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What different tactics can be used to negotiate a good price for a motorcycle or any other type of vehicle?
 

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Labia Grappler
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3,744 Posts
Call LOTS of dealers within a 250 mile radius of where you are planning to purchase and compare prices. Then use those prices to bargain with. I bought my 06' ZX-6R in February of 07'. The dealer that was 2nd closest to me originally wanted full retail. When I said no ... they reduced it to $8500. I said no again ... they dropped to $8100 or $8150 (can't remember) and said that was the lowest they could go. I called a whole boat load of dealers and found one dealer in this little tiny town that was about 200 miles away that said he would sell the one they had for $7600 out the door. I took that back to the dealer I was originally working with and said the following:

"I have a dealer located 200 miles from here that will sell to me the EXACT same bike for $7600 which is a $500 savings from what you have offered me as your lowest price. I know it will cost me $$$ for gas and will be about a 5 hour trip to go and get the bike ... so taking that into account ... I am offering $7725 for YOUR bike and NO more."

They came back and said they can do $8000 but that was the lowest they can do. I replied that I would just make the trip to the other dealer and buy the other bike for $7600. After making that statement ... they caved and sold it to me for $7725. Normally, I would have just gone to the other dealer and bought the bike from the guy that HONESTLY gave me his lowest price ... but I REALLY didn't want to drive 400 miles round trip that weekend.
 

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Premium Member
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10,463 Posts
Key, ability to walk is a sure thing.
next biggest thing is research your TARGET!
have cash in hand or pre-arranged financing like a bank draft with you fill in the price.
that way it is walk in no bike-ride out or load up a new a bike

The cash/bank check has helped me on numerous occaisions...they dont have to spend as much time with you and dont have to get any approvals.
Good luck with what your looking for.
 

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fap-o-caster
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50,488 Posts
the only thing you could stand a zero negotiation price is with brand new redesigned model. Dealers will take the high demand for the 'totally new' model and claim that because of that, they are not discounting them, much like why I've never seen a single dealership offer an 08 or 09 250 for the msrp otd. if you are putting $$ down on any new bike that isn't out yet, I would think that the bigger amount you put down, the harder they will want to part with it, if you decide to walk. I put down 4K for my new R1 which will probably come in Feb I'm thinking. Their prelim pricing is showing like 14k otd, which I told htem was way too high. I'm not financing, am paying cash. if they don't give it to me for 13 flat, I walk and they will have to give me back my 4K. No dealership can take portion of downpayment, they'll sell the bike regardless.
 

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Now is the time.....I bought my '06 on December 22, 2006. I had been looking for 9 months, so patience is on your side. They wanted to get the bike out the door before they had to pay inventory tax on it. Bought the bike for cost.
 

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A sawed off shot gun to there face

get that shit fo free 99 lol
 

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Premium Member
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Here's your negotiation tip

Step 1 - Figure out how much you want to pay for said vehicle in question

Step 2 - Go to Dealership

Step 3 - Look at price of said vehicle in question

Step 4 - If the price of said vehicle is in question is lower than price you want to pay for said vehicle in question, shut the fuck up and take it. If not, proceed to Step 5.

Step 5 - Tell salesman, "I want to pay $XXXX for said vehicle in question now give it to me for this price."

Step 6 - If salesman complies, shut the fuck up and take it. If not, proceed to Step 7.

Step 7 - If salesman does not comply, tell him to fuck off and walk out. Go elsewhere.

Step 8 - Salesman may decide to give you said vehicle in question for price you want to pay for said vehicle in question. If he does, shut the fuck up and take it. If not, proceed to Step 9.

Step 9 - Keep walking.


:Hmmmm:
 

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unless the salesman you speak of has big hooters then its okay to pay $XXXX + 200. +400 if you get to see them.
Eff that, man! I can SEE hooters on my computer screen.

Now if you can TOUCH said hooters, then well... Maybe you can make a deal.

:bonk:
 

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ability to walk IS a key. I did that with my 05' 636 and the dude literally came running out to stop me before I got in my cage. They offered me close enough to what I wanted (the only way i could have gotten that was to drive 100 miles to LA county..not worth it at the time) so I took it. There can be a huge difference from dealer to dealer, even in the same city.
 

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2002 ZX6R
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The walk thing is always the biggest tool to use, but only as a last resort.
If you plan on financing get it approved by your bank first. Don't go with their banks. Also never tell them a monthly payment you want. Always negotiate total price.
One of my favorite things to do is to tell the salesperson that he only gets 1 trip to talk to his manager, if he tries to go a second time I get up to leave at the same time.

But before you do this make sure you do the research to know what a fair price is on what you're buying. And make sure you understand that what you want and what you want to pay may not work out. ie you're not gonna get a brand new supersport machine for $5k. Being reasonable about your offer makes a big difference in how flexible they will try to be with you. And as said above if you can find it cheaper at a different dealer use that as leverage, otherwise just go buy it at the other dealer.
I traveled 3 hours away to buy my bike.
 

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A lot of good advice here, but I'll add a tip too. Contrary to what some have said, just because you have all the cash in hand does not mean you're going to get a better prcie (generally speaking). A lot (most?) of dealers get kickbacks for writing financing contracts, so are more willing to "make a deal" on the total purchase price cause they're gonna bend you over on financing. SO. Say you have cash, keep that little gem a secret. Tell them you're only willing to pay XX (always start lower than what you are really willing to pay). If they know you're financing they will often give you a better deal. Write the contract once you agree on a price, and ride home. In a month or two, pay tyhe whole thing off. The 2 benefits are 1. lower selling price, and 2. you now have a paid off loan on your credit report, which looks good for you. Of course, what works at one dealer may not work at another.
 

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fap-o-caster
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unless the salesman you speak of has big hooters then its okay to pay $XXXX + 200. +400 if you get to see them.
my salesperson who I'm getting the R1 from is a chick. I may try to apply this when the bike actually arrives.
 

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#1: the ability to walk out
#2: the fucked up economy & the fact that your buying a TOY
#3: lack of sales due to weather (depending on where you live)
#4: ebay ;)
 
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