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Hey guys did my oil change Friday night and today realized, that I used normal royal purple instead of the motorcycle oil. Is this bad to run on for a while. or is there something thats in car oil that will hurt my bike? Ir ran fine all weekend and this morning but im getting nervous now
 

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From the web:
"Using automotive oil in motorcycles causes serious damage. In automotive vehicles, the engine is always separate from the clutch and transmission so they have separate oils for each. In automotive engine oil, there is more of what is called "friction modifiers" to help lessen the amount of friction on engine components and improve fuel economy. Of course, improving fuel economy has always been the main goal of the automotive industry making friction modifiers a necessity for all automotive oils.
These friction modifiers that are added to automotive oils are what cause serious damages when used in motorcycles. The friction modifiers clog the clutch plates in a motorcycle's transmission causing serious clutch slippage and disabling the motorcycle. You see, for motorcycles to be as compact as they are, they have to combine their engine and transmission into one casing. This means that everything is lubricated by only one type of oil including the valves, piston, transmission, and clutch.
Motorcycles require very little and/or no friction modifiers to help improve clutch friction and to prevent clutch slippage. But to make up for this lack of friction modifiers, motorcycle oils use higher levels of anti-wear additives such as ZDDP, also known as phosphorous, to limit engine friction and wear. Since motorcycle oil has extra anti-wear additives and is lubricating so much more than automotive oil, you can expect to pay anywhere from $9 to $15 a quart."

So although it's not a crisis - you should do another oil change when you get a chance and use motorcycle specific oil.

 

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And we all know everything you read on the web is true. There's a Cliff Claven blathering on somehwere all the time.

Automotive engines have plenty of sliding friction areas that require the same additives as gears do....namely the valve train - lifters/cams/timing chain etc.....some even have gears for driving oil pumps, distrubutors and cams.

Generally 10w40 and thicker oils have none of the friction modifiers anyway.

High quality oils, like Royal Purple start with great base stocks, add very little or no VI improvers and generally have a very good additive package...lots of good secondary lubricators, lots of anti wear additives and "detergents", etc.

I suspect a little poking around on the internet you can find an oil analysis of royal purples 10w40 (though they have a few lines of oil I think)....I'd only be concerned about clutch slippage if they use a lot of moly as part of the secondary lubricators.

Run it....it will be fine. In the mean time, give them a call, or email, ask them if they use molybdenum in their additive package. I spoke with them on the phone in the past and they were polite and helpful.
 

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You can run auto oil as long as the bottom of the circle on the back doesnt say "energy conserving" like this.



Got a guy on another forum that has over 200k on his F4i and ran Mobil 1 car oil. I run Rotella triple protection 15w-40 in my bikes. Im now running Rotella T6 5w-40 synthetic in my VFR.
 

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And we all know everything you read on the web is true. There's a Cliff Claven blathering on somehwere all the time.

Automotive engines have plenty of sliding friction areas that require the same additives as gears do....namely the valve train - lifters/cams/timing chain etc.....some even have gears for driving oil pumps, distrubutors and cams.

Generally 10w40 and thicker oils have none of the friction modifiers anyway.

High quality oils, like Royal Purple start with great base stocks, add very little or no VI improvers and generally have a very good additive package...lots of good secondary lubricators, lots of anti wear additives and "detergents", etc.

I suspect a little poking around on the internet you can find an oil analysis of royal purples 10w40 (though they have a few lines of oil I think)....I'd only be concerned about clutch slippage if they use a lot of moly as part of the secondary lubricators.

Run it....it will be fine. In the mean time, give them a call, or email, ask them if they use molybdenum in their additive package. I spoke with them on the phone in the past and they were polite and helpful.
I keep seeing people saying not to run moly. My local honda shop only sells the honda synthetic w/ moly. I ran it for two years with no problems in my VFR. I guess it depends on how you ride or your clutch or clutch packs. I dont run it any more because of the high price.
 

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And we all know everything you read on the web is true.
(Actually the info in that article is pretty accurate).
-It was faster to just cut and paste existing info from the web than try to explain what friction modifiers are and how they could possibly damage a bike etc. etc. etc.-

The point is - oil isn't that expensive. Most bikes only hold a couple quarts. So why bother risking possible damage - just spend the $18 and do another oil change using the correct oil and you wont have to stress about it.

Done.
 

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(Actually the info in that article is pretty accurate).
-It was faster to just cut and paste existing info from the web than try to explain what friction modifiers are and how they could possibly damage a bike etc. etc. etc.-

The point is - oil isn't that expensive. Most bikes only hold a couple quarts. So why bother risking possible damage - just spend the $18 and do another oil change using the correct oil and you wont have to stress about it.

Done.
True but car oil isnt going through their transmission too so people that change their oil more often than others, it can add up quickly.
 

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No idea what your point was on that response. If the OP is afraid that he might do damage to his bike because he used the wrong oil - then it's worth the $18 bucks to do another oil change so he doesn't have to worry about it. No doubt there will be posts on both sides of the fence on if its gonna do damage or not. So why worry - just change to the correct oil.
 

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Motorcycle oil is for Motorcycles, thats why it says it on the container!!
I change mine every 800 miles, and only use Dino oil, tried every brand known to
man. Finally I decided to go with Kawasaki 20w50. They built the fuckin thing,
they outa know what it needs!! Change it out.
 

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No idea what your point was on that response. If the OP is afraid that he might do damage to his bike because he used the wrong oil - then it's worth the $18 bucks to do another oil change so he doesn't have to worry about it. No doubt there will be posts on both sides of the fence on if its gonna do damage or not. So why worry - just change to the correct oil.
My point was that there is no reason to spend $10 or more on a quart of oil just because it says motorcycle on it. I get your point on having the OP change his oil if he's going to lose sleep over it. I was just pointing out that there are a ton of riders that use car or diesel oils with no ill affects.

I've never ran car oil but I've been running diesel oil for 2 years now and both bikes are still on the road. I do know some that run car oils with no problem. They just stay away from the "energy conserving" ones.

I personally just don't like the price of bike manufacture oils. I have two bikes that equal over 5 quarts. Five quarts at $10 a pop is high. Then throw in oem filters it's ridiculous. I know prices can vary from dealership to dealership. It's just another thing that keeps me away from dealerships and I should want to go there.

I do change my oil in my ER-6N often since it doesn't have an oil cooler and holds just a tad under two quarts. An oil cooler is on the mod list. My VFR is my main bike with over 50k miles now. I've ran Honda synthetic w/ moly, Mobile 1 syn (moto), Rotella Triple Protection, and now Rotella T6 syn. My bike runs the same with anyone of these. No metal flakes on the drain bolt magnet, no metal/foreign objects in the oil filters I take apart or when straining the oil. I've taken my valve covers off to check my valve clearances and the whole assembly is clean as a whistle with no markings. Gear driven cams don't help with letting oil last either.


So after all my blah blahing. My point is for the OP to do some research as I wish for everyone to do before freaking out and come up with your own choice. You can ask thousands of people but unless they're wearing a white coat and surrounded by lab equipment, you're going to get different answers. It's your decision OP.
 

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My point was that there is no reason to spend $10 or more on a quart of oil just because it says motorcycle on it. I get your point on having the OP change his oil if he's going to lose sleep over it. I was just pointing out that there are a ton of riders that use car or diesel oils with no ill affects.

I've never ran car oil but I've been running diesel oil for 2 years now and both bikes are still on the road. I do know some that run car oils with no problem. They just stay away from the "energy conserving" ones.

I personally just don't like the price of bike manufacture oils. I have two bikes that equal over 5 quarts. Five quarts at $10 a pop is high. Then throw in oem filters it's ridiculous. I know prices can vary from dealership to dealership. It's just another thing that keeps me away from dealerships and I should want to go there.

I do change my oil in my ER-6N often since it doesn't have an oil cooler and holds just a tad under two quarts. An oil cooler is on the mod list. My VFR is my main bike with over 50k miles now. I've ran Honda synthetic w/ moly, Mobile 1 syn (moto), Rotella Triple Protection, and now Rotella T6 syn. My bike runs the same with anyone of these. No metal flakes on the drain bolt magnet, no metal/foreign objects in the oil filters I take apart or when straining the oil. I've taken my valve covers off to check my valve clearances and the whole assembly is clean as a whistle with no markings. Gear driven cams don't help with letting oil last either.


So after all my blah blahing. My point is for the OP to do some research as I wish for everyone to do before freaking out and come up with your own choice. You can ask thousands of people but unless they're wearing a white coat and surrounded by lab equipment, you're going to get different answers. It's your decision OP.

I don't like the price of motorcycle oil either , but i did swap it out last night will bike oil I did't want me bike with 900 mile to start off on the wrong food if it could "possibly do damage"
 

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If you don't like the price of motorcycle oil then why not just use Rotella T5 15-40 dino oil for about $14/gal? It's JASO MA certified, many bikers use it and it's a very robust oil.

The problem wan't using a car oil it was using royal diarrhea. They use such poor base stocks they have to add a lot of polymers to get it to perform and the polymers break down very quickly resulting in a diaster in just a few hundred miles. By far the worst oil I've ever tested, even worse than Dino oils.
 

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Don't know if anyone has heard of this oil, I used it for a full
season and liked it alot,but supplier moved and can't find it now
except on EBAY. Brad Penn Oil, The Green Oil.
 
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