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fap-o-caster
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Since my vortex rearset install, I obviously had to nix my rear brake light switch. But I see that it raised the rear resivoir up and is making the hose from the resivoir to the MC even more kinked. Braking does not seem to be impeeded but I'm worries about after a long ride and heat expansion of the fluid it might cause a backup. Can I simply go to auto parts store, get a hydraulic brake line hose, and cut the length I need, or do I need oem and trim it down? Any thoughts? Thanks!!


 

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Got lime? I do
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hydrlic hose cut to length should be fine. it's clamped on one side (upper) is the lower clamped also?
 

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Trim the one you have ? saves time and effort...
 

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fap-o-caster
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Discussion Starter #4
yeah there appear to be some clamps on both ends. I would trim the stock one but there goes my saftey net in case I fug it all up! The end that goes to the MC looks like it sits on some smaller nipple thing and that's clamped from the line hose. I wonder why the aftermarket kits don't give you a short SS line for that part too.
 

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yeah there appear to be some clamps on both ends. I would trim the stock one but there goes my saftey net in case I fug it all up! The end that goes to the MC looks like it sits on some smaller nipple thing and that's clamped from the line hose. I wonder why the aftermarket kits don't give you a short SS line for that part too.
how hard could it be? Just pull it off and cut it in small increments until it fits. It isn't rocket surgery.
 

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It's not hard to pull it off and trim (cut), the hardest part will be bleeding it. If you can bleed then trimming the line is cake.................
 

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Powerhungry
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yeah there appear to be some clamps on both ends. I would trim the stock one but there goes my saftey net in case I fug it all up! The end that goes to the MC looks like it sits on some smaller nipple thing and that's clamped from the line hose. I wonder why the aftermarket kits don't give you a short SS line for that part too.
you dont need a SS line. theres no pressure in that hose.

either cut your stock one shorter, or..

it looks like you might be able to rotate the MC end(the nipple) toward the inside of the bike.
i cant tell, but it looks like that might give you enough room. might still have to trim the hise a little.
It's not hard to pull it off and trim (cut), the hardest part will be bleeding it. If you can bleed then trimming the line is cake.................
if you decide to cut, or replace it, suction the fluid out of the res.
and pull the hose.

put it back together, and refill the res.

no bleeding necessary.
 

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fap-o-caster
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Discussion Starter #8
It's not hard to pull it off and trim (cut), the hardest part will be bleeding it. If you can bleed then trimming the line is cake.................

"if it bleeds, vee can kill it" :D I did bleed the rear earlier this year it wasn't that bad. I'll give the trim a whirl. Thanks for the input!
 

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Ran into the same problem with my Sato's. Trimmed @ 1/2 an inch off the top of the hose. U dont have to worry about bleeding the brakes. Just remove the hose from the bottom of the resivoir, cut it, reinstall it and refill.
 

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yeah, i just drained and cut. brakes work great, it's not bent anymore, and yeah its kinda nice to be able to slow down for cops without that sensor there either.
 

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fap-o-caster
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Discussion Starter #12
Hey, how did you make something to reuse the brake light switch?

Or did you buy the piece for it?
It's impossible to use the stock switch. The wires that come from the harness go into some round switch thing that has the spring activator which is connected to a spring and then to the pedal lever. The rearset (stock one) has a cutout where the round switch housing attaches to. The vortex rearset does not, it only can attach the rear MC. They give you a brake line pressure switch which you have to put it on the back of the mc where your brakeline attaches, and run the cables up to the light or harness. There doesn't seem to be any way to connect the wires unless you splice them. I hate splicing them. I really wonder how it was pass inspection, it probably won't though, but fawk, what do they expect you to do! Bike's 100% legal in every other way.
 

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It's impossible to use the stock switch. The wires that come from the harness go into some round switch thing that has the spring activator which is connected to a spring and then to the pedal lever. The rearset (stock one) has a cutout where the round switch housing attaches to. The vortex rearset does not, it only can attach the rear MC. They give you a brake line pressure switch which you have to put it on the back of the mc where your brakeline attaches, and run the cables up to the light or harness. There doesn't seem to be any way to connect the wires unless you splice them. I hate splicing them. I really wonder how it was pass inspection, it probably won't though, but fawk, what do they expect you to do! Bike's 100% legal in every other way.
You can zip-tie the round switch to frame/master cyclinder/ or vortex bracket, and then attach the spring to the foot brake lever - like you would a washer, just screw the spring in some place. Not very reliable, but it should get you through an inspection. You just have to be creative.
 

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There doesn't seem to be any way to connect the wires unless you splice them. I hate splicing them. I really wonder how it was pass inspection, it probably won't though, but fawk, what do they expect you to do!
For fuck's sake stop being a pussy and splice the damn wire.:Laughing rolling:
 

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yeah, i just drained and cut. brakes work great, it's not bent anymore, and yeah its kinda nice to be able to slow down for cops without that sensor there either.
lol :plusone: I always brake with both front and back, so I wasn't worried about the rear brake light switch. Then I realized the benefit mentioned above.
 

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You can zip-tie the round switch to frame/master cyclinder/ or vortex bracket, and then attach the spring to the foot brake lever - like you would a washer, just screw the spring in some place. Not very reliable, but it should get you through an inspection. You just have to be creative.
Hm. Good Idea. I think i want to try to figure out something for it.

and oh shit thanks for reminding me about inspection i think im 2 months late lol
 

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fap-o-caster
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Discussion Starter #17
For fuck's sake stop being a pussy and splice the damn wire.:Laughing rolling:
yeah, but I am an electrical noob, I suck at splicing, soldering. You can't tape up a wire and expect it to work nice! I've gotten better but still, not everyone are born with a wrench in their hands!

You can zip-tie the round switch to frame/master cyclinder/ or vortex bracket, and then attach the spring to the foot brake lever - like you would a washer, just screw the spring in some place. Not very reliable, but it should get you through an inspection. You just have to be creative.
That's a good idea. The spring will definetly attach to the rearset lever, getting enough slack in the stock wires to reach farther would be the key. Plus could always do the first inspection of the morning when the shop opens with a dozen donuts for everyone angle!
 

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What he said. Exactly what I did with my Sato's. Trimmed-no problem. BTW you can get a brake light switch for that too-it's no big deal. Call Dan Kyle Racing up-they'll sell you one.
Here's a pic of mine. Zoom in on it and you'll see exactly what the brake light switch and trimmed hose look like.
 

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^ almost couldn't see it cause of the wristband covering it up. But yeah I had to do the same thing with my Gilles.

P.S. - to zoom hold ctrl and press the + key ; to return to normal hold ctrl and press 0

Mike T - +1 on having a Clean bike, Just the right amount of stickers and the Marchenisi's would so complete your bike.
 

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Hey thanks for the props-wasn't trying to threadjack-but by the time I got posted 5 other dudes had already done it. Oh well-thanks!
 
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