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Discussion Starter #1
Just like last night, I'm posting this thread mainly so it will appear easily in a search, with a specific answer I couldn't find when I searched.

I've seen a few people recommend this or that slider, with Motovation being in the minority. The appeal of these is that the slider on the right side (while sitting on the bike) doesn't put the force onto the end of that weird little engine-position adjuster thing. These have a machined sleeve that goes over that adjuster and puts the stress directly on the frame, where others can potentially bend that adjuster. When that adjuster gets bent, you have to drop the engine to remove and replace it. Of course, that doesn't mean these are better for it -- I honestly don't know, I'm not an engineer and don't know the direction/type/magnitude of the forces involved here, so for all I know these will bend the frame instead of the adjuster, which would be way worse. My gut says that they won't, and this is the best method. But my gut also told me it wanted those fried shrimp earlier this evening, and that isn't working out worth a damn. Anyway, here are pics of the slider so you can see the sleeve that goes over that adjuster, as I've not seen pics of them installed on here in my searches. I'll also tack on a pic or two of the other side, mainly because I'm damn proud of how well I cut and dressed the fairing :D

The long aluminum piece you see is basically a machined piece of tubing that goes around the funky 4-pronged nut and threaded adjuster snout so that its edges touch the frame, putting the stress of a drop on the frame. Outward of that hollow portion, it's solid aluminum that slides into the back of the Delrin stub, with the bolt coming in from the outer end of the Delrin to secure both the Delrin to the aluminum base, and the base to the bike. The bolt runs through the frame and engine mount and uses the stock nut on the other end, just like every other slider I've seen.





And here is the other side. Pretty much looks like every other cut-style slider over here.


 

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Looks great, works great and the best investment for any sportbike... two thumbs up!

BTW... that's my bike LOL.. the one i want anyway... 06 black ZX6R
 

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Nice! how much where from?

need some knobs for my baby, on the plus side i scored a puig db black windsheild for the bike this mornin, $73 usd, plus 28 for shipping, still 130 aud cheaper than buying one over here.

Ebay has its moments.
 

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nice man! i just put my motovation sliders on last week. Im glad someone else went with the sliders ive been recommending!

and also someone that fully understands the purpose of how the right side slider from motovatin is made and why its made like that compared to others.

Also Motovation uses grade 12.9 bolts instead of grade 8. As strong as grade 8 is, the ones on my vortex slider bent when i went down.

and another thing, Motovation actually doesnt use derlin, they use High Molecular Density (HMD) which they say is actually alot better than derlin

edt - looks like you went with Motovation all the way around... frame sliders, fork sliders, and bar ends! nice haha. I picked up a shirt of theirs when i bought my frame sliders and love it. Looks great.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Originally posted by stylin97
nice man! i just put my motovation sliders on last week. Im glad someone else went with the sliders ive been recommending!

and also someone that fully understands the purpose of how the right side slider from motovatin is made and why its made like that compared to others.

Also Motovation uses grade 12.9 bolts instead of grade 8. As strong as grade 8 is, the ones on my vortex slider bent when i went down.

and another thing, Motovation actually doesnt use derlin, they use High Molecular Density (HMD) which they say is actually alot better than derlin

edt - looks like you went with Motovation all the way around... frame sliders, fork sliders, and bar ends! nice haha. I picked up a shirt of theirs when i bought my frame sliders and love it. Looks great.
Yeah, I figured what the hell, get 'em all. The fork sliders are probably useless, but they're cheaper than every part they're near, maybe there will be some unusual situation where they help.
 

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Excuse the nasty attached image of my slider.

I have R&G racing sliders which have a notched sleeve which matches the engine adjuster nut. The pic is the result of a lowside and hitting a nasty ripple strip on the edge of the track. Hence the 90 degree bend. :(

But my point is, as you can see the bolt was the sacrifical piece that gave way without damaging the frame, engine mount or adjuster.


 

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Nice man!! well just ordered my sliders and weighted bar ends, thanks to this post!!!!
 

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Man those look sweet. Just out of curiosity what did you use to cut the fairing, measure the hole, and what did you use for the trimming? (If you could post a little how-to that would be great) I am actually ordering those sliders in a week or so, or once I get some bills paid.
 

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Originally posted by NB
Excuse the nasty attached image of my slider.

I have R&G racing sliders which have a notched sleeve which matches the engine adjuster nut. The pic is the result of a lowside and hitting a nasty ripple strip on the edge of the track. Hence the 90 degree bend. :(

But my point is, as you can see the bolt was the sacrifical piece that gave way without damaging the frame, engine mount or adjuster.
hmm... so the bolt bent right before the sleeve? and the R&G ones have a sleeve that go OVER the engine mount nut and against the frame?

looks like they worked perfect then and didnt cause any damage to the engine mount adjuster.
 

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Originally posted by bolfingpgw
Man those look sweet. Just out of curiosity what did you use to cut the fairing, measure the hole, and what did you use for the trimming? (If you could post a little how-to that would be great) I am actually ordering those sliders in a week or so, or once I get some bills paid.
Go to this page it should help you out.. I had the same problem :D
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Originally posted by bolfingpgw
Man those look sweet. Just out of curiosity what did you use to cut the fairing, measure the hole, and what did you use for the trimming? (If you could post a little how-to that would be great) I am actually ordering those sliders in a week or so, or once I get some bills paid.

It takes a lot of trial fitting, but it's really not that hard. I cut it with a sanding drum on a dremel - works great, as it cuts slowly enough that you won't jerk off line by accident, and it kind of melts its way through so the edge stays nice.

First I taped the entire area with masking tape, then cut just the tip of the fairing off around the bolt (fairing still on bike.) I figured that would give me a reference point. Then I took the fairing off, held the end of the slider into the notch I just cut, and then traced around it on the tape with a pencil. Then I sat the slider aside and free-handed a matching arc about 1/2" inside the one I just traced - figured I'd rather cut too little than too much. Then I mounted the slider on the bike, cut to the first notch, and tried it on. Way too small. So I opened it up a little more. Repeated that a few times, checking to see what areas were touching to help me get the shape of the cut perfect. Once it would fit just perfectly outside the slider, I took it off again, free-handed another line about 1/4" outside of the edge, and opened the hole up evenly around. That gave me room for the rubber door edge molding (for the edge of a car door - get some at a parts store for ~$2) to make it look a little more finished.

That's pretty much all there is to it. There's a How-To in the FAQ forum on here, but I don't like the way he used the masking tape. He used it to mark his cut line (you'll see in his pics,) where I covered the whole area with tape and drew my cut lines with a pencil. That way you're cutting through the tape and the plastic - the idea there is that the tape will keep paint and plastic from trying to splinter when cutting, old body-man trick. Cutting with the sanding drum wouldn't likely make it splinter, but the tape is nice to have there just in case.
 

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Better for the bolt to bend than snap/bend the frame mount location off... The bolt is as much sacrificial (as long as it doesn't brake off) as the slider is.
 

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I like the look of these better than my Vortex sliders that I have not installed.. May put them up for sale and get the Motivation sliders. I have spools I haven't installed either..

Hmmm
 

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Just helped my friend install these on his bike. Very nice product. He also has the front fork sliders and the rear spools from Motovation. Great product and not a bad price either. 170 shipped for all three.
 

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Originally posted by bluespecv03
Just helped my friend install these on his bike. Very nice product. He also has the front fork sliders and the rear spools from Motovation. Great product and not a bad price either. 170 shipped for all three.
That was me! Thanks for the help things always go better with two people. Also thanks for giving me the motovation to start it hahaha (really bad pun) I wish I had a template to cut the plastic with but mine didn't turn out too bad, took to much off the top where I didn't need it lol. When I do bluespecv03's I'll be able to use mine as a template so it goes much faster and smoother. Motovation is a great company and I love their products, I've got now all the sliders and the bar ends, they were great in handling my bar ends rusting, sent me new ones right away. I definetely recomend them to everyone on here!
 

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Originally posted by woncrzymof0
i got ones that were no cut.. thank god, cutting fairings sucks... and my are carbon fiber, they match my pipe and swingarm sliders..
cutting the fairings is easy.

just take your time.
 

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Originally posted by woncrzymof0
i got ones that were no cut.. thank god, cutting fairings sucks... and my are carbon fiber, they match my pipe and swingarm sliders..
They are great until you actually crash, and the bracket bends and the slider does nothing to save your bike...

They arent for looks.
 
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