[96SNAKE016R]

Have any of you 00-02 guys messed with the stock setting on your bike? I'm thinking that it would be better to stiffen the rear up a little with the preload instead of doing it through compression damping. I'm only looking for a tiny bit more stiffness to set the sag.

If you did it, tell me what ool you used and if the nut clicks as with the other suspension adjusters.

Lance

Green/Black 01ZX6r. LP LP flushmount v's, tank guard. Removed decals, 2002 rear fairing, Pyramid hugger

96 SVT Cobra Black/Tan Vert 32V. Not stock!

93 Blue Probe GT 24V Commuter car.

 

[swjohnsey]

There is a special tool but I just use a BAS (Big Ass Screwdriver)and a hammer. Unscew the top nut then tighten down the bottom nut. When you have it the way you want it, tighten down the top nut

 

[96SNAKE016R]

How much did you have to move that bottom nut to notice any difference? Did this change your ride height in any way?

Green/Black 01ZX6r. LP LP flushmount v's, tank guard. Removed decals, 2002 rear fairing, Pyramid hugger

96 SVT Cobra Black/Tan Vert 32V. Not stock!

93 Blue Probe GT 24V Commuter car.

 

[swjohnsey]

I don't recall. I just keep tightening until I get the sag I am looking for which is about 1 3/8" (maybe a couple of turns or so). It will increase the ride height a little.

 

[redzx6r2000]

You can certainly use a hammer and screw driver as mentioned, BUT, the two castlated rings (nuts) are just mild steel and you can really butcher them using this method - especially if you change the preload often (I change mine often pending what I'm doing, track day, touring, two up etc).

You can buy whats called a "c" spanner, which looks like it sounds. It has a hook that grabs the slotted or castlated part of the nut, allowing you to turn it. It can be done with the rear wheel in place, but it's much easier with the wheel out as it gives you some room to move.

Changing the preload will have no effect on ride height, other then that associated with reducing satic sag in the spring when increasing the preload.

I suggest you first get a center punch and mark a spot on the load ring (the nut that actually loads the spring). That way you will always have a reference point so you know how far you have turned it. I keep a little piece of paper under the seat and log each adjustment ie. 2 turns preload direction from stock. Then when I want to change it again, I know where I'm working from.

Re how much you need to turn it?? Sag is a good check/measure, as mentioned. Personally I just go by seat of the pants feel. One turn is almost impossible for me to feel, 2 complete turns and I start to notice it.

Tony

 

[Joybringer]

FYI, one complete turn of the adjuster equates to 1mm of spring compression.

If you're a lardy, like me, my spring length is about 176mm - I weigh about 205lbs. I *think* the standard, factory set length is 180mm.

Bringer of all things Joyful