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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got a 24" breaker bar on one side and 18" on the other with 2 guys and damn that thing won't budge after it was moving by myself. Maybe I should try to tighten again and work it back and forth and see? It's already easy to rotate but the nut is stuck to the axle. I don't want to torch it and ruin the swing arm silver paint. I could probably leave the soldering iron against it if that was to cause some expansion. I've never seen a nut on that hard.
 

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Dumb question, but you have the cotter pin completely removed, correct? Is the hole where the pin was galled up at all?

I'd spray some penetrating oil on it and work it back and forth until you can get it to come lose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Dumb question, but you have the cotter pin completely removed, correct? Is the hole where the pin was galled up at all?

I'd spray some penetrating oil on it and work it back and forth until you can get it to come lose.
Not a dumb question. Yes totally took that out. I was thinking maybe there were some burs on the hole. I'm going to tighten back down a little and work it back and forth if I can but as someone said I'll try my heat gun. He said not to use WD40 but that's the only penetrating oil I have. I do have gun oil, CLP also. I bet the working back and forth will help a lot. Tires are 10 years old so I'm sure that bolt hasn't moved since then.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
What's interesting is I can rotate it back and forth almost a quarter turn but then it stops on either direction. I stopped trying since the heat here was over 100 for 10 days straight and I couldn't handle it. Now it's normal so I'll try again. I bet there is some burs on the threads where the cotter pin goes through the hole. It seems like it's rotating about that diameter. A wack with a hammer and breaker bar while someone holds the other side with the breaker bar will probably do the trick. Am I right in thinking that since they do easily move? They just bind up on either end of the rotation.
 

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If all else fails use a nut splitter to literally break the nut in two & then use a new one; if your axle is hollow as most are these days I'd check with a machine shop first in case the force generated by the splitter will cause deformation of the axle, it shouldn't but doesn't hurt to ask.

Once the axle is out you can then get the threads cleaned up properly with a 'die' so it doesn't happen again, The threads on axles tend to be fine so they can take the tightening torque/load so you MUST make sure the 'die' is an EXACT match. I'd also run a drill bit through the cotter pin hole too, not to drill it.out but just to clean so it would need to be a size match or slightly smaller.

If you have a bike wrecker handy you might be able to get an axle & nut combo for cheap that is in good condition.

Of course taking the bike to a machine shop where they have all the tools to do this is also an option (if you have one handy to your location).
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Dremel off the nut ..., re thread the axle , and carry on ..... get it done and over with ....,
Holy Smokes. I put the 2' breaker bar on the nut and let it rest on the ground and used the 18" and stepped on it till the nut came off. It took off all the threads going off. So weird. The threads were there beyond the nut to the end of the axle so I'd think it wasn't cross threaded on. It's off but now I'll need to hunt down an axle and nut.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
I paid way too much for mine , maybe it's the bike ....?
Offroad stuff cost more for some reason. I bet the 650r is super common and people wreck them more so an abundance of parts. I just sold a dr650 and offroad and dual sport bikes for beat up old ones are as much as decent street bikes.
 
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