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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I searched in vain over the last few days for "fairly detailed" instructions on how to install no-cut LP sliders and eventually had to figure it out primarily by trail and error. Here's a summary of the process that will hopefully be usefull to those that aren't too mechanically inclined such as myself. No pride of authorship so please feel free to add to this as I might have made a mistake installing mine, oh oh.

Required Tools:
1. 6mm Alan Key (preferably with a ratchet)
2. 3mm Alan Key (no need for ratchet)
3. 14mm Socket with extension and ratchet
Note: Although this installation was performed only last night, I might be off by plus/minus one size on the tools (not sure what's up with this memory of mine).

Installing Right Side Slider:
Look at the slit in the fairings and the upper engine mount bolt stares right at you.
Step 1: Remove the the factory bolt using tool #1. Note that there's a nut that secures the bolt so look out for it to ensure that it doesn't fall loose somewhere in that pile of engine stuff. I would advice that you reach out for it with you fingers while loosening the bolt.
Step 2: Install the slider with the LP bolt using tool #3. Don't forget to use the factory nut to secure the bolt. Note that the bolt is one-sided in the sense that it has a mechanism the prevents the bolt from being "over-screwed", this means that you have to screw the bolt through the correct side of the nut.

Installing Left Side Slider:
This was a slightly more complicated as it involved removing the fairings (sp?) to reveal the engine mount bolt.
Step 1: Use tool #2 to remove or lossen the fairings. This step involves removing about 6 to 8 relatively small screws that are fairly visible.
Step 2: Repeat step #1 used on the right side.
Step 3: Attached the bracket part of the LP slider using tool #1 and don't forget to include the enclosed washer. Similar to the right side, you also have to secure it with the nut.
Step 4: Re-install the fairings.
Step 5: Attach the slider to the bracket using tool #3.

Note: I spoke with a mechanic at my dealership about the torque spec and he said simply tighten the bolts as hard as you can. I made sure that they were very tight but also note that tight that they can never come out (similar to how one would tighten the nuts when putting on a spare tire on your car).
 

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i suggest using a litle more effort and instaling some fairing cut sliders. even the old fashoined sliders sometimes bend and having another bracket betweem the slider and frame just looks like more trouble.
 

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I installed these months ago on mine. Also note that Blue Loctite should be used on the bolts in conjunction with the hand tightening in order to prevent them from coming loose. Also, I noticed that the left slider didn't rotate after installation but for some reason the right slider can be rotated by hand (although you have to turn it). I spoke to a guy at a tech shop who has the same bike and he said his sliders rotated too so I'm guessing it's something with design. But, God forbid you were to use the sliders, you probably would want them to rotate a little bit, as long as they didn't break off.
 
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