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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone,

Well, I did a stupid thing last night. I went for a ride and stopped to fill up on gas. I didn't quite get close enough to the pump, but figured I could still manage. I was doing good until I went to put the nozzle away after filling it up. As I pulled the nozzle out and went to put it away, I somehow hit my key with my other hand while it was still in the gas cap. This, of course, bent it out of shape, but at least it didn't break off. I thought nothing of it, bent it back best I could, but when I went to put it in the ignition, it no longer fit. :confused: I noticed the key was sort of twisted. I spent 10 minutes sitting there reshaping my key until it finally fit (after using considerable force). It got me home and I quickly found my spare. I don't trust the bent key now... feels like it'll snap at any moment.

Question is: How much do new keys run? Do you just go to the dealership or are there other places to get them?

Thanks!
 

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I'd go to the dealership if you have your key number. That way it's an exact fit, not a copy. One of the few things I would actually go to a dealership for...
-Cody
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'm not sure why, but I thought our keys were electronically keyed as well. It turns out they are not. So, I'm going to check with the dealership first. If they cost a ridiculous amount, I'll just go to a locksmith and get a couple of copies made and keep one in my gear in case this sort of thing happens again. Thanks guys.
 

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I thought our keys were electronically keyed as well. It turns out they are not.
They are coded in the UK. Can not just go to a locksmith and have a copy cut. You have to have the master key and go to the dealer for a new one cut. There is only one company in the UK that I know of, who will code and cut a key with out a master key.
 

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That's odd that the UK has coded keys and the US doesnt.
-Cody
 

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Hey everyone,

Well, I did a stupid thing last night. I went for a ride and stopped to fill up on gas. I didn't quite get close enough to the pump, but figured I could still manage. I was doing good until I went to put the nozzle away after filling it up. As I pulled the nozzle out and went to put it away, I somehow hit my key with my other hand while it was still in the gas cap. This, of course, bent it out of shape
Rook!
 

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zxx6rr,
2011 ZX6R here as well. I believe the keys are indeed electronically coded. The manual does state that if you turn off the ignition, you should wait for at least 5 seconds to give the immobilizer time to sync (not in those exact words but similar).

So unless they are just reprinting the same manual for the US in order to save $$, which I doubt, I'd be cautious.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
zxx6rr,
2011 ZX6R here as well. I believe the keys are indeed electronically coded. The manual does state that if you turn off the ignition, you should wait for at least 5 seconds to give the immobilizer time to sync (not in those exact words but similar).

So unless they are just reprinting the same manual for the US in order to save $$, which I doubt, I'd be cautious.
Hmm, my manual simply states to bring the original key to a dealer to be copied, or use the key tag if the key is lost. It doesn't mention anything about being electronically coded or waiting 5 seconds. :Hmmmm:

I went to a couple of places yesterday and both attempted to make a key, but the blanks they used were actually too thick. The Kawi key is very thin, which explains why it is so pliable. I will call the dealership later this morning to order a new spare and I'll post what they say in case anyone else ends up needing the info.
 

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zxx6rr,
2011 ZX6R here as well. I believe the keys are indeed electronically coded. The manual does state that if you turn off the ignition, you should wait for at least 5 seconds to give the immobilizer time to sync (not in those exact words but similar).

So unless they are just reprinting the same manual for the US in order to save $$, which I doubt, I'd be cautious.
Probably because the transponder is in the ignition cylinder itself, not the actual key. That way you can't just 'hot wire' it.
-Cody
 

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If the keys are electronically coded, that means the ones on eBay will not work? Just seeing it as an option as I also wanted to get another key made.

Kawi Blank Key
 

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I can tell you for a fact that any ole key blank will work to have a new one cut.

I bought my race bike as a total loss with no key and had the local locksmith make a new one and it works just fine with a generic key blank. No chip no nothing.

The imobilizer is only in Europe if I'm not mistaken.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The results are in!

Dealership:
"All 2011 Kawasaki's have specially crafted keys that need to be preordered at $25/each. The bike then has to be brought in so they can pair the key with it". I asked them if a local locksmith could just copy them and they said "probably not". Since there was doubt, I called the locksmith.

Locksmith:
"Bring us the key, we'll make more for you".
Five minutes after I arrived, I had two new keys that worked perfectly for a total of $16.80.

So, in reading the manual, service guide, and posts here, it appears there is an immobilizer option. , but not all bikes have them. It does not state clearly which bikes have this option (by region anyway), but it does show a procedure of how you can adjust whether or not the immobilizer light remains blinking after the bike is turned off. The procedure is to push the mode and reset buttons at the same time for 2 seconds within 20 seconds after the bike is turned off. If nothing happens, then you don't have the immobilizer.

It sounds as though my dealership thinks ALL new Kawi's have the immobilizer. I think they are simply misinformed. Anyway, if you go to a real locksmith, you can get keys made, as long as you don't have the immobilizer. If you do have the immobilizer and you get a key from a locksmith, it will fit and turn, but the bike won't start.

One final note, big chain stores like Wal-Mart have a key blank that "fits" (they refer to it as "slot 21"), but their blank is too thick and will not fit the ignition. It only cost me $1.50 to find this out so I thought I'd share. Any chain store with the "dummy proof" systems will be the same.

The locksmith used a blank by a company called SILCA from Italy. The number on it is KW16CP.
 

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Like I said, the immobilizer is in the key cylinder, NOT the key. And yes, they do have them. All of them.
-Cody
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Like I said, the immobilizer is in the key cylinder, NOT the key. And yes, they do have them. All of them.
-Cody
I do not think that is correct, at least for the 2009-2011 model. Maybe I'm missing something, but I am looking at it in the Service Manual as I type this (Section 16-70). It is a whole separate section for the immobilizer with "equipped models" next to it, which to me, means not all bikes are equipped with them.

It goes on to state that models which do have the immobilizer do require specially coded keys. The keys contain a built in transponder programmed with a code that matches the ECU. "If the code does not match, the ignition system, injectors, subthrottle valve actuator, and exhaust butterfly valve actuator will not operate and the engine will not start." The key transponder is programmed using a tool called a "Key Registration Unit: 57001-1582". One Master and five user keys can be programmed to one immobilizer.

Since my new keys start the engine, that confirms that my bike does not have the immobilizer system, or if it does, it is not enabled.
 

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I do not think that is correct, at least for the 2009-2011 model. Maybe I'm missing something, but I am looking at it in the Service Manual as I type this (Section 16-70). It is a whole separate section for the immobilizer with "equipped models" next to it, which to me, means not all bikes are equipped with them.

It goes on to state that models which do have the immobilizer do require specially coded keys. The keys contain a built in transponder programmed with a code that matches the ECU. "If the code does not match, the ignition system, injectors, subthrottle valve actuator, and exhaust butterfly valve actuator will not operate and the engine will not start." The key transponder is programmed using a tool called a "Key Registration Unit: 57001-1582". One Master and five user keys can be programmed to one immobilizer.

Since my new keys start the engine, that confirms that my bike does not have the immobilizer system, or if it does, it is not enabled.
Right. There's a version of the bike that comes with the key immobilizer. But the US models don't have that. But there's still an immobilizer in the ignition cylinder itself that passes through a set of resistances so you can't hot wire the bike to start...like I've said 2x already...
-Cody
 

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Hmm, my manual simply states to bring the original key to a dealer to be copied, or use the key tag if the key is lost. It doesn't mention anything about being electronically coded or waiting 5 seconds.
Opps you are absolutely correct. There is no mention of an immobilizer in our manuals. I skimmed that off a ZX600R9F.pdf service manual I downloaded, end even then the 5 seconds was for something else unrelated. My bad on the false info.
 

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What sucks is that you can't get a new key made at Walmart, Lowe's, etc. You gotta go to an actual lock smith. I ordered a key blank off of ebay, but the lock smith wouldn't use it. She said they had to use one of their blanks (which I didn't know they'd even had).
 

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Right. There's a version of the bike that comes with the key immobilizer. But the US models don't have that. But there's still an immobilizer in the ignition cylinder itself that passes through a set of resistances so you can't hot wire the bike to start...like I've said 2x already...
-Cody
bump for correct info
 
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