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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 1998 zx9r that needed frame work due to an accident...well im finally starting to put it together now and its almost back together.

here is my problem...when I try to turn the bike over all I hear is the fuel pump and nothing else. When I jump the starter relay it cranks but still no spark. It's not the starter relay though bc i've already replaced that.

when i put the bike in first it still says its in neutral also...no matter what gear its in my neutral light is always on.

also my horn does not work...dont know if this would have anything to do with it...before I took the engine out it tried to turn over just fine by pushing the ignition switch so im thinking something is wired incorrect. Neutral switch is wired correct and I believe I have all the grounds but possibly not.

I have been tryin to figure this out for a few weeks now and i have no idea what it could be. any help is greatly appreciated. thanks in advance.
 

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just a question, but have you checked the kickstand safety? I have a wiring diagram around here somewhere if you need it. sounds like something is indeed wired wrong as that neutral light is always on
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Yup, the wire from that is going to the sensor on the engine itself i believe, blue wire if i remember right, looks just like the wire for the neutral switch.
 

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Frame work.. i'd have to assume the frame had some welding done?? if so...

i would imediately suspect A. the welder didn't disconnect the ECU and battery when he started welding and fried it... and B. the welder (even tho probably using TIG.. I would..) may have burnt a wire or had a spall roll off and burn the harness.

if there was no welding done to the frame, remove your wire of the neutral switch. if the light goes out, you've got a bad switch or hanging mechanism.. if it stays on, trace out where the wire goes and chances are you'll see somewhere where it's shorted to ground. it won't come on with positive voltage applied. it's a ground-reference circuit. the pwer is already thru the bulb and waiting for a negative connection (to the case, i this instance) to be made.

now, i may be wrong, but for a long time and on most bikes, kawi made the #1/#4 coil pack the fuel pump channel as well. the relay was an SCR or swtiching transistor in it that takes the coil's high voltage and uses it to trigger a switching transistor that flows 12 V to the pump.. i want to say that your biek tho has 4 coilpacks? if it does, i'd have to look up how it's powered. the FP relay may have it's own timing and pulse circuit, or may be a stand-alone deal.. if it's like my 7-R and you have 2 coils, the left coil (1/4 cylinders) will also power the fuel pump relay, which in turn powers the pump. if the relay is shot, it can drain off ignition power and you'll lose spark.... wait. assist on the deal..lol.. 4 coils..



the coil resistance is- primary resistance is .85~1.15 ohms, secondary windings 9.6~14.4 kohms.

i'm not sure yet what drives the pump. if its independant or ignition driven.. if i find out, i'll edit this..

hopefully its something simple like a reversed harness plug (on th wrong wires).. figured i'd take my pessimistic, complicated route.. lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
i had everything on the frame removed prior to welding so nothing was damage....i will hafta try the rest tomorrow when I go to work on it. thank you again and ppl please keep chiming in, im thinking im missing a ground or sumthing to do with the neutral switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
it only cranks when I hook the starter up straight to power...with the starter relay hooked up i go to push the ignition and the fuel pump stats pumping but nothing else. starter relay and all the fuses are good though.
 

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sounds like the the wires for the temp gage and neutral light may be swaped around. Temp sender is on lower left side, of the back of the block and the neutral sensor is on the bottom of the front sprocket cover area. Since they are both in the same area and have the same style of connector. If the neutral wire is on the temp sender, it will make the light saty on for every gear (but neutral) since it will be grounded thru that. except neutral, where it grounds out. and that may be where you are losing your spark.

Good luck and keep us posted!!

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I dont think that is it because one of the wires wont reach up to the back of the block and the other will...and i think I looked at the manual for the color of the wires...neutral=green, temp=blue. correct me if im wrong. thanks
 

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i dont have anything in front of me right now but i thought it was blue on the neutral?? either way something is grounding wrong and the neutral light is working opposite of what it should. Go un hook both connectors and see what you get. Might have to hold the clutch in to get it to crank tho.

Chris
 

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i just rethought something, im gonna look at something on mine in a bit. im heading out to work on it today.

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I unhooked both of the connectors and the neutral light is still on....also the speedo wire has a white wire that has been broken off of the harness b/c of the accident.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
No idea y, but it magically started working after messing with the wires a lil bit...I happened to be holding the #1 spark plug coil stick, ZAP! neway there must be a short in the harness sumwhere.

I sprayed gas in the carbs and got it to run just fine...oh how I missed that sound.

anyway, I put it all back together and tried starting it, now it cranks and fired a lil from the gas that was still in there from me spraying it....but its not getting any gas, I dont think the fuel pump is working now when I push the start button. I have a full harness coming for my bike anyway but any other reasons y the fuel pump wouldnt work now? thanks again.
 

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YEah you were right about the wire colors, i was out snooping around mine before i striped it down. Sounds like it may just be a break in the harness giving ya fits. New harness sounds like a good idea for ya.

Good luck!

Chris
 

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glad t hear you've got a little hint of an answer.. the fuel pump relay runs off the #1 spark plug coil signal..

remember me tellin ya about the bypass circuit? (from the starter button..) this also bypasses the internals in the relay as well. might wanna make sure you've got power going to the relay (or at least if ot power, check for continuity between the wires running from the coil to the fuel pump relay.. might just have a nasty relay now.. remember, it's solid state, so no amount of smacking it will jar any contacts loose. theres no contacts. .ol

i'd go across the entire harness with a fine tooth comb. inspect it like you're checkin for crabs on a hooker.. well, maybe even MORE thorough than that.. look for sharp edges on the plastic tubing/loom.. this sometiems indicates a stressed point and might reveal broken wired when opened up..look around where the harness comes in close to the sterring travel stop tab on the frame. i had my wire on my 7 get pinched in there and lost my headlights. lost my turn signals when the #1 header burnt a mass of wires together as well.. stupid things that are actually easily overlooked.. the header/wire melt thing.. for example.. just lookin at it, you couldn't tell. the short and burn was on the back side of the main harness.. had to roll it around to see it..

keep us posted and good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ya I got it running after I messed with the wires a bit more...fuel pump is working fine...musta been a open in the circuit sumwhere...oh well, id already bought a wire harness for $30 on ebay bc I needed the connector for the speedo, so i'll throw that on there. I got all winter to work on this thing anyway. thanks again for all the help guys.
 
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