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58 Posts
what kind of oil do you guys use? also what weight?
any you recomend/
any you recomend/
oil suggestions?
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63 Posts
I use Amsoil 10W-40. 10W-40 is recommended in the service manual. You can choose whatever brand you are common with. I chose to use Amsoil because they show statistics that its better than other motor oils. And from what I've have been researching, most people believes Amsoil is the best motor oil.
For my 2008 Ninja 250R
For my 2008 Ninja 250R
I use the same stuff. Just get whatever 10W-40 you like. I like synthetic, my buddy runs conventional, both bikes run great.
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15,847 Posts
Get whatever "motorcycle" oil you prefer.
Just make sure it's made for motorcycles
Just make sure it's made for motorcycles
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166 Posts
Rotella T6 for synthetic
Rotella Triple Protection 15w-40 for dino oil
Rotella Triple Protection 15w-40 for dino oil
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5,994 Posts
I mix half Amsoil 10w-40 and half Rotella T 15w-40. Here is a thread about oil that gives some other opinions:
RT4 V.S. Rotella - Bob Is The Oil Guy
RT4 V.S. Rotella - Bob Is The Oil Guy
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Don't mix different viscosity oils. Pick one and go with it 100%. Oil is not rocket science. Each machine calls for a specific oil, so buy it and use it. Some like synthetic, some don't. If you change it at the recommended intervals, no matter which you use, your machine will continue to bless you with years and years of service. Also make sure you do the filter at the same time. One friend of mine changes his every other oil change and it's worked fine for him for the last 30,000 miles (all conventional oil btw), but personally I'll spend the extra $10-$14 for a new filter each change.
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5,994 Posts
10w-40 mixed with 15w-40 is still 40 when warm, and maybe 12.5w when cold.
I would probably use all synthetic for a 250 Ninja- they are known for needing a rebuild after about 50,000 miles if ridden hard, since you need to rev them high to have any power.
Air cooled engines do better with a 50 or 60 weight as the second number in the summer, especially for long rides with temperatures over 100 degrees F.
A zero first number (the w stands for winter) is best for getting oil to the top of the engine faster when first starting it, but your clutch might slip too much and an oil that goes from 0 to a 30, 40, 50, or 60 weight when warm probably will break down faster. Use at least a 40 for the second number if you have a wet (oiled) clutch, because the 30 weight oils are designed to be energy conserving in cars and are often slippery enough to make the clutch slip more and wear out faster.
This is a good oil article, from an independent source:
Motorcycle Motor Oil
I would probably use all synthetic for a 250 Ninja- they are known for needing a rebuild after about 50,000 miles if ridden hard, since you need to rev them high to have any power.
Air cooled engines do better with a 50 or 60 weight as the second number in the summer, especially for long rides with temperatures over 100 degrees F.
A zero first number (the w stands for winter) is best for getting oil to the top of the engine faster when first starting it, but your clutch might slip too much and an oil that goes from 0 to a 30, 40, 50, or 60 weight when warm probably will break down faster. Use at least a 40 for the second number if you have a wet (oiled) clutch, because the 30 weight oils are designed to be energy conserving in cars and are often slippery enough to make the clutch slip more and wear out faster.
This is a good oil article, from an independent source:
Motorcycle Motor Oil
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405 Posts
DO NOT blend oils Especially different brands. There is absolutely no reason to blend oils and you are not a chemist.
Although oils will mix and not cause Immediate engine damage, it is always recommended to change oil as soon as possible if the need to mix occurs. Oils have different additive packages and by blending oils you may adversely effect the performance and longevity of the oil.
Read the M/C oil tests in our Sig. Pick one of the top 3 finishers and you will be assured of a Great product.
For oil filters: There is not a better filter made than the AMSOIL EA Series. # EAOM-103 for your bike. Next choice would be a WIX 51358 and then the Purolator ML Series.
Oil, is the Lifeblood of your engine. The oil filter, is the Kidney that keeps it clean.
The Best isn’t cheap
Cheap isn’t The Best
Bob
Although oils will mix and not cause Immediate engine damage, it is always recommended to change oil as soon as possible if the need to mix occurs. Oils have different additive packages and by blending oils you may adversely effect the performance and longevity of the oil.
Read the M/C oil tests in our Sig. Pick one of the top 3 finishers and you will be assured of a Great product.
For oil filters: There is not a better filter made than the AMSOIL EA Series. # EAOM-103 for your bike. Next choice would be a WIX 51358 and then the Purolator ML Series.
Oil, is the Lifeblood of your engine. The oil filter, is the Kidney that keeps it clean.
The Best isn’t cheap
Cheap isn’t The Best
Bob
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405 Posts
IF for some strange reason, you wish to use an auto or diesel oil, make sure to look or the following Specs.
An API SG or SG/SH. A higher API Rating may be used but the oil Must then carry a JASO MA or better yet, JASO MA2
For a diesel oil, API CG or CG/CH.. or the JASO MA or MA2
The Best isn’t cheap
Cheap isn’t The Best
Bob
An API SG or SG/SH. A higher API Rating may be used but the oil Must then carry a JASO MA or better yet, JASO MA2
For a diesel oil, API CG or CG/CH.. or the JASO MA or MA2
The Best isn’t cheap
Cheap isn’t The Best
Bob
Conventional 10W-40 motorcycle oil I've seen in auto parts stores (typically Valvoline) is usually $3.99 or $4.99 a quart. If you can't spend $20 on oil and $15 on a filter, then that's just sad. My buddy used car oil in his bike for a long time, but I could never convince him to use motorcycle oil until he gave in one day and gave it a try. He came to me telling me, "wow, the bike feels noticeably better with the motorcycle oil. It shifts better, too. I guess you were right, Larry. Ha ha." I just looked at him with a "duh" look on my face and said, "crazy how that works, huh?" LOL.
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15,847 Posts
And that has all the same ratings and whatnot you see on the back of a bottle of 10W-40 motorcycle oil? I've heard of people using that, but due to the lack of "motorcycle" on the label it drives me away. $19 a gallon is a freakin' deal considering I pay $10 a quart for synthetic motorcycle oil. I'm gonna have to take a bottle of my motorcycle oil to Wal-mart and compare the two to convince me.Rotella T6 is some good stuff too!
Walmart sells a gallon for $19
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5,994 Posts
If you try a few different oils, you will notice a difference for shifting smoothness for at least some of them, especially for the shift into first gear after starting the engine.
For a bike with very weak clutch springs like my 30 horsepower cruiser, I noticed that full synthetic motorcycle oils made the clutch slip more, but my 90+ horsepower ZZR600 has stronger clutch springs and the type of oil does not seem to change the clutch feel. I noticed a BIG difference for the ZZR shift feel, going from the original oil to half Amsoil 10w-40 and half Rotella 15w-40.
This is my favorite long oil article below, and he likes Rotella T6 (5w-40, JASO MA rated) the best. I tried it in my cruiser, and it did not work as well as my mix for either shift feel or clutch feel, but it was better than regular motorcycle oil for shift feel. If you have clutch plates that are starting to get worn out and slip too much, switching from a full synthetic to a semisynthetic or regular oil might make them slip less and last a few thousand more miles:
All About Motor Oil
For a bike with very weak clutch springs like my 30 horsepower cruiser, I noticed that full synthetic motorcycle oils made the clutch slip more, but my 90+ horsepower ZZR600 has stronger clutch springs and the type of oil does not seem to change the clutch feel. I noticed a BIG difference for the ZZR shift feel, going from the original oil to half Amsoil 10w-40 and half Rotella 15w-40.
This is my favorite long oil article below, and he likes Rotella T6 (5w-40, JASO MA rated) the best. I tried it in my cruiser, and it did not work as well as my mix for either shift feel or clutch feel, but it was better than regular motorcycle oil for shift feel. If you have clutch plates that are starting to get worn out and slip too much, switching from a full synthetic to a semisynthetic or regular oil might make them slip less and last a few thousand more miles:
All About Motor Oil
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166 Posts
Rotella T6 is some good stuff too!
Walmart sells a gallon for $19
I bought 8 jugs at $14 a pop. One of the autozones was getting rid of it. All the walmarts here keep it at $20.
I'm fine with diesel oils. Still not sure on car oils. I do know a guy that bought his F4i brand new and ran nothing but Mobil 1 car oil and now has over 200k.
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405 Posts
It lall depends on what you want out of your oil or out of your bike.
What I see above is "All Diesel Oils are Alike"... Quite far from the truth. Rotella happens to have a Self-Imposed JASO MA Rating making it wet clutch compatible. This does not make it a "Motorcycle oil" but does meet the minimum requirements set forth by the OEM.
If you look at other diesel oils and they do not have the JASO MA, they MUST carry an API CG or CG/CH Rating. If the Ratings start at CH or higher, the oil should NOT be used.
With a car oil, the API Ratings needed are SG or SG/SH or must have a JASO MA.
Some Premium M/C oils will also have additives to give a JASO MA2, Specific Anti-Wear additives for the tranny and Ant-Rust and Corrosion Inhibitors to protect during short periods of Non-Riding.
Oil, is the Lifeblood of your engine. The oil filter, is the Kidney that keeps it clean.
The Best isn’t cheap
Cheap isn’t The Best
Bob
What I see above is "All Diesel Oils are Alike"... Quite far from the truth. Rotella happens to have a Self-Imposed JASO MA Rating making it wet clutch compatible. This does not make it a "Motorcycle oil" but does meet the minimum requirements set forth by the OEM.
If you look at other diesel oils and they do not have the JASO MA, they MUST carry an API CG or CG/CH Rating. If the Ratings start at CH or higher, the oil should NOT be used.
With a car oil, the API Ratings needed are SG or SG/SH or must have a JASO MA.
Some Premium M/C oils will also have additives to give a JASO MA2, Specific Anti-Wear additives for the tranny and Ant-Rust and Corrosion Inhibitors to protect during short periods of Non-Riding.
Oil, is the Lifeblood of your engine. The oil filter, is the Kidney that keeps it clean.
The Best isn’t cheap
Cheap isn’t The Best
Bob
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43 Posts
What makes it a Motorcycle Oil is the "Motorcycle Oil" on the label. In fact, I once had some car oil and I scrapped off the labels and wrote Motorcycle Oil on the bottle and immediately it was 100x better. I could tell the difference immediately as it shifted 100x better and added 200hp. I didn't even have to touch the shifter it just read my mind and shifted right when I wanted it too.
If it also has a picture of a motorcycle on the bottle it adds up to 300hp.
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28,587 Posts
i tried both the fully synthetic and dino Rotella. hated it. it was alright for the first 1000 miles, but after that shift feel went to shit. it's not worth saving $15 every 3,000 miles/month and a half
i use mobile 1 4T full synthetic. available at walmart for $9/qt
i use mobile 1 4T full synthetic. available at walmart for $9/qt
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405 Posts
People, such as yourself, that have no idea what they are talking about but try to impose your ill illusions of knowledge of a subject should remain in the shadows of darkness and keep their mouths closed, ears open and fingers idle and maybe, just maybe, you will learn something and be able to respond on a subject with some intelligence instead of a lack there-of.
The Best isn’t cheap
Cheap isn’t The Best
Bob
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