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Veteran Lowsider
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I need to lubricate my shifter - it is very very stiff and you literally have to kick it. Also i need to bleed my brakes, when i worked on my bike i removed the rear reservoir and now it seems to have bubbles in it (the rear brake is hot to the touch after riding, indicating it may be grabbing.) Can anyone lead me to the right direction please?
 

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Just some tips/thoughts pertaining to Nevada's post.

You can release the pedal/lever if and only if the tube is below the level of the fluid in the catch pan/jar. In fact if the res is empty you could put new fluid in something clean and then submerge the end of the tubing in the fluid.

If you're having a hard time bleeding anything you can reroute the tubing into the reservoir and just cycle the pedal/lever back and forth with the bleeder screw open the whole time.

Check these out. Super slick makes bleeding brakes fool proof.

http://www.speedbleeder.com/

Good post though Nevada just passing on a few tips from my experience.

Habs
 
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Powerhungry
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Just some tips/thoughts pertaining to Nevada's post.

You can release the pedal/lever if and only if the tube is below the level of the fluid in the catch pan/jar. In fact if the res is empty you could put new fluid in something clean and then submerge the end of the tubing in the fluid.

If you're having a hard time bleeding anything you can reroute the tubing into the reservoir and just cycle the pedal/lever back and forth with the bleeder screw open the whole time.

Check these out. Super slick makes bleeding brakes fool proof.

http://www.speedbleeder.com/

Good post though Nevada just passing on a few tips from my experience.

Habs
yep, good point.

i just always try to make it a habit, to never release it, until the valve is closed.

ive heard of those before. do they really work that well? and..do you leave them ON once ur done bleeding? im guessing u have to swap them out when you're done.
ive always done it the manual way...
 

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yep, good point.

i just always try to make it a habit, to never release it, until the valve is closed.

ive heard of those before. do they really work that well? and..do you leave them ON once ur done bleeding? im guessing u have to swap them out when you're done.
ive always done it the manual way...
I haven't tried them yet but I'm thinking as long as they're closed they're the same as a normal bleeder screw. If you look the ball acts as a check valve when pressure is applied but if they're seated ie tightened the fluid doesn't have any way to escape.

Would make bleeding a car or trailer super easy and a one man job.

Some modern sportbikes have a bleeder right on the master cylinder if it does always bleed it first then go back after bleeding the calipers and bleed it again.

Habs
 
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Powerhungry
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I haven't tried them yet but I'm thinking as long as they're closed they're the same as a normal bleeder screw. If you look the ball acts a check valve when pressure is applied but if they're seated ie tightened the fluid doesn't have any way to escape.

Would make bleeding a car or trailer super easy and a one man job.

Some modern sportbikes have a bleeder right on the master cylinder if it does always bleed it first then go back after bleeding the calipers and bleed it again.

Habs
ah, ok. i didnt read up on them. i knew they worked with the check ball. wasnt sure if it was while TIGHT, or if they had to be cracked open, like a regular bleeder.
yeh, i did mention to do the MC first, if applicable.
oh, and feel free to add the tips, and suggestions to the BRAKE bleed thread. i dont mind.;)
 

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No big deal just trying to help a fellow rider out.

Habs
 
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