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Discussion Starter #1
Okay, this is a continuance of some of the posts taht i have had on here. Basdically what happens is this. 1st gear, used to be able to only hit like 5 grand. Rode it for about 40 miles or so and will go to 9 now. Once it hits a certai point it starts to "jump" almost like you are going to fast in like first and let off the throttle how it jerks like that, but when it jerks forward it accellorates. 2nd I can hit like 6 grand and the rest is history. Still cuts off and 5. If it were some sort of fuel delivery issue, wouldn't all the gears be limited to that low of RPM's? I have exhausted EVERY idea I can think of. Did new plugs, oil change, coolant topped off, fuel filter on the way, new gas ran thru it etc. Still nothing is helping. I do NOT want to have to take it to a mechanic. The labor rates are horrible. Is it hard to clean the cabs if I wanted to try to do taht? That is the last thing that ran thru my mind, but wanted to know if it was too tough? I just need SOMEONES opinion to help me out here. Hopefully this sounds familiar or easy to someone. Thanks a ton.

Naz :cool:
 

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You can clean the carbs yourself. I would get a factory servie manual. They only cost something like $30. There are a few things you can do while you are at it that will improve driveability like opening up the pilot screws a little and maybe put a couple of washers under the needles.
 

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Maybe the fuel line or tank valve is gummed up? I'm just guessing about fuel. Could definitly be spark though, and that would explain the different RPM limits, as the engine is under more load in the higher gears. Take it to a dealer and pay for their "inspect and report". Shouldn't be more than an hour and $40 or $50 depending on where you live. If I was this frustrated, that's where I'd be headed.

-gary
'02 6R
 

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Wait until that new fuel filter arrives before you try anything new. While you have the filter off, you might want to test the fuel pump, I remember something about the pumps being bad in a bunch of people's bikes.

What year is your bike again? I can't remember if you mentioned that or not...

BC.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It is a 2000 ZX6R. Green (the fastest color by the way). Pics to come soon. I am going to do the fuel filter thing, and someone once told me if the bike is over filled with oil it may act this way. Lemme just do a double check here, the bike needs to be OFF and level and the line should be at the top line on the window right? Not running while checking it though. I just wanted to make sure of that, I am kind of newer to the whole motorcycle scene. If the filter does not work, how can I test the fuel pump? any easy way to do it or take it to a dealer to have them do it? Thanks a bunch for the replies by the way. I am always lookin for new ideas.

Naz :cool:
 

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If the bike was overfilled with oil it can be a real mess. Happened once on my 250 (only holds ~2L of oil LOL). Anyway, it seeped out the air filter, gummed the carbs, bike ran like absolute sh!t. Start by checking the oil level I'd say.
 

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When you put the called for 4 quarts of oil it only comes up to the bottom line. Anywhere between the bottom line and top line is O.K. For maximum horsepower it is probably better to run it near the minimum. I run mine about half way between the two.

To check the fuel pump just bypass the filter temporarily by getting a longer piece of tubing to go from the petcock directly to the fuel pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
OK - I checked it out this AM. Even though it was freezing, I got my hapy @ss out there and checked it out. This is the thing, since I got it from the dealer, it has been over filled by at LEAST a quart and a half. That is very bad, I know this. The new fuel filter did not do anything for me. The old one was fine. AS far as the oil thing with the leaking out goes, I think that may be right on target. This is prety stupid question, but I dont' even know where to begin on cleaning the carbs. Where are they for starters, how many (4?) and what do I need to look for when cleaning them? If it is TOO difficult I may just have my local bike shop do it. If it is not (and remember that I am **somewhat** mechanically inclined) then I will tackle it myself, but I realy dont' want to tear into something like that untill I know for SURE I know what I am doing. Any steps on where to find them and how to do it would be awsome!

Naz :cool:
 

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The carbs aren't hard to clean. The dealer will rape you and probably not do a good job. When you do it yourself you know it is right.

There are four carbs but they are connected together and you will probably want to leave them that way during cleaning. CV carbs are very simple but you want to keep the parts from the different carbs for getting mixed up.

To get to the carbs take off the tank and then the airbox. Now you will be able to see them. To get them off you just loosen the four clamps on the intake boots (they are hard to see, you might just have to feel for them) and then pull the carbs off. Then you can remove the throttle cables, choke cable and fuel line.

You might want to keep you eye out for some carbs on eBay. I just bought like new carbs and rear shock for mine for $100. I bought them as spare parts because the carb parts are very expensive. Just one diaphram (there are four) cost about $100.
 

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Don't forget to check/clean out your airbox & filter while your doing the carbs, they're likely oiled up now too.



Edited by - Grunt_99 on 01/11/2003 14:35:25
 

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Discussion Starter #11
OK - this is where I am at now. I got the tank off, the airbox is off and now I can see 4 little (forgive the sooo technical words) like tube things. The 2 in the middle seem to be raised more. Is taht the top of the carbs, or does that come off from those clips and they are under there? And once I ahve those off are there bolts that hold the carbs on? Seems like more than clips should hold them on there? And as far as keeping them connected, is that just so that they go back on the same place they came off of and I don't get them mixed up? Are they not a bit harder to clean if you keep them together? And I checked the air box/filter. Not oily at all, but it is still eating at me so I am going to clean the carbs also. I jsut wanna make sure I get this right. And good thought on the whole dealer thing. I am sure they WOULD rape me on the charges. Any suggestions on what to clean them with once they ARE off or maybe tools to clean them with? And going back on with them, do I have to re adjust them somehow or something along those lines? I heard something about making sure they are "in sync" or something like that? Or maybe that was something completely different and I am just WAY off track.

Naz :cool:
 

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O.K., once the airbox is off you will see the business end of the four carbs with four black rubber thingies (velocity stacks). If you look down one of the holes you will see a round looking thing. You should be able to lift that up with you finger. On the bottom of that is the needle everyone is always talking about.

Anyway, if you take a flashlight and peer down between the carbs you will see that they are attached to the engine with four rubber boots about the size of a radiator hose. The bottom is bolted to the engine. On the top next to the carb is a kind of hose clamp with a phillips head screw. Those four clamps hold the carbs on. They are a bitch to get at and the clamps have to be positioned just right when putting the carbs back on. Take those four clamps loose and you will be able to wiggle the carbs loose.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Allright, I think I am going to give this a shot. When you talked about the needle, is that part of the carb itself or not? And when I have them off, what about shimming them when I put them back on?

Also, is this going to be the type of thing where I need to take the carb down into multiple pieces and clean it or can I just soak it in some sort of solvent to clean it and that will be good enough?

Sorry to make this such a pain, but i am kind of anal when it comes to small thigns like this and want to make for sure I don't mess up any parts and end up having to buy some new parts!!!<img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>

Again, thanks millions for all your help.

Naz :cool:
 

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You will need to take all the bits and pieces off each individual carb and leave the carb bodies connected together. They make special carb cleaner (Gunk Hydroseal is one) that you can soak the carbs in. Make sure to keep all the bits and pieces from the indivual carbs seperate. Be very careful with the rubber diaphram that is under the black plastic cap and is attached to the piston and needle. These run about $100 apiece if you damage one. While you have them apart is easy to shim the needles. All you need is som #4 brass washers.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
ok, I got em off!!!:D:D:D

Now to get them inot little pieces is my question. it looks like, if you look at it from the end of the black caps beign up, that there is not much that WILL come off. I am all paranoid to even mess with the rubber things under the caps too. There are 4 "plates" on at the bottom of each, adn those look like they will come off, but they screw are in SOOOO tight, can not get them out. Please let me know soon what I can do to get them into parts so taht I can get these big dawgs back on. [:p]

Naz :cool:
 

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The first thing you might want to do is take off one of the float bowls and see if it looks clean or dirty inside. If it is all gunked up you will want to clean the carbs. If not you might want to leave them alone. There are four little phillips screws holding the each float bowl on. They are a bitch to get off sometimes. I always loosen them with a pair of visegrips first. Anytime I put a screw back I put some anti-seize on it so it will come out next time.

Make sure you keep the parts seperate for the different carbs. I use seperate zip lock bags.

After you get the float bowl off you can see most of the good stuff. You sill be able to see the main jets, the needle valve, float, etc.

If you decide to clean the carbs you will want to take all the jets, and the float and needle out. Be especially careful not to get the main jets mixed up because the center carbs have different jets than the outside carbs.

On the other end take off the four phillips screws that hold on the black plastic cap. Inder it is the diaphram attached to the piston and needle. You can lift it out by the little ear. Be very careful because they can get stuck to the carb body over time. Remember that they cost $100 apiece. Once the rubber parts is seperated from the carb body you can lift out the piston and needle. Be careful not to damage the needle.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
yes, the float bowl screws ARE horrid to get off. I am going to get on it and try to get them off though, maybe using the vice grip idea. Now, then I have the bowls off, and I take out the diapram and also the needle and the jets etc. do I ned to soak the bodies connectd together in some sort of soaking solutin? or do I just clean the passages, and let that be good?

Naz :cool:
 

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If I had them that far I would go ahead and soak them. The best stuff is called Gunk Hydroseal. Be careful with it because it also removes skin and fingernails. Make sure you have everything off the carbs that isn't metal before dipping them.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
K, I got the float bowl off of one end now. I see a little plastic thing ( am assuming the float?) and three rods with holes in the center (jets?) The 2 on the left are large and have slots in the top like you can take them out wtih a flat head screw driver. the one on the very right is very small with no slot. do these need to come out before I soak?

Naz :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
actually, after looking at the inside of the float bowls, thses things look really clean. I don't honeslty think they need cleaned at all. I checked all 4 and them all seem to be almost spotless inside of the float bowl. I don't think for some reason this was the problem...:(so it is going back together here quick and I'll let ya know how it came out. I did not soak them cuz all the passages seemed to be really free of anything, so I guess it is on the next idea.........

Naz :cool:
 
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