[Six-R]

I've got an issue with my 98 as well. Anything from about 1000 to 3500 rpm causes my bike to buck... this only happens on light throttle. If I try to accelerate from a low speed in first, unitil about 4000 rpm's the bike boggs, and bucks... as soon as I get above 4000 rpms the bike comes to life and works perfectly. I have also done a tune up which did not correct this concern.

As far as the chain, in my opinion I would go for the high performance chain and spend the extra money. Chain failures terrify me.

 

[discodan]

I dont know enough to suggest what else you could try thewizard, but just as a point of reference my 95 zx6r pulls hard and smooth from as low as you like. Hell I can creep forward at idle (1100 rpm) just by letting the clutch out slowly. So you shouldnt have to put up with it.

 

[thewzard]

I'm far from a mechanic so maybe you guys can help me out with a few questions/problems I have.

1) I have a 98' kawasaki 6r and Im not getting the performance I should be from my bike. Im having an acceleration issue that I know is not normal. Weird enough the acceleration issue only comes up when I'm between 0-3k rpms. I was guessing that maybe it was my carbs but my mechanic said that he adjusted the carbs and I shouldnt be having the issue again but its still happening.

2) When i'm down shifting sometimes when i press down the clutch and the brake my bike will turn off. Mostly when im going 80ish mph and have to slow down to about 20-30mph in a relatively short time. For example, like getting off the ramp on the expressway entering the city. NOTE: When I put up my idle this wont happen but if I put up my idle and start my bike my rpms go straight up to 5k.

3) I gave the bike a tune up about a month back but im still having some performance issues. Sometimes when I hit the gas Im not getting the kind of response I should get.

the tune up included:
Front brakes
Back brake
Spark plugs
Coil cables x2
Oil Change
Oil Filter
and
Chain Lube

4) My chain is getting ready to be thrown out. Anyway, I called up a friend of mine and he told me $86 for a regular chain and $140 for a high performance chain. Is the high performance chain worth the extra $$?

What do you guys think? Should I get a valve adjustment? Carb Adjustment? Carb clean up? new air filter? new chain and sprockets? Im running out of ideas.

anyways, thanks in advance.

 

[swjohnsey]

You probably need to shift more. The engine wasn't really designed to run well below 3,000 but . . .

First determine if the engine behavior is caused by being too rich or too lean. If it does it more when it is cold it is too lean. If it does it more when it is hot it is too rich. You can control the mixture to some extent below 4,000 rpm with the idle bleed screws. The are in a boss on the bowl side of the carb under an aluminum plug. Drill a small hole in the plug and use a screw to remove the plug. The screw a set at about two turns out from the factory but you can go out as far as 3 1/2 turns.

You can also control mixture below 4,000 rpm by altering the float level.

Chains come in two basic flavors, with o-rings and without o-rings. Don't buy a chain without o-rings, it won't last very long. Also I would not get a chain with a clip style master link. Get the shop to put a rivet style link in or buy a tool and do it yourself.

 

[thewzard]

swjohnsey: You completely lost me LOL.

Maybe this helps...My problem is in between 0-3500rpms whether from a take off or when doing idle speed.

-What happens?
My bike sputters, kind of like it wants me to give it more gas but if I apply more gas nothing happens until it gets out of 3500ish rpms then it reacts perfectly.

-What have I done to my bike that might have caused this?
I changed my shift/brake levers to carbon fibers. My clutch cable was too loose after this and I had to adjust it myself on both ends.

I had to change my clutch because my old one was slipping.

My mechanic adjusted my idle once and just recently he readjusted it back to how it was before.

My spark plugs had oil all over them and I cleaned them as much as possible, now there is very little oil, can barely see any.

thanks for the help by the way.

 

[bs121583]

my bike doesn't have much power at all below 3000... the bikes aren't designed to be ridden below 3000

 

[dj dunzie]

Thwzard, SW's advice was (as usual) all good. Not to offend, but if you don't understand how carbs work, my advice would be to find a trustworthy shop that has a dyno if the bike is sputtering or flat-spotting throughout the powerband and get them to throw it on a dyno which can analyze your air-fuel mixture to determine if there IS need for rejetting or other carb adjustment (IF and ONLY IF you have ruled out any wear or parts in need of replacing).

And again, with all due respect, you're riding a bike that revs to around 15,000 rpm, and produces peak power somewhere in the neighborhood of 12-13,000rpm. At your "0-3,000" rpm range, the powerband is really in nowhereland. (No 600 has strong pull below 3,000rpm in truth). You'll likely do more harm to the bike cruising at 3000rpm or less than you will at 9000+rpm, and even on takeoff your clutch and throttle control should keep the bike WELL ABOVE the dying point. As long as the bike is IDLING fine (at around 1,300rpm or so for a 2003, I believe 1,200 for a 2001), it sounds to me like you could just be bogging the engine a little too much. Get it revving.

 

[Foxymammas666]

What happens when you get stole in that rolling traffic

 

[MaDgamEr]

Ya, many people that are new to supersport bikes have a tendancy to be overcautious on the engine... Remember, these bikes are designed with one thing on mind, SPEED. Don't baby it, keep the revs high, this is what the bike was designed for. Especially Kawi engines.

 

[thewzard]

Ok, I thought someone might think that. Let me see if I can explain better. I know my bike's power is very limited at really low rpms, thats not what I'm arguing. I've had the bike for 4months now. This problem surfaced sometime after I replaced the clutch. I also had an R6 so I know how a 600 should ride from a complete stop.

I have to hold in the clutch and rev up to 3kish rpms if I want to take off smoothly. Thats not good for the bike.

There's only two things I know for sure and thats: The problem is not on my end (clutch/gas work) and that this problem is not normal.

I just found out a few days ago that my muffler is a stock muffler that was gutted. The guy that sold it to me told me it was a full system muzzy. Since Muzzy only comes for kawi's I had never seen one before but it fit the description (sounds really loud). He played me for a fool but I addressed that issue, its a shame though, the car he bought with the money from the bike was pretty nice.

So, maybe it needs to be rejetted since my mechanic did some carb work to the bike. Or maybe when I adjusted the clutch cable I didnt readjust it properly.

 

[discodan]

Don't let these guys try and tell you are doing it wrong. these bikes are made to be reved high but that doesnt mean that they have to splutter and stall off idle. It sounds like your bike is having problems when you say you HAVE TO rev it to 3k plus. I can twist the throttle at 3k and rocket foward even if it aint in the powerband. Good luck diagnosing the problem.