[luminescient]

I have a 95 '6R and I just installed a full set of D&D pipes and had a Dyno jet kit installed, and now it is rough under 2000 rpm's. Also, when I stop after riding (stoplights, signs, etc.) I have to keep a little bit of gas on or it tends to die on me. It is not hard to start up again, but it is a pain in the ass and it distracts me from using my front brake as much as I like to. The shop that I had do it has a fairly good reputation from what I have heard, and the head mechanic told me that it is because of the pipes that I have. He said they do not have some air restrictor thingy (not sure what he was talking about). After it hits about 2000 rpm's it really takes off. My local Kawasaki dealer told me that my bike should not have any problems and should be real smooth all the way through the power band. I am not sure which, if either, is telling the truth. Any insight?

Step 1-Twist handle
Step 2-Hold on!

 

[csoto23]

I believe that below 4k rpm, you are supposed to play with the idle bleed screw but the more technical guys can help you out there.

 

[swjohnsey]

I am curious which Dynojet kit they used and what main jets they ended up using. Did they alter the float height?

Anyway, below 4,000 rpm is pilot screws and float height. Because it is dying on hard braking I might try to lower the fuel level/raise the float height.

I have a Factory Pro 1.7 kit in my '95 and it will pull smoothly from 2,000 rpm and has a rock steady idle at 1,100 rpm. No flat spots or stumbles anywhere.

 

[luminescient]

Hmm, I will try to find out which kit that they used. In the meantime, does the claim that it is caused by the pipes have a chance of holding any water, or are they blowing smoke?

Step 1-Twist handle
Step 2-Hold on!

 

[swjohnsey]

Sounds like smoke to me.

 

[linm]

"Because it is dying on hard braking I might try to lower the fuel level/raise the float height."

Wait a second, is this a real problem? cause when I brake hard, sometimes my engine dies as well, I always thought maybe it was my sloppy play on the clutch or something while braking hard. (Could this be b/c my idle bleed thingamajiggy is out of whack?) i have a yosh slip on with no jet kit or any kind of carb tuning.

Also, sometimes when i brake real hard, I feel like the bike drops out of gear, and when i go to downshift, I hear that lovely grinding sound.

Originally posted by swjohnsey

I am curious which Dynojet kit they used and what main jets they ended up using. Did they alter the float height?

Anyway, below 4,000 rpm is pilot screws and float height. Because it is dying on hard braking I might try to lower the fuel level/raise the float height.

I have a Factory Pro 1.7 kit in my '95 and it will pull smoothly from 2,000 rpm and has a rock steady idle at 1,100 rpm. No flat spots or stumbles anywhere.

 

[dj dunzie]

Luminescient, just a dumb question here... but what do you have your post-warmup idle set at? Could it be it's just plain idling too low?

"Keep yer feet on the pegs and your right hand cranked."

 

[luminescient]

That's not a dumb question. It is set at about 12 or 13 hundred, and my mechanic said I shouldn't really raise it anymore. I just got an email from the nice guys at D&D today, and they claimed that their pipes "do not require rejetting," which is a load of bull as it ran like crap before rejetting. They also said to either raise the idle or put it back to the factory spec jetting, but the factory jetting sucked with it, and I don't want to raise my jetting a whole bunch...

Step 1-Twist handle
Step 2-Hold on!

 

[ninjabinja]

i have a 95 zx6r with full d&d and jet kit. my bike has a serious lag from off idle to about 8000 rpm. theres even a lag at wide open throttle. i've been messing with the pilot screws and found a setting that for one day made my bike run perfect. but the lag is back and ever since i've been messing with the pilot screws but have come up with nothing so far. don't mean to hog the forum but thought that maybe the problems were related. any ideas? thanks

 

[Spydr26]

well for starters jetting has nothing to do with your idle circuit, jets only affect wide open throttle, and your needles only affect your mid range, What you should be looking at is did they open the air screw to 3 turns this will help also did they install the idle air circuit plugs that came with the jet kit. It sounds like they did a bad job with your jet kit. The bike should run fine with out rejetting if all you did was change the slip on however, it will run better with the jet kit. Also have you tried doing the Kleen mod, that helped a ton with curing the problems with my bike.

 

[clearsector]

I have a Micron and had the same fluctuating idle. Notching up the idle helps. I also installed a power commander and removed the kleen air sys which also showed improvement

 

[ninjabinja]

what is the kleen mod?