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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Finally got some track time to test out all the mods. 1st off I'll list what's on the bike so far:

1) Leo Vince gp power bomb mid pipe with ching chong can.
2) 2004 zx10 forks, yolks ( fitted with ER stem), axle spacers, tokico radial 4 pot calipers, racetec springs and stock wheel.
3) Versus swing arm, adjusters and axle.
4) Modified stock rear shock with air valve and BMW F800 spring with spacer collar.
5) Mildly skimmed and ported head.
6) Desnorkled and pair valve pipe mod.
7) Power Commander V with timing adjust (17-030)
8) HM Plus type 2 quickshifter
9) JJ rearsets
10) ZX6R 2016 race fairing and seat, ZX10R Front mudguard
11) Brembo 16mm Radial front brake master cylinder.
12) JT 15 front and Talon 45 rear sprockets (vary between 44 and 46 track dependent.
13) No name quick throttle.
14) SBS sintered brake pads and braided hoses.
15) Tyres normally Pirelli Super Corsa 1/2 (track and temperature dependent or Superbike full wets). I've recently been trying Pirelli Diablo Rosso Corsa 2. very impressive for a road tyre that will double up for use as a good track day one. We are pretty restricted here with 160 rear tyre choice. The other option is Bridgestones which I'm not a fan of. Dunlop only has an experimental tyre not yet homologated. ( info from a chap I know who used then at IOM in the lightweight class last year) called Road TT (hybid D203/4 compound built on 160 roadsmart mould)

Did a slow 1st 2 laps to remember the lines, bed in the new pads check out the handling , get some heat into tyres ( had been on tyre warmers only 15 mins). Started to get up to a smooth pace brakes felt spongy but strong. Realised that they are much more powerfull than than the stockers and you can push the braking marker at the end of the straight by about another 10-15m with ease. I've read that the Nissin calipers have a better feel something to investigate later. The frt end felt very stable and planted , soothing out the bumps very plushly almost like my lazyboy (GTR1400 / Concorse). Still getting a bit of rear wheel lock up, but a lot more controlable than before as back end was pushing the frt into pogoing. The swing arm is definately stiffer. I did feel a little bit of judder in the frt end under hard braking going into the hairpin still need to set up the sag and make some other adjustments. Also the throttle seems quite snatchy coming out of the hairpin. It's a case of chosing between going down to 5500rpm in 3rd or being at 8000rpm in 2nd. 3rd feels less twitchy but you have to contend with the throttle lag and then snatch as it hits the peak torque. Its a case of which is the safer of 2 evils. All in all very promising. I was surprised that my mate on his GSXR750 presling didn't fly past, also when I was behind him he wasn't pulling away estimated we were doing 200kph at the end of the straight.

I found out the other rear shock I have is off an 05 R1 (300mm). The spring has been changed to? and is way to hard being almost like a solid bar. The stock spring is 86 N/mm so I'll get the one on it measured and look for something suitable for my weight. Once that's done we can set the sag etc. I need to find out the std spring length and ID (can measure that from the collars once I get the other one off)

Mods still to do bigger radiator, ram air ducting, investigate versus inlet cam swop, slipper clutch, lightened flywheel, possible bored throttle bodies and conrods.

Keep safe out there.
 

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2011 Kawasaki ER-6F
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You said no-name quick throttle, do you mean ziptie or is there an actual whole throttle tube that's faster action? If so would you be able to let me know where I can get one? Stock throttle turn is insane, it's probably like a 1/2 turn haha
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Antares it's a complete unit without any switches ala motorcross bikes. The better makes will have interchangable diameter pulley wheels giving different ratios eg 1/8 , 1/4 1/3 turn actions. The poor mans solution I use for suzukis is a motrix aftermarket replacement yamaha r6 throttle tube, cheap and gives between 1/4 and 1/3 turn throttle action. It will probably work on the er650. Just be carefully using the 1st time or you will be pointing the front wheel skywards especially on more powerfull bikes like the 1 did the 1st time on my 1200 bandit.
 

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Antares it's a complete unit without any switches ala motorcross bikes. The better makes will have interchangable diameter pulley wheels giving different ratios eg 1/8 , 1/4 1/3 turn actions. The poor mans solution I use for suzukis is a motrix aftermarket replacement yamaha r6 throttle tube, cheap and gives between 1/4 and 1/3 turn throttle action. It will probably work on the er650. Just be carefully using the 1st time or you will be pointing the front wheel skywards especially on more powerfull bikes like 1 did the 1st time on my 1200 bandit.
I was thinking of just swapping an R6 Throttle housing and tube straight in and just ignoring the fact the kawi housing has that incorporated, i'm just worried about compatibility in terms of cable length/style, as far as i'm aware the R6 also has 2 throttle cables but i'm not sure if I'm forgetting something, after all the cable is a cable, length should be irrelevant apart from comfortable routing, and i'm hoping i can just use my existing cables, just cos the r6 has independent throttle housing it's easier to add on + it's extremely cheap, i can probably pick up housing + tube for under 30 bucks
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Was speaking to some blokes in Cape Town who raced er650. The one thing that came up was radiators they mentioned they used a reworked R6 flat type (1999 to 2002). I have also seen mentioned here zx10 2004. I have a zx10 curve type year unknown that was donated to me a while back.There were fitting issues with old fairing will recheck and also look at zx6?. Bike has no fan but I must check if a mod has been done. On my SV650S we take out the center plunger valve out of the thermostat. The reasoning is you need some back pressure by the restricting the flow to avoid to much coolant to the radiator and not the motor. Also it permits quicker warm up of the motor, prevents stuck corroded thermostat causing overheating and permits cooler running. Normally thermostats only open at about 103 deg Celsius or more allowing coolant to be redirected to the radiator. In racing glycol based antifreeze coolant is not permitted so I use a Fuchs (Silkolene) product that is. FYI a glycol spill on the tar is like riding over silicon (slip sliding away)
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Tried my ZX10 radiator thats a bust. Some more research revealed a couple of things. Versus inlet cam fitted in ER6 inlet and move the ER6 inlet cam to exhaust position (seems strange as ER exhaust and versus inlet cams are supposed to be the same ( lift height is identical must check part no) maybe the angle is different otherwise why not just swop the er cams around ? I also want to lighten the flywheel but want to know how much to take off. Anyone have any experience with this or knows or has measured the spears racing moded one. Also looking for length of their velocity stacks (can have them 3D printed). Want to mod the ZX6R or 636 (05- 09) orZX6RR 03- slipper clutch. Not shure if the updated 2010 zx6R also clutch fits. As far as I understand you need to.rivet ER ring gear back plate onto ZX6R basket and make a spacer (dimensions ?).One final question saw ECU for sale one marked N and F. Had different colour decals. Do the N and F models have different ECU's, if so why to correct the speedo to different rear sprocket sizes? Maybe the advertiser just got mixed up with a versus or restricted ER ECU.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok cleared up one thing 07 cam part nos er650 inlet 49118-0072 exhaust 49118-0042 versus are 49118-0076 and 49118-0075 respectively also checked 2011 to confirm.So the statement that I read that versus inlet cam er650 exhaust are identical must be wrong. The versus also has a lower compression head and different ecu.The lift height and duration also seem to confirm this.

Ninja 650R/ER6:
Inlet- open 31° BTDC................Exhaust- open 50° BBDC
close 61° ABDC........................close 30° ATDC
duration 272°..........................duration 260°
cam height 36.6 +/- 0.057 mm... cam height 35.9 +/- 0.057 mm

Versys:
Inlet- open 25° BTDC................Exhaust- open 47° BBDC
close 54° ABDC........................close 25° ATDC
duration 260°..........................duration 252°

The plot thickens.
 
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Ok cleared up one thing 07 cam part nos er650 inlet 49118-0072 exhaust 49118-0042 versus are 49118-0076 and 49118-0075 respectively also checked 2011 to confirm.So the statement that I read that versus inlet cam er650 exhaust are identical must be wrong. The versus also has a lower compression head and different ecu.The lift height and duration also seem to confirm this.

Ninja 650R/ER6:
Inlet- open 31° BTDC................Exhaust- open 50° BBDC
close 61° ABDC........................close 30° ATDC
duration 272°..........................duration 260°
cam height 36.6 +/- 0.057 mm... cam height 35.9 +/- 0.057 mm

Versys:
Inlet- open 25° BTDC................Exhaust- open 47° BBDC
close 54° ABDC........................close 25° ATDC
duration 260°..........................duration 252°

The plot thickens.
Yea it didn't make sense to me that they'd be the same, the Versys only revs to 10k and it makes a bit less peak horsepower even though the exhaust is the same, so the difference must be in the head, it is interesting how much difference there is in timing though, 6° on the inlet open is quite a lot. Might be worthwhile looking into the effects in terms of tuning timing. I rode an '08 versys and that was the bike that made me get my ER6F, I'm not sure if I was what I was feeling is due to some gearing differences or the higher centre of gravity but the versys seemed to be a lot gruntier low down compared to my ER6F despite making 6bhp less and 5Nm less torque. Interesting...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Was looking for the 05/06 zx6r stock slipper clutch at my friendly bike breakers. Unfortunately he doesnt have. He does have an 07. when I checked out the parts drawing I found the certain changes have been made the basket, the fiber plates changed from 5 to 4 , steels from 4 to 3, clutch springs and push rod spring. It looks like the fibre and steel plate have got ether got thicker or the basket is narrower ? Worth checking out. Still cannot find out anything about the clutch spacer sizes. Also been wondering about using a zx6R raditor rather than the flat R6 whose inlets & outlets would need modifying but one of the ZX6R radiators have outlets and inlets almost identical to the ER6. . Got the R1 rear shock apart and the spring had definately been changed. Was like a truck spring way too long and too hard. At the same time had it serviced the oil was the wrong weight and also had it re-gased with nitrogen. This weekend busy changing the zx10r fork seals as one is weeping. Still no racing at the moment but can practice.
 

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Switched to Amsoil Metric 10W - 40 about a month ago after returning from my annual moto trip and I have to say I am impressed. I was extremely satisfied with the Bel Ray Synthetic Ester Blend 10W - 40 but the Amsoil is on another league, less engine and gearbox noise, engine running cooler and no clutch slipping at all (this was the reason I was avoiding fully synthetic oils like the plague). Especially when the oil is 100% up to temperature the gearbox is amazing and it makes clutchless upshifts a breeze! I will give it a full review when I hit the track this fall, it's way too hot for that now, but I'd suggest that you should give it a try with your next oil change and tell us what you think :)
 
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