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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all can anyone point me in the right direction my bikes revs are sticking on 3/4 thousand until I rev it abit more or pull the clutch in,all I’ve done recently is changed the exhaust from arrow to original and oil and filter change ? It’s driving me mad ! Thanks.
 

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2011 Kawasaki ER-6F
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What year bike? Could be a problem with the auto choke / the ECU getting confused with the new system. If it's an older bike could be clogged injectors or a vacuum leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi Antares it’s a 2007 er6f yeah it sounds just something simple but it’s maddening ! It seems to get worse the warmer it gets ? Thanks.
 

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Will need a bit more info then, It can be too many things, a few questions:
1.Does it idle at that speed normally even after riding?
2:Is it only stuck when you start it up and once "unstuck" it's fine from thereafter?
3.Does the issue persist when shutting the bike down and restarting?
4:As it warms up do the revs keep climbing?

A couple things I would suggest checking:
5. Battery charge, see if it's charging fine.
6. Check idle speed/play around with the adjuster
7. Make sure the throttle is not stuck open
8. Disconnect O2 Sensor / PAIR valve sensor / Airbox temp sensor to see if any of them cause any changes.

To me it sounds like one/both of your injectors are stuck slightly open for whatever reason and when you manually change the throttle it responds.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Antares I think your knowledge is going to be really helpful,I drove for 5 miles the other day and there was no problem as I started to make my journey back as I was pulling up at round abouts or stopping at lights it started doing it it’s only briefly it happens until I rev it abit more or pull the clutch then it goes back to idle,there’s no problem when I’m starting or shutting down,I’ve tinkered with the idle to no success,last night I cleaned the fuel filter and couldn’t believe the dirt that came out so maybe something has made its way in to the injectors ? What’s the best way to clean them as il do it tonight when I finish work ? Also I’ll try disconnecting the sensors you suggested and let you know how I get on and again thank you.
 

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last night I cleaned the fuel filter and couldn’t believe the dirt that came out so maybe something has made its way in to the injectors ? What’s the best way to clean them as il do it tonight when I finish work ?
This could definitely be your problem, there are specific injector cleaner sprays and fuel additives, honestly not sure how well any of those work apart from that using compressed air + a soft brush can probably go a long way. Whilst you're in there though I would also check the coil plugs just to make sure those are all good.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Morning,hooray ! It was the o2 sensor I popped it out at the garage last night and what a difference ! Antares what do you think about the eliminate kit or do you think it’s a bad idea ? And thanks again
A27FC633-B07D-4789-BF29-297E14F9B932.png
 

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Morning,hooray ! It was the o2 sensor I popped it out at the garage last night and what a difference ! Antares what do you think about the eliminate kit or do you think it’s a bad idea ? And thanks again
Glad you could find the problem, honestly, I've ran my bike with O2 and pair valve delete since i bought it and still haven't gotten around to getting it tuned and it's just fine. If you're at it I'd do the pair delete too at the same time, it does improve low end response quite a bit even without a tune. GR rider was the one who recommended it to me and it's been great, if you want to I can link the thread with the exact parts, they've been perfect for me and reasonable in price.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah if you could that would be great,also I would like to pick your brains about my abs as my Light is on I’ve done the diagnostic check and it’s giving me code 35 I’ve only had the bike a couple of month and it was on when I got it but I would like to get it sorted.
 

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Yeah if you could that would be great,also I would like to pick your brains about my abs as my Light is on I’ve done the diagnostic check and it’s giving me code 35 I’ve only had the bike a couple of month and it was on when I got it but I would like to get it sorted.
Here you go, page 3 of this thread:


Ebay for O2 delete:
Pair delete:

My model is Non ABS so i don't know much about ABS That said Code 35 implies a faulty ABS motor. I'd check your connections/fuse and try to test if the abs works fine at low speed with both feet down (I take no responsibility but that's how I tested the ABS on my mom's Z300 😂)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Great there ordered,I’m going to spend today playing around with the abs fault and see what I can do,also thank you for the help I would never of got it sorted without you.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Out yesterday on the bike and it started the revving again not as bad but it’s still there🤬 Will still having the pair valve connected make a difference,just when you said do both I was wondering if one effected the other ?
 

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Out yesterday on the bike and it started the revving again not as bad but it’s still there🤬 Will still having the pair valve connected make a difference,just when you said do both I was wondering if one effected the other ?
Not as far as I'm aware it's just one of those things that go hand in hand with the other, like when you buy a new exhaust you don't necessarily need to get a new air filter but you usually would get one anyway.if that's not the issue then I'd keep looking in the fuelling area. Does the O2 sensor definitely make a difference? If you disconnect it and reconnect it? If so it might even be ECU related but fingers crossed it's not.
 

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Probably have to replace it but I wouldn't think an intermittent issue is necessarily ECU related.
 
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