[Jijalicious]

Hey everyone,

I don't know if you guys can help or not, but it's worth a try...

I have a 2002 ZX6R and it has one little problem... Won't start!
Well...it does start, but only when you short the solenoid and hit the start button at the same time.

I've taken the bike apart, changed the wiring harness, changed the solenoid and still same problem... when you hit the start button, the fuel pump goes "click click click" and that's it.


Instead of randomly buying a fuel pump, ECU and relay switches... and changing them.. which I don't know if that will even solve the problem... maybe someone has some inputs?

Thanks,
~Jij

 

[Habsfan39]

Hey everyone,

I don't know if you guys can help or not, but it's worth a try...

I have a 2002 ZX6R and it has one little problem... Won't start!
Well...it does start, but only when you short the solenoid and hit the start button at the same time.

I've taken the bike apart, changed the wiring harness, changed the solenoid and still same problem... when you hit the start button, the fuel pump goes "click click click" and that's it.


Instead of randomly buying a fuel pump, ECU and relay switches... and changing them.. which I don't know if that will even solve the problem... maybe someone has some inputs?

Thanks,
~Jij

Neutral Start Safety Switch. Jump it with a wire and then see what happens.

Habs

 

[Jijalicious]

where exactly is that? and how to do it?

I should know this... given I'm taking the bike apart piece by piece.

~Jij

 

[Habsfan39]

Try this. Pull in the clutch and see if it starts then. The cluth safety switch over rides the neutral start switch. If it starts then it's the neutral start switch.

I'll look for a pic of them both for you. You can look for it and if you do find something that looks like a switch on the trans just unplug it and jump the chassis end not the trans end of it. Then see if it starts.


Part number is 13151. It's a simple pin switch. If the trans is in neutral the shift fork compresses it enabling the bike to start. As soon as the shifter is moved from neutral the pin opens the circuit which disables the starting circuit. The one on the clutch is in the circuit and it will over ride the neutral switch.

Clutch switch number is 27010. It's a simple switch aswell. Clutch in closes the switch enabling the bike to start. Clutch out disables starter button.

Habs

 

[Tough-Guy]

This is a shot in the dark but...

Sounds like you have a dead battery. The clicking noise you here is not the ECU (Actually your bike doesn't have an ECU) it's the starter solenoid bouncing up and down as voltage fluctuates between a voltage capable of actuating the solenoid and a load/voltage drop that can't sustain the electro-mechanical connection between the contacts.

When you hit the starter button, battery voltage is applied to the windings in the solenoid attracting the plunger to close contacts in the solenoid. When current flows across the main terminals, voltage is available at the starter. When this happens there is a voltage drop across the load (starter motor) and if the voltage drops below the threshold to keep the contacts closed they open until battery voltage rises enough to close them again.

I would check your battery voltage with the bike off first. You should have 12.4vdc-13.3vdc.

With the meter still connected to the battery, observe what happens when you hit the starter button. If the voltage drops blow (about) 9vdc the battery may not have enough deep cycle charge to drive the starter motor and actuate the solenoid at the same time.

 

[LINCOLNBOY]

This is a shot in the dark but...

Sounds like you have a dead battery. The clicking noise you here is not the ECU (Actually your bike doesn't have an ECU) it's the starter solenoid bouncing up and down as voltage fluctuates between a voltage capable of actuating the solenoid and a load/voltage drop that can't sustain the electro-mechanical connection between the contacts.

When you hit the starter button, battery voltage is applied to the windings in the solenoid attracting the plunger to close contacts in the solenoid. When current flows across the main terminals, voltage is available at the starter. When this happens there is a voltage drop across the load (starter motor) and if the voltage drops below the threshold to keep the contacts closed they open until battery voltage rises enough to close them again.

I would check your battery voltage with the bike off first. You should have 12.4vdc-13.3vdc.

With the meter still connected to the battery, observe what happens when you hit the starter button. If the voltage drops blow (about) 9vdc the battery may not have enough deep cycle charge to drive the starter motor and actuate the solenoid at the same time.

diddo on the battery

 

[Jijalicious]

I wish it was the battery... one of the first items I replaced Its brand new and being kep alive by trickle charger.

 

[whitehendrix]

kawis are an electrical nightmare. i've said it a thousand times.. lol

your fuel pump is "jumped" power by the starter button, thus the reason you're hearing the pump. it's to fill the bowls up, being that the only time the bike's pump will run is off the #1 spark plug channel's signal..


look closely at the relay in the junction box (assuming an old-skool style)

i know on my older 600's and my 7-R theres a junction box under the seat. thers 2 relays in there. one's for the headlight, the other is for the starter solenoid. if you DO have the junction box (i'm a little unfamilar with the bike, sorry) give it a light tap with something whilst holding the starter button in.. if it cranks, thats your problem..

if not, look closely at the connections coming from the solenoid and whereever else theres a plug at.. make sure they're tight and clean.

you're not that far away, either.. you could always swing by my shop outside of hagerstown! lol

keep us posted man

 

[Tough-Guy]

Jijalicious - Can you give us some history on the bike? Is it modified? Are you the only owner ect.?

When I get a bike in for diagnosis, I typically ask the customer... "Okay, so you were riding alone and everything was fine, then what happened?"

I'm wondering at what point did this condition start. Bike's don't usually "grow" electrical problems while sitting, so what changed from the time it was working properly to now?