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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,


About to do my first oil change on the 02 6R. Can I really get at that filter without removing the fairing? If so, will it slop down the insulation on the inside of the fairing or is there a neat way around that.

Can I had tighten the filter or need a torque or filter wrench?

Thinking of using Valvoline motorcycle oil 10-40 and fram filter. OK??

Thanks

Brucelee

"Its the art of fighting, without fighting"
 

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I can't get my oil filter off without removing left side lower fairing. I have a '95 so it might be different on newer models. The oil sounds O.K. Fram filters have a bad reputation. You might want to do some research. You can't go wrong with OEM.
 

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I have a buddy with an 02' 6r -- he can take his off with the fairing on (sets it on a stand; I guess he has better access that way). I have a '01 -- I could prolly do it with the fairing on, but it seems much easier without. Plus, no worries about spillage!

'01 Stock Yellow ZX-6R
 

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hey bruce yes you should take the fairing off and all that stuff, but i have an oil filter wrench that i picked up and it works great..but then all you have to do is screw it back on, you really dont have to tighten it that tight, but you shouldnt leave it to loose either...just make sure it is secure...

I live for sundays!!!!!!
 

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It can be done with the fairing in place although it is not worth the agro and mess, remove the lower left body panel and be done with it, it only takes a couple of minutes. Never use a wrench to tighten filters, to tight and you will run the risk of deforming the seal and it will leak. Follow the direction on the box the filter comes in. As far as oil goes its a personal thing, but don't skimp especially if you ride hard, use the best you can afford. I asume your bike is still under waranty so make sure you use an oil of the same type recomended by Kawasaki, if something goes wrong they can tell and may make it difficult to claim on your waranty.

Confidence and Ability should not be Confused
ZX636-B1
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Follow on question. Is the fairing that easy to put back on? Looks pretty simple but you know how that goes?

Thanks for all the help.
Brucelee
 

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I always get the fairing back on with no prob. The only problem is that every time you take off the screws and bolts they get a little wear.

"If your not lent over you might as well be bent over!"
 

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putting the fairing back on takes a little bit of finesse (at least if you want it to fit like before you took it off), but be patient about lining up the tongues / grooves before you screw it into place and it's no problem. Remember, it is plastic and will bend into the proper fitting (slightly!)....

'01 Stock Yellow ZX-6R
 

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When I change my oil i rest a piece of cardboard under the filter and on top of the exhaust. when you take off the filter the oil will run down the cardboard and out that square hole under the fairing. It works great I got the idea from my dealer he said thats what they do.
 

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no I would not just hand tighten the oil filter. Go to pep boys and boy an oil filter cup for a socket wrench. Its only like $11 and may allow you to even keep your fairing on. Just bring the oil filter to pepboys if you can cause they have like 5 different sizes. Also VERY important. When you put a new oil filter on dip your finger tip in the NEW oil and rub it around the rubber ring of the new filter before you put it on. Also I would go with the OEM kawasaki filter Its only around $11 would it kill you to spend the extra $2!

With great freedom, comes great responsibility.
 

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Use nothing but the Kawasaki filter - If three or four dollars extra is an issue, you don't belong on a bike. You can't afford to skimp on these machines they way they are designed and rode.

'96 ZX6R Custom paint, Polished frame, swing-arm, fork tubes and rims - full hindle race system, DID gold chain, undertail, carbn hugger, clear tail light, carbon gauges, solo seat . . . and I'm just getting started

www.dnfmcx.com
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for all the ideas. I was thinking of the cardboard idea (or a shhet of heavy plastic cut to size. It looks like it would just run right down the sheet into the drain pan.

Also, on the filter, I certainly see where the Kawai filter would be fine. I was wondering if any of the aftermarkets are considered better than the OEM>

Finally, thoughts on oil. I was going with Valvoline motorcycle oil. Seems the synethetics have issues on wet clutch.

Also, I was going to change every 2K miles both filter and oil.

Thanks again.



Brucelee

"It is the art of fighting, without fighting!"
 

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2K miles should be fine.

For break in, use non-synthetic.

I like synthetic because it coats the engine internals better and provides superior start up protection. Especially in cold weather (hold a bottle of conventional dino up after leaving it out overnight in cold weather -- do the same with synth. Watch how slowly the dino oil flows).

Just be sure to NEVER use energy conserving synthetic oil for a bike. That will mess up your clutch. This is MOST car synth oils, but not all.

Here's some info:
http://www.yft.org/tex_vfr/tech/oil.htm
http://www.ducatimeccanica.com/oil.html
http://www.twocreeks.net/toby/oil_filters.shtml
http://community.webshots.com/album/7076307InyIHWjiPl



'00 ZX6R silver
 

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Tommy, why would you not hand-tighten the new oil filter on? That what I always do. I put it on pretty tight, but still just using my hands. Never a leak, and you can bet, when it's time to get it off, it's on there a heck of a lot tighter than when I first put it on. I have to use a snake clamp to get 'er off.
 

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Alright a few things.

First - Don't tighten the filter on with a wrench. Severely overtightening the filter may cause it to leak which is a huge pain in the ass (I hate it when my machines leak oil anywhere). On the other hand, if you keep it too loose, it may leak oil also--I'll get to how to get the right torque in a second. You want to remember to oil the seal on the filter with fresh oil (THIS IS REALLY IMPORTANT) it will help it go on real easy with the right seal--an unoiled seal may tear from friction. As soon as the seal contacts the landing...mark a spot on the filter and do one more complete rotation of tightening BY HAND back to that point, and the seal should be just the right torque. It's pretty hard to go wrong in overtightening as long as you only do it as tight as your hand can make it...

Second - As far as the right oil goes. Go with a synthetic. It is really worth the money. I have done a lot of research into different types of oils and how engines wear (as I rebuilt the turbo motor on my Eagle Talon TSi). Engines using synthetic oil have much less overall engine wear especially in the valvetrain compared to dino oil (real important in high revving or turbo applications). As far as oil goes you want like a 10w40 synthetic. Mobil 1 is really good stuff, I swear by it. As long as you make sure you get "Mobil 1 Motorcycle Oil" you should have no clutch slip problems. They designed the oil minus the friction modifiers that cause clutch slippage in wet clutch systems because they took into account most motorcycles have wet clutches.

Last - Filter. Go with OEM and you can't go wrong. On my cars I use Mobil 1 Performance filters, but just call that brand loyalty. I'm not sure if they make them for motorcycles but on my Ninja I just use Kawi Filters. ;)

Good luck and rev the hell outta it! You'll know you got the best protection possible in the crank case!

Phil
1998 Kawasaki ZX6R Ninja
Let the good times roll!
 

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yeah if you ever plan on taking the new filter off again sometime in the future, I would definitely recommend NOT wrenching it on. You can easily get filters more than tight enough by hand, plus as an added bonus you'll be able to remove them again later to change your oil... your bike will love you for it. A filter wrench can be very helpful in removing stubborn filters (especially if someone used a wrench to put it on in the first place), and this is another reason to use OEM filters. Some aftermarket filter edges (Fram if i remember correctly) are too rounded and will not fit a filter wrench... can be very frustrating if they are on tight. And to reiterate what someone else already mentioned, don't forget to use your fingertip and lightly coat the rubber filter gasket with oil to get a good seal.

'03 blue zx-6r
pics & projects:
www.harbordive.com/josh/zx6r.htm ('03 pics coming soon)
 

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Ok, now for my 2 cents...

Oil filter wrench=bad. You do not want it on extremely tight, hand tightening is perfect. Also, like others said, remember to prepare the seal with a small amount of new oil.

Oil filter, OEM is good, a Scott's Performance filter even better. They can add a small amount of horsepower, filter out smaller particles, improve your shifting, and are permanent. Just wash out (like an air filter) and re-use. Check it out at http://www.scottsonline.com

Oil, synthetic is better, but use regular for your break in period.

Hope that helps!

Step 1-Twist handle
Step 2-Hold on!
 

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Uhhhhhh, Lumi, I was right with you there, until you mentioned that bit about your oil filter being able to add "a small amount of horsepower"...

I don't know how you're figuring this... can you help me out? They sound like great products, being cleanable and reusable, and filtering down to 35 microns... which is all great... but adding horsepower? An oil filter??? You don't really think even a $109US oil filter can honestly add horsepower do you???

Still, it is a neat looking filter...



"Keep yer feet on the pegs and your right hand cranked."
 
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