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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, maybe it isn't that incredible but because my bike is an 01, I always assumed it didn't have the bottom adjusting nut for raising the ride height in the rear, so I never looked. Well, since I've moved my bike into my room for the winter, I've been able to work on the bike more comfortably.

Anyway, so this is great news and now I can raise the ride height in the rear a little. What I want to know is if you are take the measurement for the adjustments at the top of the shockn mounting plate (from the bottom of the top nut) or some other way.

Green/Black 01ZX6r. LP flushmount v's, tank guard. Removed decals, 2002 rear fairing, Pyramid hugger

96 SVT Cobra Black/Tan Vert 32V. Not stock!

93 Blue Probe GT 24V Commuter car.
 

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Yep - it's from the top of the shock mounting plate, probably where the bottom of the nut is now. The 4 or 5mm height of the existing nut counts as zero. (Later J2s have a spacer instead of a nut.)

You'll need a 22mm spanner for both the top and bottom nuts. You shouldn't need to remove the split pin in the top one, and you should be able to slot in a spanner without taking the seat or rear fairing etc. off. Just be careful of the frame paint![V]

Loosen the top nut first, as far as you can. With the bike on the sidestand, lean it over and the frame will move up, leaving more room to get the spanner in on the bottom nut. You might need someone to help, but it's easy - you don't need to tip it too far.

Start 'unscrewing' the nut till about a 4mm gap (use a 4mm drill bit to wedge in) exists between the bottom of said nut, and the top of the mount. Ride it, try it, and then adjust more or less as you wish. Most people recommend no more than 8mm as it upsets straight line stability.

I've set my J2 at 5mm with the forks dropped 6mm, and it's a good combination of quick drop-in and straightline stability.

Enjoy

jb



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...I should have also said to tighten both nuts accordingly1 Prolly obvious, but just for completeness.

You can't get a torque wrench in there so make sure they're 'kin tight.;)

jb



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Discussion Starter #4
"Start 'unscrewing' the nut till about a 4mm gap (use a 4mm drill bit to wedge in) exists between the bottom of said nut, and the top of the mount. Ride it, try it, and then adjust more or less as you wish. Most people recommend no more than 8mm as it upsets straight line stability."


I'm not sure I understood you here. Do you mean the measured gap from the top of the bottom nut or the bottom of the top nut? I'm thinking you meant the bottom nut..

Thanks!

Lance

Green/Black 01ZX6r. LP flushmount v's, tank guard. Removed decals, 2002 rear fairing, Pyramid hugger

96 SVT Cobra Black/Tan Vert 32V. Not stock!

93 Blue Probe GT 24V Commuter car.
 

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hehehe

The bottom of the bottom nut.

If it helps, I'll try and post a photo of mine, but with the time difference, you may not get it til Sunday!!:D

It should be self-explanatory when you get down to eye level, but just scream if you need me to 'talk' you through it!

Good luck

jb


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Discussion Starter #6
ok, I gotcha. :D I was just going to raise the top nut a measured 4mm over what I have now. I'll do it your way since it would seem to be more accurate for measurement.

Green/Black 01ZX6r. LP flushmount v's, tank guard. Removed decals, 2002 rear fairing, Pyramid hugger

96 SVT Cobra Black/Tan Vert 32V. Not stock!

93 Blue Probe GT 24V Commuter car.
 

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On my '95 I dropped the front 5 mm and raised the back 5 mm (at the nut) with no problem with stability. I used three quarters stacked for my guage both front and rear.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Did you guys increase front pre-load to accommodate for your front weight bias? I really like my front suspension settings and would like to leave them as they are. Maybe I'll leave them as they are until I decide if I'm going to lower the front end.

Green/Black 01ZX6r. LP flushmount v's, tank guard. Removed decals, 2002 rear fairing, Pyramid hugger

96 SVT Cobra Black/Tan Vert 32V. Not stock!

93 Blue Probe GT 24V Commuter car.
 

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Nope - didn't change any settings. Mind you, I changed mine according to some recommended settings for my weight as published in Performance Bikes before I raised the rear. Doesn't seem to affect anything, but I'm going to do some 'tweaking' in a week or 2.

I'll dig the article out and e-mail you. I'm going to bed now, so I'll mail it over the weekend. OK?

jb

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Discussion Starter #10
Sounds good. Thanks!

Green/Black 01ZX6r. LP flushmount v's, tank guard. Removed decals, 2002 rear fairing, Pyramid hugger

96 SVT Cobra Black/Tan Vert 32V. Not stock!

93 Blue Probe GT 24V Commuter car.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I just got done raising the rear. Probably the easiest thing I've ever done compared to turning the key on. I wound up going with a measurement of 6.75mm, but it could be 7mm because it's hard to tell exactly. I used a 1/4 inch allen wrench which converts to 6.75mm. Just sitting on the bike I can tell if feels more aggressive, which I was looking for.

Now I have to wait for the weather to cooperate so I can get the bike out for a ride.

Green/Black 01ZX6r. LP flushmount v's, tank guard. Removed decals, 2002 rear fairing, Pyramid hugger

96 SVT Cobra Black/Tan Vert 32V. Not stock!

93 Blue Probe GT 24V Commuter car.
 

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I remember trying to get at the nut on my 02 last summer but I wasnt able to get any wrench on it properly to get any leverage to actually turn the nut. Did you guys have to remove anything to get at the nut?
 

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If you loosen the top nut first and then pull the bike up on the side stand a little to unload the rear suspension you can get a wrench on the bottom nut when shock drops down a little.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I raised the bottom nut by going to the muffler side of the bike and pushing up on the rear passenger handle. Like SW said, it will put some more weight on the sidestand and you'll see the bike raise and expose the nut so you can raise it. I then tightened the top nut from the other side of the bike and it was done. 5 min job if that.


Are you sure you have the bottom adjusting nut and not the round shim? I was shocked to find the nut on my 01 since all the 01 and 02 are all supposed to have the shim.


Green/Black 01ZX6r. LP flushmount v's, tank guard. Removed decals, 2002 rear fairing, Pyramid hugger

96 SVT Cobra Black/Tan Vert 32V. Not stock!

93 Blue Probe GT 24V Commuter car.
 

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Sorry - been offline for a bit. Glad to hear you got it done, Snake!

All 2001 models (J1) came with the nut adjuster. Very early 2002s had the nut while Kawasaki had 'spares' and then spacers were fitted. This is the 600cc model I refer to, not the 636 (although I suspect they're the same).

Take it easy first time out - although it doesn't seem much, it can have a weird effect on fast (100mph +) straightline stability, and it will 'fall' into corners much quicker.

jb



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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks jb,

I will definately take it easy the first time out on the road. After watching a (self made) video of a group run with some friends, I noticed the front end of my bike would always seem high coming out of the apex. I thought this was due to too much rear squat, which is possible but I think it is clearly a ride height issue since my sag and rebound is set correctly.

The bike was initially slow on slow speed turn in as well which I'm sure this will also help. My only concern now is tires. I am trying to decide between the M1 and another pair of Dunlops. I like the D207 even though others hate them and I've heard the M1's make the 6r almost turn-in too easy. Since there are still some leftover D207's around, I will put these on again to get used to my new chassis changes and then think about something else in time.



Green/Black 01ZX6r. LP flushmount v's, tank guard. Removed decals, 2002 rear fairing, Pyramid hugger

96 SVT Cobra Black/Tan Vert 32V. Not stock!

93 Blue Probe GT 24V Commuter car.
 

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Originally posted by 96SNAKE016R

Thanks jb,

I will definately take it easy the first time out on the road. After watching a (self made) video of a group run with some friends, I noticed the front end of my bike would always seem high coming out of the apex. I thought this was due to too much rear squat, which is possible but I think it is clearly a ride height issue since my sag and rebound is set correctly.

The bike was initially slow on slow speed turn in as well which I'm sure this will also help. My only concern now is tires. I am trying to decide between the M1 and another pair of Dunlops. I like the D207 even though others hate them and I've heard the M1's make the 6r almost turn-in too easy. Since there are still some leftover D207's around, I will put these on again to get used to my new chassis changes and then think about something else in time.



Green/Black 01ZX6r. LP flushmount v's, tank guard. Removed decals, 2002 rear fairing, Pyramid hugger

96 SVT Cobra Black/Tan Vert 32V. Not stock!

93 Blue Probe GT 24V Commuter car.
Snake, while there's nothing wrong with the 207's, I bet you'd like some of the other brands better. Maybe not...
 
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