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Discussion Starter #1
I am planning on racing my ex's 250 (I am cosigner, and she couldn't afford it, so I kept it) next season. My list of upgrades for this are as follows:

Yoshi or Area P full exhaust
Factory Pro Jet Kit
Airbox removal
Woodcraft clip ons
Woodcraft rearsets
Ohlins or Penske shock
Race Tech fork springs
Brembo radial master cylinder
SS Brake lines
The usual race trim (Fairings, toe guard, tires, etc...)

I am thinking that all these parts will come at about $3k. I am also going to talk to a couple shop owners here in town about some engine work (I already checked the rules for the class I will be in and it is legal).

Thoughts/Opinions/Recommendations?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It will be a project all year this year to get it up to snuff, but as I piece it together I'll post up progress.

As for the 600 argument, I will nip that in the butt right here. As you can see from my signature picture, that is a 2003 636 that I am bending into a corner. I have a 600, and I don't want to race it. I would rather race the 250 for financial reasons and just for the pure joy of it.
 

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Save your money on the major engine work. Port and polish the head and call it a day. Otherwise it gets expensive real quick just ask me how I know :D
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Save your money on the major engine work. Port and polish the head and call it a day. Otherwise it gets expensive real quick just ask me how I know :D
I am buddies with a guy who owns a race shop here local, so I am going to see what he has to say about it. I suspect it will be almost word for word what you just said.
 

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You can put out decent numbers. The last built motor I had done put down 38 hp. Also cost about $2000-$2500 just for the head work. The problem is the margin for error is super small. Cams are out of the question we had some done they gave us 2 extra hp the clearance was the main issue so we didn't go with them.

I have wera racers putting down 33hp+ with an ignition upgrade and race fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You can put out decent numbers. The last built motor I had done put down 38 hp. Also cost about $2000-$2500 just for the head work. The problem is the margin for error is super small. Cams are out of the question we had some done they gave us 2 extra hp the clearance was the main issue so we didn't go with them.

I have wera racers putting down 33hp+ with an ignition upgrade and race fuel.
What are they doing with the ignition? Just advancing the timing or is there a product similar to the add on for the PCIII?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I just noticed your signature right before you posted that up. The issue I am going to have is that on the 250 I will be competing against people on 'tards, so I will be forced to corner at WFO. I am looking at racetech suspension parts (probably the best investment), and that should assist with keeping the corner speed retarded high.

What did you run for tire sizes? I saw some ran 140/70 rear, with a 110/70 front. Is a 120/70 front a worthwhile endeavor?
 

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Some run 120's some run 110's. I kept the 110's on mine 140 on the rear with a bt003rs. Race tech is a good investment for $100 since the stock fork is more like a pogo stick. Stiffening up the front will let you brake later into the turns and it really helps gobble up the slow poke 600's in the corner.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Some run 120's some run 110's. I kept the 110's on mine 140 on the rear with a bt003rs. Race tech is a good investment for $100 since the stock fork is more like a pogo stick. Stiffening up the front will let you brake later into the turns and it really helps gobble up the slow poke 600's in the corner.
Well, I found some other racetech stuff for the forks, and it looks like grand total for the forks is about 3 bills. They have a custom built rear shock for a grand, but for that I think I will go with the Ohlins, then head to GP Suspension and get the Ohlins set up for my fat ass.
 

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Don't waste your money on the emulators. Just swapping the springs and puting in beefier oil should be enough. I don't use ohlins on my bike so no help there.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Don't waste your money on the emulators. Just swapping the springs and puting in beefier oil should be enough. I don't use ohlins on my bike so no help there.
Yeah, I am still going to chat it over with the race shop and the guys at GP and see what they think the best route for suspension is. I am just afraid of trying to easter egg the correct springs and fluid weight. I hate trial and error, but I realize that sometimes it is the best course of action.

Did you do much gearing changes or did you find stock or +1 or +2 on the rear worked well? I am not too keen on going down any on the front, but sometimes it is necessary for getting the proper ratio. The track I will be on is Portland International Raceway, so the front straight and rear straight are stupid long.
 

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You consulting with EDR about the bike build and racing with OMRRA, I assume?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
You consulting with EDR about the bike build and racing with OMRRA, I assume?
No and yes. SDS, though I plan to talk to Eric (EDR), Tyson (SDS), and Ron (RPM) about the engine work. All my parts come through Tyson. And yes, I am looking at the OMRRA Lightweight Superbike and Ultra Lightweight Superbike classes.
 

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Cool man! PIR is a long as track for a 250!
 

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No joke. I can take a nap on my 636 down the front, I can't imagine what it would be like on the 250. Maybe read a book? Cook dinner?
See if you can build one of those ship in a bottle things.
 
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