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Discussion Starter #1
I've been busy dialing in my baby this past month and have been giddy the entire time. :) now it's time to relax and ride and I figured I would share the results. I got a set of Kawi lime green Core Moto SS braided brake lines for a birthday gift. The front has a dual banjo at the master cylinder with an individual line going to each front caliper. Loving em! I put them too the test at my first track day last week.

Next I changed out the chain and sprockets. I went with a black EK mvxz chain, a black vortex steel rear sprocket, and a JT front sprocket.

I stuck with stock gearing even though I was on the fence of dropping a tooth in front. But my home track is a fast track with a .9 mile front straight! Minus the optional chicane. The back straight is pretty friggin long too. I was getting up in the 160 range on the front and still couldn't catch some liter bikes.
Last but not least came the dyno tune. A well respected tuner from Seattle was coming down to Portland this past weekend and even though I was broke I wasn't missing out. His name is Nels. He smoothed out my bike to perfection! A lot more roll on power down low, and did I mention silky smooth? :) here's the dyno sheet...not bad for 19k on the clock.

Anyways it's been a fun couple of weeks and I could barely sleep thinking about my bike and first track day! Haha
 

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Every rider is different but I for one, am willing to sacrifice a couple of mph if it means getting better drive out of the corners. My local track has 4 different layouts varying between 8 and 18 corners. Most races are in either the 18 or the 12 corners layout, there's no way I can make enough ground in top gear to get back what I lost in corner exit.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I hear ya, I probably will buy a -1 front sprocket and give it a try. I'm riding more twisties than track anyways right now. Oh yeah, and I wasn't one of the lucky ones who could break that front sprocket nut loose...I bought that electric impact wrench from harbor freight which supposedly puts out like 230 ft/lbs and it didn't do shit. So the Yamaha dealer down the street where I bought the chain said they would break it loose for me. It took their best snap on impact wrench 3 tries to bust it loose! Pretty cool of them.
Changing the gearing won't mess with my tune right?
 

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No...gearing will not have anything to do with the tune.

I'd also do -1 front. I top my bike out at CotA and TWS just briefly before I have to slow down for the coming turns. But like mentioned, the drive out of the corners makes up a lot.
-Cody
 

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-1 in the front is like 2-3 in the rear. I think you could go -1 in the front or +2 in the Rear and will be fine. I have -1 Front and +2 Rear but on the fast tracks I change the Front to stock gearing and Im fine.

Whoever tuned your bike did a very good job. He looks like a very good tuner. Its very smooth and he got rid of that annoying ~10,000rpm dip.

Whats the 107 Dyno pull compared to the 111?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yeah, Nels(2wheeldynoworks) is well respected in this neck of the woods and I'm extremely happy how smooth it is now. The 107 reading was the baseline, the first pull with the way I brought the bike in to him. I was using a map that I THOUGhT was the closest to use off the dyno jet web site. They didn't have one for the evolution with k&n. they had full race version with stock filter. Nels pretty much laughed when he saw how rich it was running, he told me I was just dumping fuel and I'd probably pick up an extra 40 miles per tank as well with the tune. The 111+ hp was where he was happy with the tune and called it good.
 

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Ya I figured it was the Baseline but wasnt sure where you got it from as in was it the Baseline before or after any mods or just a comparison of before and after tuning it which you say it is.

So you gained almost 4.5rwhp and almost 2ft.lbs just from a good tune. Thats impressive!!

I noticed its reading in STD and not SAE where theres a difference of anywhere from 2-3rwhp in the readings but non the less your gains will still be the same.

Yes I can tell hes a good tuner by looking at the graph.
 

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we have alot of short tracks around here except road america, but its pretty much a snooze fest with 3 long straights, i run -1/+2 a virtually every track, with an occasional change to +1 in the rear instead. also, those steel sprockets are heavy as hell!! my dealer ordered me one on accident and it haven't taken it out of the package LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #9
we have alot of short tracks around here except road america, but its pretty much a snooze fest with 3 long straights, i run -1/+2 a virtually every track, with an occasional change to +1 in the rear instead. also, those steel sprockets are heavy as hell!! my dealer ordered me one on accident and it haven't taken it out of the package LOL
Yeah I definitely enjoy the turns way more, the good thing about the long straights was that I could pass most of the people that were gonna slow me up in turns. Haha. I have a -1 front on the way so I'll give that a try. I only went with steel for durability, they didn't seem any heavier than stock, but yeah they are heavy. And I swear my front wheel feels heavier since the switch. I'm hoping its just my suspension that needs to be dialed in(this weekend I'm taking care of that) but could it be he chain and sprocket setup? By heavier front wheel I mean when I am ripping at the top of first into second the wheel always use to come up. Not anymore, but it does feel like i have too much rear squat going on. I'm gonna have a tuner dial that in and then we'll see I guess.
 

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I'm reading this on my mobile but it made not sense at to me... hahaha you changed the rear sprocket and your front wheel feel heavier? WTF??

As for steel vs Aluminum, go with steel if you still ride it on the road. It's on the stop and go from traffic that you wear your sprockets/chain the most and the aluminum one will give you no advantage on the road to compensate for the wear.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Haha, I changed everything out both sprockets and chain. I don't mean literally heavy, I mean its not coming off the ground when shifting at high rpms like it was.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yeah, Nels(2wheeldynoworks) is well respected in this neck of the woods and I'm extremely happy how smooth it is now. The 107 reading was the baseline, the first pull with the way I brought the bike in to him. I was using a map that I THOUGhT was the closest to use off the dyno jet web site. They didn't have one for the evolution with k&n. they had full race version with stock filter. Nels pretty much laughed when he saw how rich it was running, he told me I was just dumping fuel and I'd probably pick up an extra 40 miles per tank as well with the tune. The 111+ hp was where he was happy with the tune and called it good.
Uh yeah, 40 extra miles per tank is not happening. Maybe 4. Haha. I don't care because I'm extremely happy with how my bike runs now but man the light comes on in the mid 80's mile range and I'd better get gas before 105 miles on a full tank.
 

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Uh yeah, 40 extra miles per tank is not happening. Maybe 4. Haha. I don't care because I'm extremely happy with how my bike runs now but man the light comes on in the mid 80's mile range and I'd better get gas before 105 miles on a full tank.
Wow, that is using a LOT of fuel! I have -1/+2 on mine, and my light doesn't come on until the 115 - 125 mile range!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Wow, that is using a LOT of fuel! I have -1/+2 on mine, and my light doesn't come on until the 115 - 125 mile range!
Hmm, I think I remember those days...I definitely remember getting 100 miles before the light came on. To be fair the last tank included a 20 minute track session, and all the other miles are in the twisties. But a few were stuck behind cars doing the speed limit. :)
 
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