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I has just purchased 1996 ZX-R6 in great condition. The bike has 25.000 kms. However, he has two questions.

Previous owner has just changed the oil a few days ago but car-grade full-synthetic oil is in the engine now. Should I be in a hurry to change this oil for motorcycle- grade full synthetic oil?

Another question, radiator coolant temperature does not increase further than 20 % of the scale (50 % being the middle of the instrument reading) even under somewhat heavy urban traffic conditions. The outside temperature is around 3-7 C at the moment. Is this the expected behaviour or should the thermostat be inspected and possibly changed?

Thanks for all the replies.
 

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You should not be in a hurry to change your oil. Car-grade full sythetic will work perfectly. And, about your engine temperature gauge...I would get it checked out because I believe it should elevate past 20%...especially in traffic.
 

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Don't worry about coolant temperature either. With everything stock and working properly the temperature gauge will barely read off the first mark when the weather is cool out. I have over half the radiator blocked off on my '95 and it still is about halfway between the first mark and the middle mark. The cooling fan comes on when it reaches the middle mark which is about 200 degrees F.
 

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Not wanting to dispute speedy but I've personally experienced problems with Mobil1 (fully synthetic car oil) in a bike (HondaCBX750 about 12 years ago).
5w50 is far too runny for a gearbox and it put the fear of god into me when I found I couldn't change gear when the bike warmed up, I changed the oil and the problem went away.

Fully synth is a waste of money with 6000km service intervals unless you are track riding and really pushing the bike hard. Kawasaki recommend semi synth10w40 in most of europe, but it depends on how hot or cold the climate is. Many Car oils also have teflon type friction inhibitors as well which can affect the wet clutch in bikes(bike oils don't). I've not personally experienced it but it is a known problem.

My advice to you is don't try and stretch the service intervals out, and do the oil changes every 6k or whatever the book says.

Ash

Ash

Live to ride, Erm Erm, Where are my Car Keys ?
 

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No, it's cool. I was basing my statement on one of the previous threads in the Tech Tips and Help Forum where the general consensus was that there is little difference between car and bike synthetics. Get a quality oil; one that is recommended for your bike; and change your oil at least every three thousand miles and you will be fine.
 

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I would be carefull about using car grade motor oil as you are riding super sports bike, and depending on your style of riding you wouldn't want to be placed in a difficult situation due to using the wrong oil eg. loss of horsepower halfway thruogh a high speed corner due to loss of oil pressure? or loss of drive as you are riding in front of a big truck[8)]!!!
remember your gearbox and your motor share the same oil and is sensitive to friction modifiers or inhibitors as Ash called them.
I've actually read on a local bike magazine's (Australian Motorcycle Trader)tech. section about loosing all drive to their rear wheel while in front of a road train (if you don't know a road train is, it's a big [email protected]#cking interstate truck)simply because they had used car oil.[B)]

Personally i'd use bike oil, and to avoid possible problems.
Don't want to desregard anyone elses opinion just thought i'd share mine.:)

Ride like its your last day[:p], because one day it will be[xx(]
 

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Do NOT use Mobil 1 5w30. It is not wet clutch safe.

I use Mobil1 15w40. It does not have the energy conservation additives. It IS wet clutch safe.

'00 ZX6R silver
 

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Originally posted by Cambridgezx6r


Do NOT use Mobil 1 5w30. It is not wet clutch safe.

I use Mobil1 15w40. It does not have the energy conservation additives. It IS wet clutch safe.
Mobil 1 does not make a 15W-40 viscosity. Perhaps you meant 15W-50, their only viscosity without the Energy Conserving rating.
 
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