PART WAS VIRTUALY IDENTICAL EXCEPT THAT THE FINISH IS NOW A SILVER CAN W/CHROME PIPES I WAS THINKING MAYBEE I HAVE TO MILDLY JET IT TO BALANCE THE FLOW DIFFERENCE LIKE IF I HAD PUT ON AN AFTERMARKET RACE SYSTEM.I READ THAT YOU MUST REJET WHENEVER YOU CHANGE EXHAUST.I'M NOT A MECHANICAL EXPERT AND DON'T KNOW WHAT TO DO BUT ONE OF YOU GUY'S HOPEFULLY HAS THE ANSWER...I'M HURTING GUY'S PLEASE HELP!!![V]

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GreenEnvy

· #2 · Jan 17, 2003

1) LOSE THE CAPITAL LETTERS! IT MAKES IT HARD TO READ
2) You probobly do need a rejet, changing the whole exhaust will wreak having on the bikes power until it's is rejetted to match.

-=Welcome To Canada=-

2002 Green 6R
1986 Gixxer 7/11

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bladecutter

· #3 · Jan 17, 2003

Two things come to mind.

1) Time for a carb synch. Change the exhaust, change the flow characteristics, change the balance between the cylinders.

2) You might need an adjustment on the idle speed air jets. Pull the carbs, drill out the EPA caps, and adjust all the cylinders to the same setting.

And one more helpful tip:

TURN OFF THE DAMN CAPS LOCK!! ITS DRIVING ME NUTS!

BC.

TICALION STALION

Discussion Starter · #4 · Jan 18, 2003

Check it out small letters for you guy's sorry i didn't realize it was pissing everybody off.Realy though, thanks for the input.Now for a follow up step one jet it-right so i've heard of stage one,two etc...what's the recomedation? And step two carb synch, a definete must...ok,now who's got the pictures on how to drill out the epa caps?
or at least some instructions that i can make some sense out of.I am realy greatfull for the help,my brain has fizzled becase of this i was not sure if i was going to have to scrap the whole plan.oh yeah where can i get a jet kit for a good price...anyone? thanks again!

bladecutter

· #5 · Jan 19, 2003

The best price for a jet kit is to go to a local dealer, and buy a set of jets one size larger than whats in your carbs, and one set smaller. Swap in the smaller jets, ride the bike for a while. Swap in the larger size jets, and ride around some more. Whichever jets feel better to your riding style, go with. Jets tends to be quite cheap, and buying 8 or less jets is alot cheaper than buying a full jet kit, and provides almost the same level of performance.

As for the EPA caps, find a small drill bit, and a screw that is the same size. Very carefully drill into the cap, being careful to just pierce the cap, and not damage the screw that is behind it (dont worry too much, its a little ways back there). After you drill the hole, screw screw into the cap, and use a pair of pliers and pull out the caps. That's the easiest way.

You might beable to do something similiar with a hammer and a nail that has those little ribs that prevent the nail from being pulled out (sort of like what the barb on a fish hook is supposed to do). nail the nail into the cap, and pull back on the nail with the pliers - out comes the cap.

BC.

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TICALION STALION

Discussion Starter · #6 · Jan 20, 2003

i heard maybe just get one size up on my main jets? should i do this and adjust the idle speed air jets?...anyone?

badassjake

· #7 · Jan 20, 2003

Well.......If money is a factor then that wil limit options.....going one up on the mains is a consideration....I would start with a setting of the idle circuit(idle jets, as described above).....then a good carb sync.......the main jet work on the top end of the rpms,that which you say is OK.......

The idle jets should be set somewhere around 2 1/2 to 3 turns out......
Does the temp of the bike make a difference???When it is hot, is it better or worse??

Jason

Everyone has their own thing.....

swjohnsey

· #8 · Jan 20, 2003

I doesn't sound like your problem is with the main jets. If the problem is between 4,000-8,000 rpm it is more the needles. If it is below 4,000 rpm it is the air bleeds and the float height. If it is just the sound that you are concerned about I don't think any amount of jetting will change the sound.

To drill out the epa caps first remove the carbs. Then take a drill with a 1/8" drill bit and drill slowly into the aluminum cap. Be careful and go slow when it just starts to break through stop. Now take a sheet metal screw and thread it into the hole you made and use the screw to wiggle and pull the plug out.

badassjake

· #9 · Jan 20, 2003

Yea.....damn float height........was going to mention that too.....had me fooled all summer trying sort that bug out of my bike.....the floats just settled over time(wheelies,bumps,carbs on and off,etc.).....very important little things......easy to fix...easily overlooked.

Jason

Everyone has their own thing.....

TICALION STALION

Discussion Starter · #10 · Jan 20, 2003

temp does not make a diff-just when im lettig out the clutch and starting off, the rpm's drop way down unless im real aggressive w/the gas or ride out the clutch by the way the full system was totaly stock off a 00zx6r the innards of the can are diff on the new one i'm getting alot of info here. there may be hope.>>edit>>o.k. so float height maybe the prob? so should o just yank my carbs and go through them adjusting and synching epa's and a prayer? by the way-the most important thing is performance the sound will follow to correction when this is fixed...i think. i'm listening...

swjohnsey

· #11 · Jan 20, 2003

If it does it worse when the engine is cold you are too lean. If it is worse when the engine is warmed up it is too rich. If it is too lean try a little choke to see it it makes it better to confirm too lean.

If the carbs have ever been messed with I would but the air bleeds to 2 turns out and try it again. The best bet though is that the float heights are off to cause a bog like that.

TICALION STALION

Discussion Starter · #12 · Jan 20, 2003

yeah- float height sounds like the way, but how to adjust that will i need some info of is it easy self explanitory-like?

swjohnsey

· #13 · Jan 20, 2003

Adjusting the float height is pretty simple. It works just like the float height on cars. You bend the little metal tang on the float that contacts the needle valve. Measuring the float height is a little tricky. There is a tiny spring in the needle valve. The factory float height specs are measured with this spring NOT compressed. Also it is hard to measure, hold, make sure spring is not compressed, etc. I made a guage to measure the float height out of plexiglass. It looks like the letter U with the bottom squared off. This way all the float heights are exactly the same.

TICALION STALION

Discussion Starter · #14 · Jan 20, 2003

i've got some plexi in my garage so then just pull the carbs and set the float height epa's and finaly a carb synch..oh yeah and a needle shim this sounds most promising. thanks to all who are helping out i would be in the dark without all of you and this website. and to anyone else who has more ideas i'm still listening! thanks ninjas

TICALION STALION

Discussion Starter · #15 · Jan 22, 2003

alright this is what has been done went up to 40's on my pilot jets and 155 mains shimed the needles and a new air filter. oh and since i went uo to 40's on my pilots i strted my epa's off at 2 turns we shall see soon. i should be done installing carbs in an hour or so. thanks again to all who helped out![^]

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