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Discussion Starter #1
Okay, I feel this problem is more frustraitingly stupid than anything else. When I try to start the bike, the start button is depressed, Guages dim, and relay in junction box clicks. (You can hear it.) That's it. Starter motor does not turn, no other sounds, nothing. I'm thinking it's a dead or weak battery. But I tried to charge it on a charger I have at home. After 5min or so the charger says that the battery is full. I'm not sure It can charge motorcycle batterys or not as it is made for cars but I don't see why it couldn't to some extent.


My only plan Is to get a new battery, or get this one charged at an auto place to try again. After that I haven't a clue.


Any sugestions or Input with this issue would be extreamly appreciated.
 

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Sound like your battery died dude... I would buy a new one or borrow one from a friend and try..
 

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I too will hit the button to have nothing happen. Not sure if your having the same issues as me, but when this happens on my bike ill hold the starter button down and release the clutch lever a lil bit and itll kick over. If that doesnt work then like BB said above, your bat is prolly shot.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I too will hit the button to have nothing happen. Not sure if your having the same issues as me, but when this happens on my bike ill hold the starter button down and release the clutch lever a lil bit and itll kick over. If that doesnt work then like BB said above, your bat is prolly shot.
Your in netural correct? When I try this I just wanna make sure your not in gear or something...
 

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yeah, in netural
 

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these bikes are retarded sometimes.

mine does that at times.. i think i've pinned it down to the solenoid control relay in the junction box, but i've got further testing to do in order to rule that out 100% or not.

the specs say the relay is good for 15A and a million operational cycles, but i'm not so sure about that.

try jumping the bike off a car. if it firs right up, replace the battery.

batteries that are dying will not act right. ever. chances are this is the battery is trashed.
 

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i have a similar problem, my bike doesn't always want to start same symptoms as the op, and it will crank only in nuetral with out pulling the clutch, is this normal?

-Rob
ps dont want to jack your thread
 

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mine will randomly do that sometimes to, but then i'll just wait a few minutes and it will fire right up. just take it to auto zone or somethin and have them check it out.
 

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1) Yes, your battery is bad.

2) While buying the battery spend some extra $$$$ and get a float charger, also called a battery tender. Your battery lasts much longer being hooked up to this.

3) Follow the battery instructions to the letter. If you have to put acid in, it has a specific procedure. Make sure and charge it on the battery tender, if you charge it on the car charger at 2A or above it can decrease the life of the battery. I know, I ignored this, bought a battery a year for a couple of years.

4) For the jump start guys, only jump start off of a cart that is not running, or you could buy very expensive charging parts.

5) My local parts place could not check my battery, but the bike shop could and did.

6) About the clutch pulled in thing: the bike is looking for one of two signals: bike in neutral or the clutch pulled in. Funny thing is that if the clutch switch is disconnected, it will spin all day long and not start. I bet the clutch switch is messed up or the wires are being pulled one way or the other. The connector should be right below the clutch lever bolt. Where the clutch switch meets the lever could have dirt or corrosion, not letting the button pop in and out.
 

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Once the plates inside the battery have been corroded with sulfides, there is really is no coming back from that. There may be a surface voltage reading indicating the battery is charged, but when put under a load, electrons can't flow well and there is no deep cycle output.

In short: Your battery is dead dude. Replace it.
 

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i'll combat #4. a 12 volt system is a 12 volt system is a 12 volt system.

desn't matter if it's got the ability to pass 18 million amps or 5. they're al lte same.. the limit to all 12V charing systems is a high target 14.44.

its only when you exceed the design voltage of reverse the plarity will bad things happen.
 

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Mine was acting the same way. If I put a screw driver across the posts on the starter selenoid it would start right up. Replaced it with a new one ($90) and it starts every time.
 

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ya. the relays suck on these things.

i'll eventually build a switch "pacer" and make a data logger to test components individually.. that way, i can cycle a part repeatedly till it faults over X period of time..

if i see the control relay is good after XXXXX cycle or 24 solid hours at a cycle per second, i'll write it off and go to the next component in line.

i am leaning towards the juntion box imho.. i've had the seat off a few times when mine started acting up, and i tapped the j-box and it cranked right over.. happened more than once, solidifying my belief in the control relay's potential for failure.

the actual starter solenoid is a VERY close second.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Okay, so I finally get to working on her today. I roll it out of the garage and try to start it in a state of hope. Just the click sound again. So I take the seat off and thought I'd try the starter relay jumping. I may be wrong but I thought the relay was in the, whats labled as, "junction box/fuse box". I take the back plate off and notice it's all one board. I then went to hit the start button to narrow down the area where the click was coming from. About the third or so click, the bitch starts right up!!:D

No charging of the battery nothing else done to the bike since the op and she starts. Okay I say, what does that mean? I tried it several times with success. After warming up, I releaved all the choke off, no help from me to raise idle through throttle. So I walk away to start putting away tools. I let it idle by itself for a good 30 mins or so.

(I also wanted to add that before this date, and since op, I've changed the oil, oil filter, and the spark-plugs.)

I turned it off and and about 15 or so min's later I wanted to start it again to drive it up the drive way. When all I got was the motor/starter turning but no ignition. And I tryed and tryed until the damn battery went dead, and down to the clicking again.

My verdict: Nizzmister needs to get a new battery (You cheap bastard) and carbs need to be sync'd. (You cheap bastard) Does anyone want to add anything as to why the motor would not start and just turnover until the battery died or do you think i'm losing my damn mind?:eek:
 

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Check and clean any and all grounds from the battery down the entire harness.
 

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Mine was doing the exact same thing. I believe the dealer called it a Magnetic switch (starter selenoid). It is in a rubber boot on the left side under the seat next to the control box. Pull the rubber boot up and you will see 2 flat bars. that is where i jumped it.
 

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well, theres 2 relays.

theres a control relay (inside the black junction box with the fuses and headlight relay) and theres a power relay (the one with the 30 amp fuse on it and the bigass red wires and plug thats beside the j-box)

the control relay is taking the starter button signal and relaying it (pun!! haha) to the power relay or starter solenoid.

the solenoids coil (to actuate te contacts inside) pulls more power than what the push button on the handlebar can safely deal with, therefor, they use that signal to control a relay that is capable of passing more power on to the solenoid.

kind of a redundant circuit, ya, but that way, you can pass on like 5 amps or so using a switch and wire only good eough for 1/4 of an amp..


FYI, the starter relay is in the corner on the PCB.. the headlight relay is towards the inside, so if you ever need to service it, now ya know ;)
 

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i replaced my internal relays when i got the bike. same problems-starting intermittantly. i started with cleaning the contacts in the starter button (which did work better, not still had some issues) so i took apart the junk box and found 2 black burn lines on the board where it had overpowered that particular circuit (i dont know what the copper leads go to)

so i cut them out with a sharp knife and scraped the old stuff out. then layed a bead of solder down in the little crevace that was left.
i still had some problems but things were much better. i was at a last resort because i knew everything going into the junk box was working fine.

if you pull the relay off the board (5 prongs) very easy, go up to fry's or radioshack might have a mini relay they can match you with. installed the new ones and cranks every day now. it would have been easier for me to buy an ebay junkbox but atleast now mine is back to semi-new standards
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Mine was acting the same way. If I put a screw driver across the posts on the starter selenoid it would start right up. Replaced it with a new one ($90) and it starts every time.
This has helped a lot. It cranks everytime. (Still need a battery because I had to jump it.) The trouble that I'm having now is that it does not want to idle, and if i'm not giving it some gas to around 2k it wants to die and becomes difficult to start again. I want to say that this is due to needing a carb sync and a new battery.

I will add that once started, (And letting it warm up a LONG time.) it will run like the beast it is until it falls under 2k.

:Laughing rolling:<-----I have triangle feet, FYI.
 
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