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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all

I'm hoping someone can help me pin down this issue. It's progressively getting worse which indicates to me corrosion/chafed wire rather than a part failing. It's causing the bike to cut out occasionally at times when indicating or braking. The lights (dashboard etc) pulse at low revs along with the headlight and brake light.

So far I have unplugged (with no change when a light/control is operated):

  • All fuses except ignition and ECU
  • Headlight
  • City light
  • Brake light
  • Each indicator
  • Fan
  • Number plate light
  • Heated grips (via fuse)
  • Waterproof joint (for L/H control cluster, under tank)
  • Waterproof joint (big one with high current connection)
  • Each relay and entire relay box
  • PAIR valve
  • Each coil
After running, with the bike off, the battery reads at 12.5v which is fine. While running it fluctuates between 13-13.5v which is low. The lights pulse more frequently at higher revs. I tried hooking up a jump pack but the issue persists. The R/R and battery are new as of 3 months or so ago but I guess either could be at fault. I have a spare R/R of unknown condition, how can I test this with a multimeter? I would expect if it was either the battery or R/R that the issue would disappear with the jump pack attached, please correct me if I'm wrong.

Next places for me to check tomorrow morning for chafes/corrosion is the dash and the loom underneath it including the ignition barrel. I'm also going to check the rear brake pedal. I'd appreciate some advice if I'm looking in the right places or doing the wrong thing, electrics really aren't my area of expertise.

Thanks in advance
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You did when you tested the battery while running (test <4k rpms). You should be getting 14+ to 15+volts. It sounds like when you use more current its not available (dimming).


see 16-34 for detailed testing methods. But testing at the battery is pretty indicative.
Thanks, I just needed to be sure - it's not a cheap part. I'll see if I can pick up a used one and report back.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You did when you tested the battery while running (test <4k rpms). You should be getting 14+ to 15+volts. It sounds like when you use more current its not available (dimming).


see 16-34 for detailed testing methods. But testing at the battery is pretty indicative.
Would the problem not go away when hooked up to a jump pack?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Its a lot cheaper to test to find a faulty part than to buy and replace unnecessarily.

Use the SM (link above) and spend a little time double checking, its not difficult.
either way good luck, and hope you get rolling soon.
Thanks, I had a check of the manual. Once I find the plug tomorrow I'll get in there with a multimeter.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Alternator Check

I've checked at the plug according to the SM.

The voltage output reads:

normal-normal-normal (~45vAC @ 4k RPM)

The resistance reads:

normal(0.5Ohm)-high(0.5MOhm)-high(3.5MOhm)

I'm going to run with the headlight unplugged for now, that's a 35w drain not on the system, hopefully that'll keep me going for now. Does this mean I need a new stator even though the output voltage is OK?
 

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•If there is more resistance than shown in the table (0.18 ∼ 0.27 Ω), or no hand tester reading (infinity) for any two leads, the stator has an open lead and must be replaced. Much less than this resistance means the stator is shorted, and must be replaced.

• Using the highest resistance range of the hand tester, measure the resistance between each of the black leads and chassis ground.
Any hand tester reading less than infinity (∞) indicates a short, necessitating stator replacement.
 
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