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Discussion Starter #1
anyone know how to rewire this bike for racing?
What I want to do is get rid of the highbeam/lowbeam setup on the left handle bar...on the gixxers you just butt connect 2 wires on the wiring harness
Also wanna know how to get rid of the ignition and be able to turn the bike on via the run/kill swith on the left handle bar and totally eliminate the ignition
 

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have you tried cutting the ignition open to see how the wires connect? you could try that then just do the same for your kill switch and if it looks like you can switch the wires across do it..don't see why it wouldn't work. as for the light stuff just rip it out?
my two cents...might be wrong i'm just using logic..i'm no electric guru
 

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Discussion Starter #3
naaahh..your not seeing what i mean..i wanna get rid of the whole black box on left clipon that has the high beam/lowbeam..but it also has wires for the clutch handle..these wires need to be found at the main plug and be wired to one another and i dont knwo the color of these wires..
as far as the ignition, when you ditch it and send it to the on/off button, you have to rewire a bunch of crap as well as put a relay in there
 

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Did you get more information and care to share? I'm starting this very task myself. I have the manual with schemtics so I can try to give you wire colors if you are still looking.

I have not cut any wires yet so trust me at your own risk, but the clutch starter lockout should go from Bk and Bk/R at the lever to R/G and G/W at the first connector in the front. This is where I plan to jumper R/G and G/W on the half of the connector I'm willing to leave.

I plan to jumper the kickstand wires at the plug.

This leaves the ignition to kill switch. I assume the relay is to keep the higher current draw across the white and brown ignition wires from frying the kill switch. Anyone have advice on what kind of current draws we are talking about or know what size/type relay is needed if it even matters? With no lights, is the current draw enough to require a relay or isn't it the lights you need to worry about?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
the kickstand wire is easily..i just cut the plug off and butt connected the two wires together.

I havent tryed yet, cause i have had no feedback...On my gixxer i needed the relay dont know about the kawi.
 

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I've been looking at the wiring diagram a bit and it seems like a lot of relay circuits exist (starter, head light, ecu, fuel pump) so I'm still unsure how much current the starter switch takes. Maybe the dash is the bulk of it. I'm hoping I can hijack a no longer needed relay to hook up the kill switch mod. I'm at a bit of a disadvantage in that my bike is inside for the winter so I can't do any running bike testing until spring. Unless... I wonder if I can use a large flex-tube to route the exhaust gas to the bathroom vent.... I can hear the girlfriend screaming at me already. Just kidding by the way.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thats better that your inside..all u need to work on is wiring anyways, and then take notes..if the bike fires up, your golden..lemme know LOL
 

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do you think the new zx6r is like the new r6 where you have to have the kit wire harness to do that? on my 2001 the ignition is run through a on/off switch and the kill switch is still seperate.
 

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Do you know why you need the kit wire harness for the R6 or where I could get more information about it? I could see if it provided factory matching plugs so you didn't have to cut and splice wires it would be nice, but I'm not afraid to do that. I've wrecked far harder to fix things than a few wires before.

I was originally going to just use a toggle switch but this thread got me thinking it would be cleaner/cooler to use the kill switch which you have to have anyway and I've been told it will still pass tech which was my other concern.
 

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I had my friend who's an electrician do it. I asked him to explain how he did it for me, but he doesn't speak English very well and thought I was asking to borrow his wife or something. He got kinda mad and threw a stone at my neighbor. Sorry I can't help you there.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
lmmfao...what?
 

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i need to do this too for 95 zx6r exact same description as original thread remove light box on left clip on and remove ignition key to start via off run switch

if you guys have any links that may help for 95 zx6r let me know
i will go post this also at tristatesportbikes.c
[email protected]
 

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Danger, Will Robinson! Danger!

I bribed a hardware engineer buddy of mine over with the promise of beer and we tore into this a bit more.

There is a 1/8 watt, 100 ohm resistor right in the ignition switch on the grey wire to the ECU. We measured that it drops the voltage to the ECU by a little over 2 volts (so probably 12 to 10). So if you plan to replace the ignition switch with any other switch (toggle or run/stop) and you want it to be 100% like the ignition, you will need a resistor in there as well. With out it, you will be sending 12 volts down the grey wire to the ECU instead of 10 (assuming I understood what he was saying).

My friend seemed surprised to see it in the switch and babbled on about what kind of circuit is probably in the ECU with words like "filtering the power" and "caps". We came to the conculsion that the ECU should be designed to take 12 volts, but then again, why risk it when the resistor is a 5 cent part.

To get that far we had to take the top tripple off and spent a long time messing around with my meter only to discover that I had long ago blown out the unfused 10amp setting so we could not get a reading of the total current draw with no accessories. But my friend seemed to think the run/stop switch should be more than good enough so no relay should be needed.

So it's off to RatShack for a resistor and after lengthy debates we decided I should get some automotive quality connectors instead of just twisting the wires like I wanted to do. So still no wire cutting, but soon.

I have a hand drawing he sketeched out of the switch with the resistor and the three wires you care about (white, brown, and grey) I could try to get into a .jpg if anyone cares. It's pretty much white into the switch, brown out and grey out, but grey has the resistor on it.

Obviously, anyone should double check my findings before doing anything to their bike so if you go messing with it and wreck something based on this, I'll feel for you, but that's about it.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
thats nto hot wiring a bike at all...hot wiring means getting it and going in a matter of seconds..to rewire it right will take u probably over an hour..but makes it soooo nice not needing a key at the track
 

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It took me and a friend about 2 hours last night with it mostly going as expected. It works as well as can be tested in the house (the bike turns on and off and the starter turns the bike over).

Assuming I get all the picture uploads correct, here is a play by play of what I did. Note I am in no way making any claims that this is correct. If you just blindly follow what I did and it wrecks your bike, don't come crying to me (unless you bring beer to share).

First, here is a picture of the parts I settled on using. They are the 100 ohm resistor, wire taps (RatShack part #64-3052) and a three position GM Weather Pack (tm) setup which consists of parts: 85305 Cable Seals, 85307 16-14 Gauge Male, 85308 16-14 Gauge Female, 85319 3 Wire Male Housing, and 85320 3 Wire Female housing. Also an 11 year old tube of silicone with duct tape for a cap.


The wire Tap-Ins where used for jumpering removed switchs (kick stand and the original run/stop wires. I injected the silicone into the taps before putting them on so they would be all nice and sealy sealed so the wires won't corrode over time from having the ends exposed. Here are pictures after jumpering the kickstand and original run/stop.



Here is the point of no return after cutting off the ignition plug and the two run/stop (soon to be ignition) wires. Note that I just used electrical tape to tape the ends of the two no longer needed wires from the ignition plug.


This is after putting all the GM Weather Pack ends on with the resistor across the grey and brown wires. The GM connectors are supposed to be crimped with a special tool that costs $100. My experiments indicated that just smashing them with a pliers is not strong enough (especially with the resistor in there). So I soldered them on. The wires and connectors are so big and suck up heat so fast that I had to get out the "big gun" 45 watt soldering iron and be very carefull not to melt things. I put the male ends on the switch and the female ends on the white, brown+resistor, and grey+resistor side). Note also that the Cable Seals (85305) go on before you crimp/solder the wires.


Here I have put the connectors on. One switch line to the white and the other switch line to the brown+resistor. The grey+resistor just hangs out in the third slot by itself. The idea here was that this isolates the resistor from tugs on the cable (such as when I lowside in turn one at Blackhawk Farms, again, and the clip-on gets ripped off , again). Time will tell if that step was worth it or not. You could get by with a smaller two wire plug if you did it a little different. Note that not pictured is that I wrapped plug and resistor with tape to keep it from shorting out on the frame or anything else.


And here's one last shot of what I did with the choke cable using a piece of tubing and a wire crimp thingy-ma-jig.


One last thing. I did not splice/jumper the clutch switch. I don't think I will need to. I think it just means I have to be in neutral to start the bike which I'm OK with. Otherwise the bike would try to start in gear with the clutch out like my old 916. If I have to do that, the wires are right up front so it can be done easily at any time.
 
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