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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys i'm in serious need of your guys help i'm so frustrated right now.... ok... here's what happened...

I got some sweet Galfer SS lines right... and so in putting those on, i looked up on the forum that the only problem is that the top is snug, and that i could shave the break lever... so the lines are working fine and perfect, and i want a little more clearance when i brake...

so i take off the lever and shave it, and then the pin from the brake lever is out as far as it can go, and there's no way i can force it back in... so the only way to put it back in, is to release pressure from the top master cylinder bleed hole... that will allow the built up pressure to release, and the pin to go in, BUT then all of a sudden, after about a couple minutes riding, the brakes lock and freeze up on me again, locking the front brake, and the lever to it's max out position... i've tried EVERYTHING you can think of... bleeding the lines again... releasing the pressure, pushing in the pin, then closing the hole...

i just want to know, is there a special way to put the brake lever back on?... something i'm not seeing in how to put the lever on?....

keep in mind that i changed the lines perfectly, they were working perfectly till i took off that brake lever, and now the brake levers acting up... and i'm so pissed off, i'm telling my girlfriend to shut up and stop instant messaging me just because i want to type this up and find out WHAT THE HELL DID I DO WRONG!? or WHAT THE HELL AM I NOT DOIN!?

ANY INFO WOULD BE APPRECIATED.... (p.s. did a search, and couldn't find anything)
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Forgot to mention, everything was tightened to spec when we put the lines on(12-15ft lbs. of torque) with a torque wrench... then rode them for about 45 min. with no problems... then when i took my lever off, all this crap started comming up...

kow wee
 

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Ok, here is what is most likely happening, quite commen with the galfer lines on this bike.

sit on your bike and look at the lever, if you look at the left end of it, and look down, you'll see a little tab, that goes down towards the ground, this thing is for your break light. the galfer lines are too close to this piece of metal and WILL bend it (towards the right) this makes it so the lever cant return to its normal position. therefor your breaks actually arent releasing. thus when you ride they start to break as it heats up.

The way to fix this is 1. adjust the lines to be as far left as possible. 2. you'll need to take the lever off, and probably straighten that tab. A hammer should be fine on a hard metal surface.

If this isnt the cause of your problems, I can give you other ideas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thanks Hel,

but when we put the lines on, we put them as far clutch side(sitting on the bike left side) as possible... so that can't be it... But i think the lever locks up at 190 degrees and up... so tomarrow i'm going to buy a real brake bleeder for like 50 bucks from kragen and see what happens....
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok guys... here's an update on the problem now...

after bleeding the lines and master cylinder perfectly, air still somehow gets into my system... it takes time to get in, but about a mile and a half of riding my bikes brakes will start to lock up again... is there anything wrong with taking out the pin under the lever??... Does anyone have any suggestions at all!?!

kow wee
 

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As I mentioned, no matter wether you put them as far left as possible, you will need to reconfigure to move them over some more. The pin is most likely bent. before messing with your lines take out the lever and check if its bent.

You can make the top line the bottom one, and that might help move it over. You'll need to straighten the pin, if you just cut that pin off, your brake light will forever be on. so you'll need to unplug it as well. you can just unplug and uncrew the button, instead of cutting the pin. your rear brake will still activate the light.

I doubt there is any other problem with your system if you've installed it right. This is such a common thing, i've had to fix 3 ZX6Rs with this same problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Originally posted by Tristan
why the heck would air cause breaks to lock up?????????????????????
Because Heat causes air to expand... so if there's air in the lines we thought the air was expanding...

But all in all... Hel was 100% right... i didn't even think the lever was bent but thanks Hel... but i figured i'd try it and see... so i took it off, and tried to hammer what i thought was straight and everything seems to be fine.... rode about 4 miles with a temp over 190 degrees and not a change in lever pressure... so thank you Hel... Really helped me out...

kow wee
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Wait Hel...

Is this the part of the lever i should be trying to bend back, in red?

and after i bent it back a little, it just allowed me to ride farther than before, before it started to lock up on me again...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Sorry Hel...

you weren't right after all.... shanved and bent my brake lever back... and still the bike locks up after riding for more than 2 miles at over 200 degrees??....

Please Kawiforumers... DOES ANYONE HAVE ANYTHING!? please... i'm dying here... also... can anyone get a good tight air seal on their master cylinder when they try to bleed the brakes?... i can't seem to get a good seal on mine...

kow wee
 

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http://www.KawiForums.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=43846

I had the same problem after installing SS lines on my race bike. 1 lap into practice and the front wheel locked up and the brake lever would pull away from the bar.

I received some good ideas from the board, but found that after disconnecting the brake sensor located underneath the master cylinder the problem disappeared. The bar still pulls away from the bar in the 1st lap a little, but has never locked up again. The brakes work perfectly. I use a Mityvac as well. Be sure to bleed each caliper and then the master cylinder too. Hope this helps.
 

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yup, thats the other solution, jsut remove the brake light sensor.

If that also doesnt help. then I can't say I have any idea what might be wrong. Other than bad calipers...
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ok guys... here's another problem that may help me solve WTF is wrong...

Ok, can anyone tell me if they bleed their brakes, how far does the lever go down... because after bleeding all the fluid out, and then even dissconecting the lines, my brake lever feels like it hits a wall at about an inch till it hits the grip... i was told by a mechanic that it doesn't matter how the lever is mounted that the lever should no matter what hit the grip when fully pressed... should i be worried that my bikes lever doesn't go down fully, that it doesn't touch the grip??

ANYONE please help

thanks, Kow Wee
 

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Ok first of all, relaxe alittle and start retracing everything. Make sure you have the copper crush washers under the bolt head, then between the lines then again between the line and the caliper/master, THEN take the break lever off and make sure you have it back together and adjusted full out, then install the lever and squeeze it a few times, THEN add break fluid and make sure it is DOT4 you can either add from the top or get a bottle with a pointed cap on it, attach a piece of air line from a fish tank air system and force the fluid up from the caliper. (When I worked on the dealership I always did the fluid fill from the bottom up and never had air in the systems, also you can get the bottle from any beauty supply store got mine from my buddies girlfriend)
 

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Yeah, something is holding pressure in the system.

You didnt mix fluid types did you? I have heard of that swelling seals and causing these symptoms.

Also, just be sure you are reinstalling the lever exactly as it came out and be sure it is not binding in its movement.
 

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How much fluid is in the reservoir? Is it all the way full? How new are the pads? Are the caliper pistons retracted all the way when you are done bleeding? Sometimes, especially with stainless lines, extra fluid coupled with new pads and sticky calipers; heat will increase pressure in your lines and cause the brakes to drag. Air in the lines will not cause the brakes to drag. Air can be compressed enough in closed system to cause a decrease in brake performance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Man guys.. i tried all the fluid levels... rode my bike with the brake fluid level from low to high... like i said before, my lines are in perfectly and everything, installed the right way, and no i'm not mixing fluids... the weird thing is that i'm using fluid beyond DOT3 and DOT4...

guys... just answer one thing for me... I even took off my banjo bolt to the master cylinder, just tell me if my brake lever should touch my handle bar grip? when fully pressed, with no pressure, and no boanjo bolt on the master cylinder... Does anyones 05 636 brake lever go fully to the grip?... because mine stops about an inch till the lever, even on the lowest setting.... PLEASE TELL ME MY MASTER CYLINDER ASSEMBLY ISN'T BROKEN....

thanks everyone for all you inputs....
kow wee
 

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With no pressure in the system, the lever should be able to reach the grip. When you bled the brakes, did you pull the lever all the way in or just the amount you would normally use the lever. If you have gone beyond normal braking lever travel it is possible something got into the piston seal on the master cylinder. Was there crud in the bottom of the master cylinder reservoir when you started? This is far less likely but everything else sounds okay. Take a picture of the assembly and post it so we can see if everything is lined up.
 

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Originally posted by Kow wee
... the weird thing is that i'm using fluid beyond DOT3 and DOT4...
Explain? I hope you arent mixing in DOT 5.
 
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