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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Here are the steps I followed:

1. Purchase 3/8" (9.53 mm) vacuum caps from an auto parts store (there were three in this package):



2. Remove the black side panels from the fuel tank.

3. Remove the seat.

4. Remove the two front bolts that hold the tank and steering damper. Rotate the damper out of the way toward the front of the bike.

5. Raise the front of the tank and hold it up with bungee cords or tie straps.

6. Remove the air box. (See post #35 below for tips on how to do this if you don't already know)

7. Remove the hose from the pair valve (see the area circled in red), and set it to the side (we won't be reinstalling this hose):



8. Install one of the vacuum caps on the valve where the hose was removed:


The cap is a little small, so it's kinda hard to install. I used some needle nosed pliers to pull it onto the valve connection.


9. Install another vacuum cap on the bottom of the air box where the same hose used to be connected:



The connection on the air box is a little smaller, so the cap goes on easier. Here is a closeup of the installed vacuum cap:



10. Reinstall the air box (minus that one hose I removed).

11. Reinstall the fuel tank, steering damper, seat and black side panels.

With this mod you don't have to worry about installing a jumper on the pair valve wiring since we are leaving it plugged in even though it won't be doing anything.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Regards,
Strider
 

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which bike was this done on? been thinking of some stuff i can do to my 03 zx6r while i have the motor dropped
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
which bike was this done on? been thinking of some stuff i can do to my 03 zx6r while i have the motor dropped
It's a 2009 ZX-6R (2009 - 2012 will be the same). Other year models are probably similar though.

What exactly does the Kleen Air Mod do for our bikes? Is there really any benefits and do you have to tune your bike afterwards?
When you change the stock exhaust to something that breathes better, you will get a lot of popping on deceleration. That is because the pair valve sends air from the air box into the exhaust to mix with any fuel that hasn't burned completely. Well with a better breathing exhaust this mix happens further down the exhaust and causes the popping. This mod blocks off the pair valve and greatly reduces the popping sounds.

There is no need to re-tune just for this mod. However, if you are going to get a custom tune, you will have to do the Kleen Air mod in order to get it right.
 

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Does the vacuum cap not need a zip tie or jubilee clip to hold it in place? Does this basically do the same as the Ivans block off kit but for a whole load less money?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Does the vacuum cap not need a zip tie or jubilee clip to hold it in place? Does this basically do the same as the Ivans block off kit but for a whole load less money?
You can zip tie it if you want, but it's not necessary. The caps were very tight, and the original hose I removed didn't have any kind of clamp on it either.

Yes, this accomplishes the same thing as the block off plates for way less cash!
 

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thats because they want to sell you something. it's actually as simple as leaving the reed valve covers in place & installing a tube between them, then unplug the electrical connector & remove the valve. plug the hole/tube in the airbox.
don't waste your money...
Now I'm confused. In the original post all he did was to remove 1 hose and block off both ends where it was connected, you're saying to unplug electrical connectors and stuff. Which is correct? What's the difference?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Now I'm confused. In the original post all he did was to remove 1 hose and block off both ends where it was connected, you're saying to unplug electrical connectors and stuff. Which is correct? What's the difference?
Locknload's method accomplishes the same thing, but it's more involved. That's why I chose the thread title I used! =o)
 

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Now I'm confused. In the original post all he did was to remove 1 hose and block off both ends where it was connected, you're saying to unplug electrical connectors and stuff. Which is correct? What's the difference?
i only unplugged the elec connector so i could remove the valve & not have it rattling around on top of my motor.
 

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Damn a week to late. Just installed the Driven block offs. Last weekend.
 
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Does the vacuum caps have another name as I can't seem to find any in the UK? There's plenty on the US Ebay but non on the UK site!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Does the vacuum caps have another name as I can't seem to find any in the UK? There's plenty on the US Ebay but non on the UK site!
You should be able to find them in any local auto parts store (and prolly cheaper than ordering them online and paying shipping).
 

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i only unplugged the elec connector so i could remove the valve & not have it rattling around on top of my motor.

You can actually rip the whole electrical valve assembly out of the harness. It'll throw a code, so I used a paperclip to jumper the harness side connector then taped it up really well. Code went away, no fuses blew and I tucked the wiring out of the way.
 

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Both methods do the same job, the difference being with this way you are leaving the valve there so the ECU still operates it. If you want to save a bee's dick in weight you need to jump the plug when you remove the valve (and block the resulting holes) to stop it from throwing a code.

It's really not an important mod, but it IS neccessary when you get aftermarket ECU so you can get te correct tune.
 

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So basically it just reduces some of the popping and banging from aftermarket exhausts? I've got a 2010 ZX6R which I've fitted an M4 exhaust to, bike hasn't come out from Winter hibernation yet so I haven't heard what the exhaust sounds like but I'm expecting some popping noised when I do get it out. If I want to reduce this I should do the mod in the opening post yeah?

Are there any other benefits or is that it? Is the fueling better because it's not ending up getting burnt in the exhaust? Is the fuel economy any different or is the noise the only benefit?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
So basically it just reduces some of the popping and banging from aftermarket exhausts? I've got a 2010 ZX6R which I've fitted an M4 exhaust to, bike hasn't come out from Winter hibernation yet so I haven't heard what the exhaust sounds like but I'm expecting some popping noised when I do get it out. If I want to reduce this I should do the mod in the opening post yeah?
That is correct. It reduces the popping a lot! So you will be able to hear that beautiful exhaust tone instead of all the popping!

Are there any other benefits or is that it? Is the fueling better because it's not ending up getting burnt in the exhaust? Is the fuel economy any different or is the noise the only benefit?
As far as I know, it doesn't affect any of these things except the popping noise.

The one other thing it will affect is custom map tuning. This type of mod must be done in order for custom tuning to be successful.
 
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