Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Remember a well maintained bike is a safe bike! Again, this is not a hard procedure, but please make sure you do it right. A bike that won't go is one thing, one that won't stop is another.

To start out with let's get our parts and tools ready:

Wrench and sockets
Brake caliper socket (not necessary, but very convient!)
Something to loosen the bolts a bit (WD-40)
Allen Keys
Needle Nose pliers
Torque Wrench

/images/how-to/brakes/1.jpg

and don't forget your new brake pads...

Again this procedure was done on a 2000 Kawasaki Ninja ZX6R, a few things may be slightly different for your bike, please refer to your service manual.

FRONT

IMPORTANT
Do not press the brake while doing this procedure as it will cause the brake pistons to push out and will become very difficult to change the pads!

To start out with remove any reflectors or the fender if necessory to gain access to the front caliper bolts(circled in purple).

/images/how-to/brakes/2.jpg

Once the caliper bolts are removed, slide the entire assembley off the disk and remove the brake pad retainer.

/images/how-to/brakes/3.jpg

Now remove the cotter pin with the needle nose pliers and slide out the sheer pin. The old pads should now fall out with ease.

/images/how-to/brakes/4.jpg

Push in the pistons flush so that the new pads will fit. Install new pads and reverse procedure by installing the sheer pin and cotter pin.

/images/how-to/brakes/5.jpg

The new pads should slide right in...

Reverse the procedure and put everything back like it was. Remember to torque the caliper bolts to specification.

/images/how-to/brakes/6.jpg

REAR

Gain access to the rear brake caliper bolts. Some bikes may require you to remove the pipe.

Remove the caliper bolts using the brake caliper socket, allen key or what ever it may be.

/images/how-to/brakes/7.jpg

Remove the entire brake assembly by sliding it over the disk then remove the cotter and sheer pin as you did on the front.

/images/how-to/brakes/8.jpg

To remove the old pads rotate the outside one up and then over and it should slide off. The other one should fall right out.

/images/how-to/brakes/9.jpg

Reverse the procedure to put it back together and torque all caliper bolts to the required specifications using the torque wrench. For the ZX6R it is 18-20 foot lbs.

Please don't rush, take your time and test everything in the drive way. It will take about 200 miles of to completley break in the new brakes.

This took me about 45 min to do all brakes and I was taking pictures along the way...very easy procedure!

/images/how-to/brakes/a.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
468 Posts
Good how-to. One thing i'll add that I like to do is to put a dab of anti-seize on the contact points of the pads where the caliper pistons meet. I also like to service the carrier pin with a light amount of sil-glide, and a dab of sil-glide on the contact points on the anti-rattle plate.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,471 Posts
You want to clean the piston before pushing it in. If you push in a dirty piston, dirt can collect behind the dust seal. The piston will then stick and the brake will shudder.

You also want to pump the lever to get a full lever and put the pad against the rotor before riding the bike. Otherwise, the brake will not work the first time you pull the lever.

On the 2003+ ZX-6R, the front caliper mounting bolts take 25 ft·lb and the front brake pad pins take 11 ft·lb.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
I have a 99 Zx6r. I just purchased the brake pads. Does anyone know the ft lb for the front calipers. and how do you adjust the ft lb on the pins?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
468 Posts
Originally posted by hotmnguy18
I have a 99 Zx6r. I just purchased the brake pads. Does anyone know the ft lb for the front calipers. and how do you adjust the ft lb on the pins?
The front calipers on a 98/99 is 25ft/lbs. I am sure it is the same for the J models as well. You cant torque the brake pad guide pin as it is only secured with a presto pin. Just make sure the pin is well cleaned of any dirt/debris/corrosion and lightly apply a little sill glide to the surface.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
477 Posts
What size should I order speedbleeders for my bike? I see SB7100S on the speedbleeder.com site. Is this correct? (Forget it. I already ordered the items)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,921 Posts
If you're just changing pads on the front there is no need to remove the front calipers,remove the sliver anti rattle clip, just push the pistons in with a screwdriver, take the hairclip out of the pin, slide the pin out and pull the pads through the backside of the caliper. slide new pads in and put it back together, no need to take calipers all the way off..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,921 Posts
If the pistons are clean they take little force to push back in, that and i dont pry on it, i make enough room between the rotor and pad and insert it between the two and rotate the screwdriver, assuming your using a flat blade its not a big deal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
689 Posts
I have my 2003 ZX-6R's rear brakes off in my garage right now. I cannot get the piston thing to slide back in so I can fit my new pads in with all the extra pad. I have tried FORCING the crap out of it with a big-ass pliers-no go. I can't get it to budge. I have really good leverage and everything. How do I get the piston/slider thing to go back farther inside the caliper housing so I can fit new pads into the rear? I tried opening the rear break resevoir cover hoping that would help-it didn't.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
368 Posts
Something I do also is bead blast (not sandblast) the rotors to remove all of the old brake pad material. This gives the new pads a good clean surface to bed into.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top