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Discussion Starter #1
so here is the deal.
I got this bike after a wreck and i have rebuilt it.
so now i am having a heck of a time getting it to start.
It only starts when it feels like it and that is not to often
Its an 02 zx9.
It turns over nice and strong and there is gas getting to the plugs but for some reason no spark.
I pulled the plugs and grounded them then turned it over again still no spark/
I tested the coils, the throttle poss, but every thing ckeks out? so I have no clue what to do next. I dont know how to check the IC igniter and I am not sure on all the saftey stops on the bike.
Please help
:mad:
 

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Flick the ignition switch on and off a few times without moving or toutching owt else, if this works it bab contacts in the ignition switch, strip and clean, not an easy job.
 

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test the trigger coil? if theres a cam sensor, ya test that?
whats the gap on the trigger coil? if it was hit and bent away from the rotor, that'll cause that shit to occur.
not much info to go on.
 

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My money is on the CDI box under the seat (well on my 98 that's where it is) proly a lose connection, just my 2cents hope it fixes it for ya ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok I replaced the cdi or tested with a nother one and no chang. I am not sure what the spacing on the "trigger coil" is. I am guessing the trigger coil is the same as the pick up coil?? If not I dont know what it is? I have no specifics in the shitty book I have for this thing it trys to cover way to many years and models.
How can I test the safty switchs? I Have pulled the wire harness and looked at all conections and wires. I have ohm tested the coils but they are very hared to understand and get a good reading on. To test for spark on this bike i pull the plug wire and put a new spark plug in it and lay it on the motor, turn the bike over and I see no spark. Is that a good way to test?
I have been trying this thing for weeks and still nothing!!!!!!
 

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ah... see.. i knew it wasn't the cdi. i snuck over to your house last night and tested it while you were asleep just so i looked smart on here.

trigger coil = crank sensor = pulse generator= pickup coil

easy test.. resistsnce should be about 450 ohms.. i think the range is 44-480 ohms.. i usually see them at abut 450-460. at the connector, its the blk/w and yellow wires. at the coil, its just black and yellow usually.

as far as the gap, thats gonna be between the rotor and the pole piece in the coil assemble. .the little metal round shit facing the rotor. you'll want no more than .0750" there.. no more.. .030 is a good gap. even .050

it's not really an adjustable thing, but with a lil bend here and there, it can be put into "hysteresis".. the working zone of the pickup's magnetic field..thats only if it took a hit.. but it's woth a look to see if the coil has loosened up (seen it..) or if the rotor loosened up ) seen it..)

for the safety shit, i'd get a print of the electrica lsystem, afind if it's a gounding or positive feed system, then go to the "end" of it and do everything you should have to do to start the bike without pulling a clutch or whatever..

that safety lockout consists of a neutral switch ( pulls to ground.. typically actuates the starter lockout relay in the junction box) clutch switch, kickstand switch, and kill switch.

the ks switch, clutch and kill switch all feed thru each other.. the circuit i believe starts at the kill switch,.. should be a yellor/red and red out. positive voltage.. the starter button feeds from the kill switch.

the kickstand switch ground the starter lockout relay as well. i think it might be a green wire with a white stripe.

forgive me not knowing 100% all this shit.. i'm jsut sorta goin off memory of countless kawasaki repairs.

uh.. look at the fuel pump replay too. if it's shorted it'll take out #1 coil channel..

should be 12VDC at all coils.. switched ground.. CDI switches the channels.

ya know,, have you TRIED brand new plugs?
i think i'd do that first as well before all this dumb shit i just metioned. i've seen plugs short so many times it's not funny.

if that doesn't work, post up. we'll go from there.
 

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ah... see.. i knew it wasn't the cdi. i snuck over to your house last night and tested it while you were asleep just so i looked smart on here.

trigger coil = crank sensor = pulse generator= pickup coil

easy test.. resistsnce should be about 450 ohms.. i think the range is 44-480 ohms.. i usually see them at abut 450-460. at the connector, its the blk/w and yellow wires. at the coil, its just black and yellow usually.

as far as the gap, thats gonna be between the rotor and the pole piece in the coil assemble. .the little metal round shit facing the rotor. you'll want no more than .0750" there.. no more.. .030 is a good gap. even .050

it's not really an adjustable thing, but with a lil bend here and there, it can be put into "hysteresis".. the working zone of the pickup's magnetic field..thats only if it took a hit.. but it's woth a look to see if the coil has loosened up (seen it..) or if the rotor loosened up ) seen it..)

for the safety shit, i'd get a print of the electrica lsystem, afind if it's a gounding or positive feed system, then go to the "end" of it and do everything you should have to do to start the bike without pulling a clutch or whatever..

that safety lockout consists of a neutral switch ( pulls to ground.. typically actuates the starter lockout relay in the junction box) clutch switch, kickstand switch, and kill switch.

the ks switch, clutch and kill switch all feed thru each other.. the circuit i believe starts at the kill switch,.. should be a yellor/red and red out. positive voltage.. the starter button feeds from the kill switch.

the kickstand switch ground the starter lockout relay as well. i think it might be a green wire with a white stripe.

forgive me not knowing 100% all this shit.. i'm jsut sorta goin off memory of countless kawasaki repairs.

uh.. look at the fuel pump replay too. if it's shorted it'll take out #1 coil channel..

should be 12VDC at all coils.. switched ground.. CDI switches the channels.

ya know,, have you TRIED brand new plugs?
i think i'd do that first as well before all this dumb shit i just metioned. i've seen plugs short so many times it's not funny.

if that doesn't work, post up. we'll go from there.
So I’m having the same issue and only getting 121.4 ohm to it what do I do to fix that
 
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