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any one know of the size of a good jetting to put in a 97 zx6r, with a Two bros slip on, and an advancer, and k&n?? needle shims??? size , how many?? any help
when i ran it on a dyno, with just the slpi on, and the K&N, the air fuel ratio was skimming the bottom of the graph,
and when it idles it smells like it is way to rich.??
now i went up in the main jets from the two out sides of 145-150, and the two insides from150-155, this made my bike come alive like a bat out of hell,BUT it still smells to rich, and i have not shimed th needles??? any ideas??? THANX
 

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Most bikes come from the factory jetted pretty rich on the top end and lean in the mid-range. I have a '95 and it was no exception. I suspect that the original mains were O.K. for the top end but when you changed them it riched up the mid-range a little, too.

You might want to go back to the original main jet set up and start with a couple of #4 washers under each needle. Also drill out the plugs covering the idle bleed screws and open them up 1/4 turn at a time.

One thing that really helps performance on the '95-'97 is to block off about half the radiator. They bike runs too cold and there is no replacement thermostat with a higher open temp available that I know of. I live in south Texas where the temperature is topping 100 degrees every day. I have half my radiator blocked with a piece of thich black plastic that I cut off a cheap ring binder. In the winter I run an even bigger one. You need to get it where the temp guage runs between the first mark and the middle marke on the highway.
 

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i have a 97 zx 6r that i jetting/tuned myself, but i did use a kit to do it, not that you really need it...

i did use a dynojet/k&n jet kit, and have full yosh race exhaust and k&n air filter

my current settings are 1.5 turns on the a/f mix screws, dj 144 jets right accross, and the needles are clipped on the outer most position, but no washers. it may seem excessively lean, but im also at 3400 feet in elevation.

i have a small hesitation off of idle, and a small dip in power at 11000rpm, but otherwise is smooth, it goes for a dyno run on sat with a full hydrocarbon printout, see how close am and get rid of that 11000 dip

not sure if it helps much, but it give you a starting point.

i found this little diagarm very helpfull when i was doing my own tuning...

http://www.keihin-us.com/tune1.htm
 
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