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Discussion Starter #1
My question is, linking up 3 LED's off of one turn signal im i going to run into any problems in series? Or is there any other way that is better that im just not thinking about?



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In a word... Parallel.

Do NOT wire them in series. Anytime you "add" lighting into a circuit, always wire it in parallel... Negatives with negatives and positives with positives. (Keeps all the voltages across the lights equal at approx. 12 volts, and you won't get any damaging current going thru components that simply can't handle what's being pushed thru if they were in series...)

What kind of LEDs are you wiring in? That is to say, they are for automotive 12v use... Right?
 

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[8D]

Just tryin' to share my knowledge with the world! Wouldn't want any fellow Kawi owners to go astray...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
BSHAP thanks man,

Yes they are automotive 12v LED's made by varad hyperled i picked up 2 packs of 4 im going to use 3 on either side of the passenger hangers and one up font in a set of flush mounths. I know its been awhile since iv opened my electricity book from college but its better to hear it from someone else.

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If I add some LEDs in the passeger hangers, would adding 10 on each side use anymore juice than only 3? I don't want 10 really, just wondering if it makes a difference. Also, is there a way to have the LEDs light up in sequence, in the direction I'm turning? And my last question... I understand the parallel vice series thing, but how do I actually connect the new LED wires to the existing stock wires? Some wire nuts and electical tape?
 

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Rich,
1) Yes, 10 LEDs would draw more "juice" than just 3 ... but the difference would be minimal.
2) Yes, there is a way to have the LEDs light up in the direction you're turning ... but it'd be a small electronic circuit that'd be a pain in the ass and you'd need one for each side (left/right).
3) As far as connecting to the existing wiring ... You COULD use wire nuts and electrical tape. However, I would strongly advise soldering the wires together and using shrink tubing to cover the connections. (More professional and permanent.)
 

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Ummm, what is the difference between wiring in series and wiring in parralel? I have wired up my Hotbodies ubndertail kit just fine. I snipped the stock wires and just attached them to the correct pos/neg leads to the LEDs. Is that parralel or in series wiring?
I have also installed three blue LED tubes on my bike as well. It is all running off the stock license plate light juice. I no longer have a license plate light, and I ran the ground and power wires from the old license plate light up to the cockpit with additional wiring since the stock wasn't long enough. I ran the wires to a switch mounted on the cover that would be air intake covers on any other bike. Then I wired up a second switch off that one, so when I flip the main switch, it turns on all 3 LED tubes. The second switch turns on/off just the huge 22 inch light bar on the bottom. I did that so I could have different levels of lighting. And since it is all running off the license plate light's power, it all turns off when the ignition is off so I can't forget and accidentaly leave em on. Was this parralel or in series wiring?
 

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Hey duh1nonly, if I'm understanding correctly what you've done, then yes you have connected the LEDs in parallel.

For Example:
3 LEDs in parallel, would be 3 positive wires from the 3 LEDs with the positive feed all connected together, and 3 negative wires from the 3 LEDs with the negative ground and connected together.

3 LEDs in series (Do NOT do!), would be the (+) feed to the (+) lead from the 1st LED and then the (-) lead from the 1st to the (+) lead of the 2nd LED and then the (-) lead from the 2nd to the (+) lead of the 3rd LED and then the (-) lead from the 3rd to the (-) ground.

As for those blue LED tubes... It depends on exactly how you wired those in, it could be all parallel... or you could have it parallel with that second switch in series. As long as it works the way you want and you're not blowing any fuses I wouldn't worry.

Let me know if you have any other questions...

Cheers.
[8D]
 

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Okay, then I have all my wiring in parralel. Nope, no blown fuses and everything works great.
 

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Rich, I'll have to get out my books for that one. The sequence would have to be moving pretty fast as the signal lights are only on for half a second in the first place... and then to have them going through a 1 - 2 - 3, 1 - 2 - 3 sequence, could be challenging. I'll have to get back to ya.
 

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Hey BSHAP, just wondering if you had found anything for me on the details of getting some led lights to work in sequence.
Also, I keep reading around here that everyone is looking for a way to recess the lights into the passenger peg holders. RadioShack sells 12V leds that include a holder that I think looks pretty good. Check out their website to see. Just do a search for LED LIGHTS. Just my two cents...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Iv drilled out the holes and filled in the backing with silicone. Looking good just have to wait for the weather know. [:M25]
 

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Hey Rich, as per your question about sequencing LEDs ... Well I really wouldn't waste my time. (There's no dead-simple way, especially without a background in electronics.)

But, if you're insistant on pursuing it... Here's a couple web pages that'll give you the general schematics for various LED circuits.

LED chaser (What you're after, kinda...): http://www.aaroncake.net/circuits/chaser.htm
LED Related Schematics: http://www.commlinx.com.au/led.htm

See, there's a few obsticles with this idea of yours...
First, most chips operate roughly in the +5volt (DC) range (+3 to +9 volts), so you'd need a voltage limiter to lower the average 12 volts of the bike to keep from frying the circuit. (IF using the bike's power) Or you could use a +9 volt battery.
Second, you'd need to build two of these circuits (one for each side).
Third, is that most circuits like these aren't designed to drive the 12 volt automotive LEDs so you'd need to add in more transistors to handle them.
So, thus far you'd need: a voltage limiter (basically a properly sized resistor), 2 NAND gate chips, 2 Counter chips, a couple capacitors, various additional resistors, 8 power transistors, a board to mount and wire all this on and the light's wiring into ... that can then be made water-tight.

Stuff like this LED chaser is cool to buy (if you can find such a pre-assembled unit that suits your needs), typically they're cheap because they're mass produced. ...Opposed to you going out and piecing everything together as a hobby which can get to be expensive and frustrating if it's not working out.

I did find a cheap little general LED Chaser Kit that you may wanna check out IF you're interested in building one just to get an idea of what all I'm talking about. http://www.xoxide.com/ledchaserkit.html

Cheers.
[8D]
 

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BSHAP

I think you are missing a few important factors here.

LED's in series could be FINE. Do you know Kirchoffs law about voltage drops? And if you were going to run these LED's in paralel you'd need to figure Amprage draw and use a current limiting resistor to keep them from toasting theirselves. But Back to kirchoffs ideas on voltage drops... Pretty much what it states is that in a series circuit the voltage drop across any given node is directly related to the resistance of said node.

so, if we pipe 12vdc into a circuit of 4 series connected LED's each one has 3volts across it, which means he can use 3 volt led's, and no current limiting resistor.
 

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Thanks for the help BSHAP. I'm finding out, from you and on my own, that there is a lot more involved in this than I thought. I havn't decided against it yet, but I'll probably just have them flash with my regular turn signals. Either way though I should get this done in a few weeks or less hopefully and I'll get some pics up soon after. Thanks again:D
 
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