[work765]

hi,

I'm getting clicking sound coming from my rear bearing area on the left side of the bike. How hard or easy is it to replace this bearing? Also do i have to buy the bearing from Kawasaki or can i go to a Bearing wholesaler? ALso someone mentioned when i take out the bearings i'm probably going to brake the seals, and will need to buy them from kawasaki; is this true??

 

[localbar]

I wish I was able to help you, this is on thing I have not touched on my bike yet. I would assume if you break the seal you would have to replace it ($7-10 the most) Are you sure you have a bearing problem and not a sprocket/chain problem?

Dave

 

[swjohnsey]

When you take out the bearing you will ruin the seal and the bearing. There are three bearing and seals in the rear wheel. When you take out the bearing and seal you will ruin them. You will find a number on each. This is the national number. With this you may be able to purchase the bearings and seals from a bearing house much cheaper than buying them from a dealer.

If they do not have it go to buykawasaki.com and get the part number and then go to ronayers.com and buy the parts.

As an example, today I went to the local Kawasaki dealer to prices the little shims used to adjust the valves. I was quoted a price of $13.50 each plus tax. Ron Ayers was $5.70.

 

[work765]

how do you remove the bearing from the cush drive? I removed tire and all the bearings look good except the one on the cush drive. It has no seals and the balls are coverd completly in crap. But i can't figure out how to remove that sucker.

thanks.

 

[redzx6r2000]

The bearings in my 2000 zx6r are NTN brand and all have LLU seals which means contact type neoprene seal. They are of a standard size that has an ISO standard number (mine are 6304 I think). Anyway, in my opinion the best ball races available are NSK brand and would be readily available from any bearing/eng' supply shop. The NSK designation for the contact seal on both sides of the bearing is DDU.

As to getting them out, they are not a heavy press fit in the hub so you should be able to "work" them out with out too much trouble. Having said that I haven't got the hub in front of me to look at, so I can't really give detailed instructions. Probably more important then removing them is the fitting of new ones as most premature bearing failures are a result of improper fitting/handling. The outer ring must be used as the "drive point" to push the bearing back into the hub. The rule is, drive the ring that is engaging the mating part. So in this case, as I said, drive the outer ring into the hub. Do not use the inner ring to drive in as you will place a thrust load onto the inner ring, through the balls and then onto the outer ring - THIS IS VERY BAD.

Tony

 

[swjohnsey]

I'm working off a '95-'97 manual but it should be the same. It shows a circlip on the outside of the bearing. It should be under the little spacer toward the side of the cush drive that is next to the swing arm. Take out the circlip and punch the bearing out for the wheel side. There should have been a grease seal over the bearing.