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Then I would get royal purple and call it a day
Imagine the performance gains going from a car motor to a high rpm bike motor and running it through a transmission.
get ready and hold on tight:nerd:
 

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I just read another report about Royal Purple on line: Track Guys Royal Purple Performance Lubricant. A guy bought a brand new Mustang. They did a dyno
run with the stock oils in the car. Then they drained the stock oils and added Royal Purple and did another run. The increase with the Royal Purple was quite substantial in torque and horsepower, and
they showed the Dyno Report and graph. I've read other reports about motorcycles too. But how do I know if it's true or not? I
suppose I hope that people tell the truth.
A few years back, when I was building engines for our sprint and endurance racing middleweight superbikes, Dave Rash (D&D) offered us a case of RP. We had been running Mobil 1. Back to back, on the same dyno on the same day with ambient temps within three degrees, the RP was worth 3~4 HP. We raced the endurance bike to second place (by just 12 miles) over the season of 10 races lasting from 4 to 24 hours. No problems. The sprint bike was just as successful although it was tuned for more peak RPM while the endurance bike was tuned for broader mid-range. None of the engines showed abnormal wear.

Just two data points, but that's what we learned.
 

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Just to chime in I'm in the industry and have heard a lot about Motul's new 10w-40 called 300V being really good stuff. I'm definitely going to give it a go!
 

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I think everyone should try several oils- for me it is all about shifting smoothness and clutch feel.


An extreme anti-mixer for oil posted this on a Ferrari forum, if you really want to be "neurotic" about any oil mixing:


"For the first oil change in my 575 Maranello I drained the Shell and put in 0W-30 Mobil 1. This was at a few hundred miles on the odometer.

I drove the car home from work, put it on the lift and drained the transaxle and engine oils. I also opened and drained the oil cooler and took off every line that is in the oil system.

I wanted to get every speck of the Shell oil out of there. For optimal results you are not supposed to mix synthetic oils of different brands.

The system takes 12 quarts with a “normal” oil change but took 15 quarts for this change. It all took about an hour. I then started the engine to check for leaks. The multitude of mechanical engine noises that followed nearly broke my eardrums for about 10 long seconds.

Then it was suddenly very quiet. You could hear a pin drop. There was certainly the most possible amount of surface oil on all the internal parts as the engine was only off for an hour. But it was not until the oil circuit primed, filled, then sent flow into all the parts that any lubrication was occurring."

From:
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FerrariChat.com - FAQ: Motor Oil Articles by Dr. Ali E. Haas (AEHaas)
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I would like to see independent motorcycle oil testing (not published by Amsoil or some other company that wants certain results while hiding other results, such as leaving out Rotella and Red Line oils) that is newer than 2003. As far as I know, it does not exist.
 
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Mixing oil sounds like work. Just get a jug of Rotella T6 5W-40 or T Triple 15W-40 and call it a day. :)
 

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I tried the Rotellas, without any mixing.


Rotella T6 5W-40 Synthetic: OK shifting, OK clutch feel, then the shifting got worse at about 1,500 miles for my 2002 Honda 4-speed transmission. It might be a very good choice for a better quality transmission (it really acts more like a semi-synthetic) , but I question its quality for lasting for many miles based on my experience with it. The calsi.com guy ranks it very high, along with Mike Guillory:

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Motorcycle Motor Oil
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Rotella T3 15W-40: Poor shifting smoothness from day 1, great clutch feel. I still use about half of this oil for its great clutch feel.


Time and trouble for oil mixing is almost none- for my ZZR600, I buy 2 quarts of Valvoline 20w-50 synthetic motorcycle oil and a gallon jug of Rotella T3 15w-40 at the local Walmart.


I add the quarts of synthetic to the crankcase first, then I add the Rotella and use the remaining Rotella for my other motorcycle (also mixed with one or two quarts of the same Valvoline Synthetic) and for my lawnmower.


The oil is mixed by the engine running after changing it. My 1988 design Honda cruiser only gets 1 quart of the synthetic and the rest the Rotella 15w-40 regular.
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Yeah, I was just playing around about mixing oil. I won't use Rotella T6 anymore for the same reasons you stated but many still swear by it. I just use the Rotella T Triple and call it a day. I haven't had it in the 650 for very long but the ZX seems to like it just fine.
 

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I can't argue with the mixing of oil but I sure can't understand why anyone would take the time and money to try it
What if it's wrong?
What if it screws your bike up?
You're playing oil engineer and the outcome is really unknown.
If rotella T6 gets quircky with shifting after 1500 miles, it's cheap to just change it. We're talking 20 bucks for a gallon of full syn oil.
Why make it complicated?
 

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"Why make it complicated?"

Because I was not happy with any of the oils that I tried- poor shifting, poor clutch feel, or too expensive.

I think I get the best of both worlds with my semi-synthetic mix, and if oil mixing was a problem, every time someone switched to a new oil, the remaining old oil in their engine would cause a problem.

I have used a mix the last 10 years, and I plan on using a mix for the next 40 years (I will be 96 then). I like that I can tell if the oil is just starting to fail by how the transmission shifts, for my motorcycles.

For my cars, I do not mix oil. I buy Valvoline MaxLife (a semi-synthetic), and my wife takes hers to the dealer for the recommended synthetic oil every 5,000 miles (for a 2013 Mazda still under warranty).
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that's really complicated
you mix oils for your bike but don't go by the Ferrari forum of mixing oil for your car and you use semi synthetic oil (complete waste of money) for one car and full syn for another car.
What type of cooking oil do you use or do you mix canola with olive oil?
 

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Getting back to the start of my thread, I mentioned that if I stick
with regular oil I might try Kawasaki 10W-40 reg. motorcycle oil.
Nobody mentioned anything about the Kawa. oil if I recall
correctly? Wouldn't that oil be formulated perfectly for Kawa.
engines?
after all this nonsense,
what did you decide on for oil?:grin2:
 

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Kawasaki 10w-40 dealer oil- probably good, but way overpriced.

The source of their oil could change from year to year, depending on which oil company Kawasaki gets a new contract with, then you are mixing oil from the previous supplier, and some think mixing oil might make your engine have a shorter life (highly unlikely in my opinion, but your choice).
 
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The quote below is recent and for big gasoline engine trucks with high miles, but it at least somewhat also applies to motorcycle engines (Gasoline engines are gasoline engines, and diesel oil is rated for use in gasoline engines):
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“There's no hard-and-fast need to stick to the same oil. IMO periodically (not every oil change, maybe every couple of years) switching brands or formulations is probably a good thing- trade additive and detergent packages so the strengths and weaknesses compliment each other over time.”
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Of course, the very next post in that thread is from the “never mix oils or you might die“ crowd.

The last post in that thread:

"AFAIK there is no known issues from switching brands, some on here have no allegiance and only buy what's on sale, so every change is likely something different from last... "
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From:
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Switching oils on high mileage vehicles.... | Passenger Car Motor Oil (PCMO) - Gasoline Cars/Pickups/Vans/SUVs | Bob Is The Oil Guy
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Less than 6 bucks is way over priced?
https://www.kawasaki.com/Accessories/Item/K61021202A
What does a quart of your oil end up being after mixing?
And I don't see anyone in this thread saying mixing oil shortens engine life.
Oils never actually "mix" together. And you don't know if the additives will counteract with each other or cause other problems.
Unless you're an oil engineer and had your witch's brew tested, it's wrong to give such advice in a forum when it isn't proven other than your own judgement
 
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