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Discussion Starter #1
Today I decided enough babying my ZX with 850 km and the 1000 km inspection so close, so did what the mechanic at the dealer told me to do. Blast the engine to 14000 rpm before bringing it to him. Needless to say, that was the closest thing to an orgasm you can get on a public road :) HOLY SHIT.. that was awesome. I thought the ZX6R was an awesome bike before. At 14000 rpm, it's just a totally different bike. What a rush. So much power. So little skill.. better watch out. This can get addictive.

On a side note, been noticing lately that my first and sometimes second gear is getting kind of "clunky". That is, from standing still, go to first, and then feel a clank, and a slight forward lurch. It didn't use to do that. Also, when moving, and down shifting before a stop into first, also, feel the "clank!". When revving it up higher and shifting from 1st to 2nd, also.. the shift just feels "heavy". It used to be a nimble "click". What happened ?!?!.. I hope I didn't break something already <img src=icon_smile_sad.gif border=0 align=middle>
 

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Fun note, there! On the Baby Ninja 500R it always clanks a bit and jumps forward a tad when I shift, standing still, from neutral to first. I always have the brake lever firmly back. Have you changed what you do? Did you "used to" hold the brake snugly and now do not, so you're noticing a jump that you restrained before? I think the jump is a function of the kind of clutch bikes have. It's perhaps not like the "total disconnect" of an automobile clutch. And I'd bet fresh oil will smooth things out. Also, is your ambient temperature changing? It sure is in the Northeast, and colder oil = thicker oil. You may feel this in the relative smoothness of the clutch operation. And, finally, does your clutch cable/lever need a small adjustment, so it IS pulling the cable all the way to a clean disengagement?

"Abandon All Sloth, Ye Who Enter Here!"
 

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That forward lurch when a cold bike is first dropped into gear is a NORMAL characteristic of a wet clutch equipped bike. Some bikes suffer from this much more than others.

The easiest way to limit, if not eliminate the lurch it to start the bike up in neutral, like normal. When you stop using the choke, and it is down to a normal, stable idle, just pull in the clutch lever, and count to ten. Now try putting the bike in gear. That felt different, didn't it?

Just remember to do this every time you first start up the bike, and you will never have to deal with bike lurch on any future bikes you own.

BC
 

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I noticed a substantial reduction in clunkiness while shifting when I switched to synthetic oil.

Diirk
'99 ZX6R
'02 Raptor
'01 Wolverine
'87 Radian
 

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It is definately a different beast after 10k rpm. I remember a short while ago when I thought VTEC was cool.



My "lurch" engaging 1st gear nearly went away after adjusting the chain.

After the first 600 miles my chain was VERY loose. I actually had to adjust mine in a gas station parking lot without the manual and the factory bag-o-tools. I have been a weekend auto racer for years, and I am a robotics mechanic by trade, so for me it was a fairly strait forward deal. I took it to the local dealer and the tech said it was adjusted perfectly. Not bad for my first ever bike work.

If mechanical repairs aren't your thing, have the dealer or a grease monkey buddy check it out.

Jason
 

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Actually, I only have about 6k on my bike.
I've been carpooling alot lately, so I don't ride as much.

Diirk
'99 ZX6R
'02 Raptor
'01 Wolverine
'87 Radian
 

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Tell me about it, it's embarassing.
I can't ride right now anyhow, I have a good excuse...broken collar bone.
On my last bike I had about 25k miles in the first year.

Diirk
'99 ZX6R
'02 Raptor
'01 Wolverine
'87 Radian
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hey guys.. just an update... the "clank" and forward lurch went away adjusting the chain....
 
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