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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I heard of alot of complaints about the zx6r's running at extreme engine coolant temps, mostly at near engine failure temps, just so Kawisaki can meet emissions.
Yes it's true, heat makes less emissions and all but I like my bike and keeping it cool means better preformance, longer oil life, better engine life, and response.
I don't care for the switch kits on eBay, but that is just me. If you like the switch kit I can put a write up of it. It's easy, fast and cheap. I like to ride and not have to worry about turning a switch on or off.
After about 20 mins of research and math, I came up with this mod. The total for parts shouldn't be more then $30. This mod will turn your fan on somewhere around 160°F to 180°F.
Every bike is different so keep an eye on it while it warms up, check the fan, and what temp it comes on at before you go out and ride it. Say your fan turns on at 160°F and you want the fan to come on at a higher temp go for a smaller Ohm resistor, if you want the fan to come on at a lower temp get a bigger Ohm resistor
Disclaimer: Neither myself or Kawiforms.com are reliable for anything that goes wrong in your installation/modification.

Parts you will need:
470 Ohm, any watt resistors (I used 1/4 watt)
Senasys 120°F Fan-Style Snap-Disc Switch: Closes on temperature rise (I orded it from Amazon.com: Senasys 120°F Fan-Style Snap-Disc Switch: Closes on temperature rise: Home Improvement)
22-18 gauge Female spade crimp connectors
18 Gauge wire
Electric tape
solder (optional)

Tools you will need:
10mm wrench
10mm socket
small and medium allen keys
wire strippers/crimpers
solder gun (optional)
First set up the parts, crimp one spade connectors on the resistor

Next cut a piece of wire how ever long you would like it to be, strip both ends, crimp a spade connector on one side

Now pulling off the seat and un-bolting the gas tank (you can remove the gas tank and set it off to the side for more work space or just prop it up like i did)
im not going to show you how to do this because im sure it is posted on here somewhere

Then un-plug the engine coolant temp sensor here. it is tucked in under the injectors

You will need to strip back the brown wire with the black stripe and the orange wire, these 2 wires send the temp signal back to the ECU. The blue wire with white stripe sends the temp to your gauge cluster. This wire is to be left alone.

After that split both the copper wires so that there is an opening like so

You can slide the wire in one of the wires (doesnt matter what wire you put it in). After that wrap the extra around the copper wire

Next do the same to the other wire with the resistor

After that tape it all up and make sure the wires and bare parts of the resistor can not touch each other otherwise it could cause a short in the ECU.


and last connect the switch to the wires and tucke it back and out of the way. Make sure to get the thermal switch close to the engine so it heats up and lets the signal go through. i would post a pic of it but while i was taking the pics my son took the switch and broke it so i dont have a pic of that but i put arrows where it connects

Now plug it back in and re-assemble your bike and start it up. Let it idle and warm up. Once the engine coolant temp gets to 160º~185º F the raidator fan should turn on and lower the coolant temp. If not, you do not have a good connection go back in an double check the connections.
The reason for the thermal switch is so that when the bike is cold the ECU can have the cold start and warm up system run otherwise your bike WILL NOT START. After it is warm, the switch will close letting the resistor change the signal to the ECU saying the bike is hot and turn the fan on. My fan turns on at 178°F
here is the video of it all put together before the switch got broken
http://s247.photobucket.com/albums/gg154/sniper_1357/Mobile%20Uploads/?action=view&current=IMG_0099.mp4[/URL]
 

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Nice write up and good idea! Another way to keep your engine cool is to buy a right side R6 fan and mount it on your radiator. I think an 05 R6 and up will work. Run it to your battery with an inline fuse and toggle switch. It won't kill your battery because the stator is charging it while you drive. The R6 fans push way more air than stock kawi fans and you can either keep it on all the time and let your stock come on at proper temp. Or only turn it on when the temp calls for it.

Both of these mods together....you would have to chizzle the ice off your radiator lol
 

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I live in Central Texas where summer high temperatures are always around the 100+ mark and I have never had a problem with over heating. In fact my fan has come ON only a few times since I bought the bike.

I checked the engine temps a few days ago:


Ambient Temperature = 102 oF
Riding Speed = 0 MPH (stopped at a very long stop light)
Engine Temp = 214 oF

Ambient Temperature = 102 oF
Riding Speed = 40 - 45 MPH
Engine Temp = 200 oF

Ambient Temperature = 102 oF
Riding Speed = 60 - 70 MPH
Engine Temp = 195 oF

OH and I have never changed the engine coolant since the bike was new and I now have 30K miles on it. I have topped off the engine coolant, but I have never drained and replaced it. I know I should do it, but I haven't.

My engine temp rarely passes the 200 oF mark, unless I'm stopped at a light and then it only goes up to around 215 oF at most.

:dunno:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thanks nick hmm didnt know that lol thats not a bad idea but i might keep the bike a lil too cold lol but hey its good just mean run it harder. as long as im not riding in the snow here the bike wont lock up from being too cold. well i looked at doing this cause im in colorado and about too weeks ago i was riding about 45mph and the engine temp was 222 deg F and i had just changed all the fluids on it that week plus i hear alot of people looking for something like this. and cooler bikes means more preformance lol
 

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Your fan isn't goin to to anything at 30+ mph. The fan doesn't blow 30 mph and only blows through a small portion of the radiator. A higher ratio if water to antifreeze will. Pure water will cool better than a mix with antifreeze but obviously fill freez and will have no corrosion/electrolysis protection. Pure water will boil at 212 at sea level but under pressure it will boil at a higher temp. 3 degrees for every 1 psi. So wouldnt boil until 242 with 10 lb cap.
 

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Very true. I stunt in a parking lot and the extra fan is great for me. Wouldn't do much but ad weight for a track bike. But could flip it on when at a stop light if you're mainly a street rider...Monster's mod is great for traffic/city riding.
 

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nice write up. if you guys dont wanna do this then you can pay 30.00 and get a metal radiator fan from muzzy that will help. also, try to use the water wetter coolant, its supposed to keep engine up to 20 degrees cooler
 

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I live in Central Texas where summer high temperatures are always around the 100+ mark and I have never had a problem with over heating. In fact my fan has come ON only a few times since I bought the bike.

I checked the engine temps a few days ago:


Ambient Temperature = 102 oF
Riding Speed = 0 MPH (stopped at a very long stop light)
Engine Temp = 214 oF

Ambient Temperature = 102 oF
Riding Speed = 40 - 45 MPH
Engine Temp = 200 oF

Ambient Temperature = 102 oF
Riding Speed = 60 - 70 MPH
Engine Temp = 195 oF

OH and I have never changed the engine coolant since the bike was new and I now have 30K miles on it. I have topped off the engine coolant, but I have never drained and replaced it. I know I should do it, but I haven't.

My engine temp rarely passes the 200 oF mark, unless I'm stopped at a light and then it only goes up to around 215 oF at most.

:dunno:
that sounds good. a shop changed and flushed my coolant and i swear it has kept the bike a good 5 degrees plus cooler. i think they just used some regular bike coolant nothing special
 

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nice write up. if you guys dont wanna do this then you can pay 30.00 and get a metal radiator fan from muzzy that will help. also, try to use the water wetter coolant, its supposed to keep engine up to 20 degrees cooler
You could also just have an external switch that you can flip and the fan turns ON regardless of engine temperature.

But I agree with williams805 this is only good when you're either stopped or riding very slow.
 

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thanks nick hmm didnt know that lol thats not a bad idea but i might keep the bike a lil too cold lol but hey its good just mean run it harder. as long as im not riding in the snow here the bike wont lock up from being too cold. well i looked at doing this cause im in colorado and about too weeks ago i was riding about 45mph and the engine temp was 222 deg F and i had just changed all the fluids on it that week plus i hear alot of people looking for something like this. and cooler bikes means more preformance lol
there is probably trapped air in it still.


and, you know the engine will make the most power, and be most efficient right about 200 degrees. theres a reason these are designed so the fans dont come on until 210 or so.


and as someone else said, the fans arent doing anything above about 30mph.
 

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water wetter by far is better at cooling than the green shit that comes stock and engine ice. I ran engine ice for 4yrs and recently changed to water wetter and there was a more than slight noticeable drop in average temp.
 

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water wetter by far is better at cooling than the green shit that comes stock and engine ice. I ran engine ice for 4yrs and recently changed to water wetter and there was a more than slight noticeable drop in average temp.
The only problem I have with water wetter is that it doesn't reduce the freezing point of water like anti-freeze does. Therefore if you live in a place where it freezes then you have to change out the water wetter engine coolant and put some anti-freeze back in. PIA if you ask me.

That's why a would recommend engine ice instead of water wetter.

;)
 

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The only problem I have with water wetter is that it doesn't reduce the freezing point of water like anti-freeze does. Therefore if you live in a place where it freezes then you have to change out the water wetter engine coolant and put some anti-freeze back in. PIA if you ask me.

That's why a would recommend engine ice instead of water wetter.

;)
Some tracks actually won't allow engine ice if you run in intermediate or advanced. I personally think that the noob group should be made to change it as they will probably be MORE likely to crash. Not saying intermediate or advanced won't crash, as when they do, their crashes are more spectacular and run the risk of spilling something on track. Noobs just panic brake and crash more easily. Thankfully with no major fluid damage to track but it should be a requirement imho.

I put in a reminder to change it on my calendar in October/November before we get any freak freezing temps. Even in the garage, while it may not be 32 inside exactly, since I don't pump heat into it, it's best to change it. You can add the anti-freze to water wetter from what I've heard but I'd rather just change it tbh. It's not that bad of a job.
 

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So has anyone done this mod? Just wondering as I wouldnt mind getting my bike temp lowered as well. Fan and everything kicks on but during the heat of Summer and riding the bike around town stop and go the heat is killing me!

Ive done a coolant change and used the SuperCool with WaterWetter and thought that would have helped a bit but still seems hot to me. Im sure it cooled it down a bit. But anyways just trying to figure out if I want to do the additional radiator fan or anything like that?
 

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im just wondering if eng ice is better for sure then water wetter...im gona do one of them do both mine and my wifes bike since were in florida...and i dont care about freezing since they both sit in a garage for one, 2 im in florida, and 3 if its that cold i aint riding anyway
 

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Your fan isn't goin to to anything at 30+ mph. The fan doesn't blow 30 mph and only blows through a small portion of the radiator. A higher ratio if water to antifreeze will. Pure water will cool better than a mix with antifreeze but obviously fill freez and will have no corrosion/electrolysis protection. Pure water will boil at 212 at sea level but under pressure it will boil at a higher temp. 3 degrees for every 1 psi. So wouldnt boil until 242 with 10 lb cap.
Good to know
 
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