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m'kay. the assembly lube goes away and mixes with your oil after like the first warm up perioud, its there for when you first start the engine, because if that where not there, then you would just damage the engine with no oil to lube anything. but when the bike warms up, the oil mixxes with it and washes it away. now 20-50 miles is about the right time to change yer oil. 80% of break in is done during that time, the other 20% is spread out over a verry long time. if you ever change your oil in a new bike or a fresh rebiuld after 20-50 miles, look at the metal in the oil, thats not what you want circulating thirough your engine.

have a look at this: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Also, please reframe from profanity, it makes you look like you are uneducated, and thereby ruining your credibility. and it is also offencive to some who read it.
 

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Originally posted by bradcad1
drop a line to pm lubricants- through www.pmlubricants.com.au where you can contact them for their comparison tests between their oil and Mobil 1. I asked them why shouldnt I use the mobil1, they laughed and showed me independant test results showing wear particles in the 2 different oils. quite amazing- worth just checking
I'm not disputing their results as I've never seen them, but I'm always weary of a company offering up an "independant" report showing their product vs a competitors.
 

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On a new bike changing the oil between 20 - 50 miles is a very important step. It's true that about 5 minutes after the bike is at full operating temp the assembly lube is washed away into the oil as it has accomplished its mission....to allow the engine to start without galling or spinning bearings. If you don't believe this is a good idea then follow these steps.

1) Drain oil at 20 - 50 miles.
2) Attach rare earth magnet to some string.
3) Drag the magnet through the drained oil for a minute or so.
4) If what you see attached to the magnet makes you happy then put the oil back in the bike. (Pour through terry cloth if you can't get magnet and string).
5) If what you see blows your mind in complete disbelief.....then put new oil in your prized possession.
6) New filter too.

The amount of bearing surface, ring material, and other stray metal particles that come loose in the first few miles is amazing....even to experienced engine builders. Don't get me started on the crap that comes loose from the casting process.

I change my oil AND filter in new vehicles at 20 miles, 100 miles, and 500 miles. Then I follow regular intervals for life of motor.

No synthetics for me until at least 5,000 miles.
 

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sooooo...... how about someone just tell me what to put in my motersickle. I just bought a '03 636 and changed the oil out for Mobil 1 10W-30. Was this a bad choice? I live in North Texas, current av temp ~97degF +/-5. The bike will be seeing the track in Level 3/4 on occassion in the future. In hindsight, I believe that I may well be pushing the upper temp limit of 10W-30.......

should I have gone for Mobil 1 10W-40? Someone mentioned Mobil 1 "10W-40 bike oil" is this different to normal Mobil 1 10W-40? (Sorry to start the shitstorm again!

I understand that all advice is personal opinion, some based on fact some based on BS.;)
 

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uhh... so "someone i know" used fully synthetic oil at the 600 mile service. what's going to happen? the engine isn't going to holy hell is it? stupid hawaii kawi dealers apparently know about as much as i do when it comes to bikes.
 

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Many people use synthetic oil and I have to stand against that when using it on a motorcycle. I race cars and I vouch and push for Synthetic every chance I get but I don’t recommend it on motorcycles.

Remember when changing the oil on a motorcycle you are not changeling the engine oil only but also the tranny oil. Tarannies sometimes on cars and motorcycles don’t like Synthetic because it too slippery for the syncros. I had my share of experience using synthetic oils on trannies and let me say that it was never a good experience. The shifting becomes botchier and not smooth.

Yes we will be sacrificing engine life by using regular oil but the tranny life is just as important.

Thanks
 

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I have been using redline full synthetic racing oil in my zx6rr for over a year and it is great. I have over 13k miles on it and it shifts like a dream. I have been taking it to the dragstrip over the last 5 months and no clutch slippage, or missed shifts and my bike runs about 10 degrees cooler. That's over 75 runs while seriously riding the clutch to keep the front end down off the line. My dad is running redline's 50 weight racing synthetic in his 200ft/lb 180hp nitrous Yamaha Roadstar Warrior at the drags with no problems at all. It is regularly well over 90 degrees when we run here in Florida as a rule. He is a lubrication engineer for one of the top 5 oil companies in the world so I definitely listen when he talks on the subject. Just my 2 cents, guys.
 

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i used shell rotella 15w-40 for my first oil change and then switched to shell rotella 5w-40 synthetic ever since. i love that stuff, cheap too, availible at walmart. i have over 12K miles on my bike without a problem.
 

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i have 2 99 zx9r and the first one has around 18k miles and the second has around 30k. I switched them to full synthetic mobile 1 motorcycle oil and I can tell you that it has made my clutch slip! On both bikes I have had them slip at really high revs in the last few gears. It may be due to my clutches being older and used, but they never slipped a bit before the change to synthetic. I have read so many things about oil, Im really thinking i should have not changed to synthetic on such high mileage engines. The engines also have a lot more noise I have noticed. Is it safe to change back to regular oil from synthetic?...people have told me that once you go synthetic you cant go back
 

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i have 2 99 zx9r and the first one has around 18k miles and the second has around 30k. I switched them to full synthetic mobile 1 motorcycle oil and I can tell you that it has made my clutch slip! On both bikes I have had them slip at really high revs in the last few gears. It may be due to my clutches being older and used, but they never slipped a bit before the change to synthetic. I have read so many things about oil, Im really thinking i should have not changed to synthetic on such high mileage engines. The engines also have a lot more noise I have noticed. Is it safe to change back to regular oil from synthetic?...people have told me that once you go synthetic you cant go back
you can change back but you may have some seal swelling as a result but usually you will be alright.
 

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I'm sorry, I couldn't resist...

your the one missinformed dude.if you change the oil at 25 miles youll be washing out the engine assembly lube that is designed to run in the motor through the break in period for one specific reason.breaking the fuckn motor in.and as far as the people on this forum being miss informed these people are here to share their ideas with each other so as a whole group come up with reasonable solutions to each others problems.if you think we are misinformed why dont you go to a different forum where you can be the king fuckin dumbass and spread your worthless data there.[:M111][:M53]
I believe you're the one who is misinformed. Engine assembly lube has nothing to do with "break-in". It is used to provide lubrication to engine parts the first time it is started, to provide protection until oil is delivered throughout the engine by means of the oil pump.

Also, changing the oil after 20 miles or so is a great idea. Many metal shavings are generated during the initial break-in of the motor. I'd rather have less of them circulating through my motor if possible.

I'm sure this link has been posted before. It's probably been debated extensively, but it is worth a read. I've broken engines in that I've rebuilt as per his instructions, and not a problem thus far :)

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
 

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Spectro...

I haven't heard much mention of Spectro motor oil, thats what my dealer put in for my 600 mile service (though i was well into 800 miles when i got it done). Of course I took the advice of motoman as well (a little late, but better than not at all) and changed my oil at around 300 miles to clear out any metal particles. But back to my original question, how does Spectro 10w-40 compare to others? My service guy said it has more additives and detergents (I think he said) so he preferred it over the regular kawasaki oil, does that sound right?
 

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^ Spectro is Top Notch. That is all I have used in my EX500. The non-synthetic type, it has got me over 100,000 miles. And I do not leak or burn oil. :wink2:
 
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