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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Experts,

I've got a 2000 Zx6r on staock settings. I'm 6'2" and 180 pounds. My problem is when riding quick and braking into corners, at any speeds, the bike decides its not interested in turning but it'd much prefer to disappear towards the curb. I'm braking as hard as i can but 'scrubbing' speed off and past bikes never did this, Aprilia RS125 and RVF400.
Was wondering if anyone had any solutions, any much appreciated,
Cheers
 

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Exactly. As a matter of fact, you probably should overbrake so you will be on the throttle at the start of the turn, and keep a steady pace or accelerate through the turn.
 

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That's sorta normal with most 600s. Your Aprila 125 is a featherweight vs any 600 -- it'll load up less on the front end under braking.

The thing is you want to pick your entry speed first by downshifting and throttle management first (braking if necessary) and then lean hard into it with any > 250 two stroke weight sportbike. If you need to (and got the hang of it) trail brake with the rear (careful) brake when your in late/hot.
 

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That is a tendancy that some bikes have. Tires types can also effect that. My R1 didn't do that and I got kinda used to it. But now I have to be careful because my 03RR wants to.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Cheers Guys,

A friend of mine suggested raising the rear ride height a touch to quicken the steering. I'll have a play( the hardships) and see if i can cure it.
 

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most bikes stand up in turns when braking...just a nature of them....


just get use to maximum braking before the turns...I would recommend against using the rear brake in turns unless you're really experienced...highsiding isn't fun....


if you have to brake hard once the bike leaned in the turn then you are going into the turns too hot....practice better corner entry speeds and use the midrange of the zx-6r to pull you out of the turns fast...
 

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Brake, lean, throttle. Using the brake in a corner is just like leaning the wrong way. Don't do it unless you are perfecting your angle and good enough to stay on the gas at the same time. And, yes it can be done. Works good when you get into a corner a little too hot.
 

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Gyroscopic effect. And yes, they're all right, you can trail brake a little in turns if necessary, but you should be set up for corners and using throttle control through them not braking under lean. If you're braking mid-corner (on a constant or increasing radius for sure anyway) you're losing time, period.

And by the way, I completely believe that panic braking in turns (not suggesting that's what YOU are doing here) is the number one rookie mistake by sportbikers and leads to the most crashes. I can't tell you how many guys I know who got themselves in trouble not trusting their bike to make the turn when they get in a little hot and end up standing it right up under heavy braking... whammo...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I do understand position, brake, lean, throttle but i as all other motorbike rider make mistakes. I did raise the rear ride height by 6mm and i found its made huge improvement in front end feel and turn in especially on the brakes. Cheers for the feed back, i guess it takes awhile to get use to all the extra weight.

Was wondering if anyone knows where i can hold of a high level can, in the uk, as i've noticed that if the pegs touch theres virtually nothing left before the exhausts does as well,

thanx guys.
 

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Mr Spitz - are you saying that when your pegs touch down the exhaust is also close to touching? Does that mean with 1"up/back rearsets, my exhaust is going to touch down before my footpegs? I have an '02 BTW.
 

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MrSpitz, I don't think you NEED a high exit exhaust in order to improve clearance. Most quality aftermarket systems should put themselves in NO danger of scraping even for Eric Bostrom. However, if you absolutely are sold on more bends in the pipe, try Hindle, MIG, Micron, Devil, or Two Brothers for a start. Of course, because the 2002 uses a bolt-on system, you'll be buying a full exhaust, which also means you'll want to add a jet kit and likely some dyno time to set it up.
 

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just a fyi, the reason you get braking standup is due to the tire profile. mainly due to where the center of the contact patch is in relation to the center of the tire. rounder profiles are more prone to it than the older, more triangular shaped tires. you can decrease the effect by raising rear (like you did) or raising the forks. the downside, it will cause the front to tuck faster.

eric - he is probley talking about stock rearsets. if you touch down aftermarket rearsets, your close to crashing anyways.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
thanx yellow plates, hadn't thought about the tires being the problem. I've always run d207's on my last two bikes but my zx6r came with BT010's, so i might try swpping over to something a bit more pointy.
On the exhaust side of things, i'm on normal footrests and with a big fat micron exhaust. I've never had my pegs touch on the road, and never will, but i am planning on doing a couple of track days in the future and am aware of exhaust clearence limitations. I also reckon hi-level cans look trick.
cheers guys.
 

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would it be the tire prifle of the front or the rear? or a combination of both? just curious...


and I'm not sure you can get many tires that will fit the zx-6r rims that will be narrow enough not to cause some sort of standup...maybe a higher profile will help?
 

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The problem is caused by the construction of both tires, but mostly that of the front tire, which takes on weight on the brakes.

Some tires stand up more than others on the brakes. For instance, the Michelin Pilot Sport does so more than the Metzeler Rennsport. The Pilot Sport front is quite a bit taller than the Rennsport front, and the Pilot Sport rear is quite a bit shorter than the Rennsport rear, which changes the ride height. If you install Pilot Sports, you can partly solve the problem by raising the forks through the triple clamps to maintain the ride height, but you cannot get around the difference in construction between the brands.
 

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good to know Rob,

I guess my problem is that if you are getting on the brakes that hard in corners causing you to run wide, you are doing something wrong in the turn setup phase...
 

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That may be true on the road. But if you like to pass or keep from getting passed into corners on the track, it is essential to master trail braking. It is not the fastest way through a corner, but it will quickly get you to the apex.
 

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i just assummed trial braking was done before you were totally committed to your line...

I would think you would want 100% traction at maximum lean...ofcourse I'm aspeaking out of my ass since I never raced against others...

guess I never had to push my bike to those limits. I do all my braking, crack the trottle open before I'm at maximum lean for a corner so all I have to do is my thorttle work on the exit.

again maybe I'm using "traibraking" in a very narrow way and it infact means any braking done after you iniate the steering inputs.

maybe someone can give me the exact definition of trailbraking so I dont look like an asshole?

;)
 
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