2005-2006 ZX6R throttle body synchronization guide.
Written by Tweakmon, Oct. 22, 2006
Q: What does ‘synchronizing the TB’s actually’ mean, and what does it entail?
A: throttle body synchronization (commonly referred to as a 'TB Sync') is the process by which you equalize the amount of vacuum the cylinders pull at zero throttle. On the ZX6R, each cylinder has its’ own throttle body, so the four must be ‘synchronized’ with each other to have closest to the same amount of vaccuum as possible. This is done by small pilot screws located in the side of the throttle body.
The purpose of this guide:
It is important to keep the TB’s synced so that the engine will run at its peak performance by maximizing the engine’s intake/output efficiency. A very noticeable difference it will make is the smoothness of how the engine runs, which results in less vibration in the bars. Also, the throttle response will improve as well as idle quality.
Tools needed:
This guide assumes you have the proper tools and mechanical understanding to accomplish the job at hand. It is NOT something that you want to do wrong or your bike will run like junk.
1. Vacuum sync gauges
2. 5-inch long small-bladed flathead screwdriver. (see pic below)
3. Other tools needed for general disassembly of the bike.
4. Special Kawi fuel line extension. Part# 57001-1578 (there is a workaround for this)
If you do not have a factory service manual at this point, go get one. It is your bible as far as this bike is concerned, and there is little you can do properly without it.
STEP 1: Remove the fuel tank (see manual).
STEP 2: Remove the airbox (see manual).
IMPORTANT: If your air filter is dirty, clean or replace it before continuing for most accurate results.
STEP 3: Attach the vacuum hoses to the right-side vacuum ports on the front of the throttle bodies:
Usually the port for cylinder #1 is just a cap, cylinders #2 and #3 have a hose that connects them together then on to the clean air valve, and cylinder #4 sends vacuum to the canister valve. Just disconnect the hoses from #’s 2-4 and connect the vacuum sync tool lines instead. Do NOT disconnect the lines that all intersect and run to the MAP sensor. They are easily identified because they all connect together, and are all the left ports.
STEP 4: Reinstall the airbox (no need to bolt down the front, but do tighten the TB throat clamps.) including all hoses. Make sure the air filter is installed. NEVER run an engine without an air filter.
STEP 5: Reconnect the gas tank so that it will work while allowing you sufficient room to access the TB pilot screws which are located on the rear of the TB's.
Kawi recommends using their special extended fuel line so you can connect the tank sitting on a nearby bench to the fuel rail. It costs about $20 USD, but there is a ‘shade tree’ way. Use a 2x4 that is about 17 inches long to prop up the front of the gas tank. Just pivot it on its’ rear hinge. This will allow you to squeeze around inside long enough to access the pilot screws and adjust them. A flashlight will come in handy.
Now with your vacuum sync tool connected, the airbox back in place and the fuel tank reconnected to allow access to the fuel rail area (rear of TB’s) start the bike up and warm it to at least 180F before continuing. Also, using the power commander software, make sure that the idle stays around 1300 +/- 50 RPM’s. This is important. If it is off too much it will mess with the sync. Readjust it after EVERY pilot screw adjustment as needed.
While the bike is warming up, look at the vacuum gauges and see how far out the cylinders are from each other. Hopefully you connected the hoses in an order so you know which cylinder corresponds to which meter on the gauge.
Our entire goal here is to have all 4 bars of the gauge above to match. If one is higher than the other, it is pulling more vacuum. If one is lower than another, it is pulling less vacuum. The amount of vacuum is not really important. All that really matters is that they need to be as equal as possible. As you can see in the picture above, these are all pretty close to perfectly equal.
If any are out, use the 5-inch long small-bladed flathead screwdriver to adjust the pilot screw that corresponds to the cylinder that needs to be adjusted based on the gauge reading. You can access the screws from behind the TB rack (see pic below)
Rules to remember:
If a particular cylinder is LOW, turn its pilot screw IN (clockwise) to raise it
If a particular cylinder is HIGH, turn its pilot screw OUT (counter-clockwise) to lower it.
IMPORTANT: Adjust cylinders 1-2 to each other, and then 3-4 to each other. If after that sides 1-2 and 3-4 are not all equal to each other, use the screw in the center of the TB’s to equalize the 2 sides (see picture above for locations). Technically, you should never need to touch this center 1-2/3-4 sync screw. Be sure you have synced the individual cylinders properly before adjusting this screw!
Alternate method:
After connecting the sync tool, warm up the bike and then shut it off. Turn all 4 of the pilot screws GENTLY all the way IN, then back them out ½ turn. Start the bike up and adjust all of the cylinders to match the LOWEST one on the gauge.
TIPS:
Don’t turn the pilot screws more than 1/6 of a turn at a time. Always blip the throttle to equalize it and recheck again. Watch the RPM’s on the laptop as well. Keep it at 1300 +/- 50 else the sync will be off! The instrument panel tach is NOT accurate enough for this.
Also, don’t take too long, as the bike will be getting warmer as you work without any air flowing through the radiator. The cooling fan should keep it from overheating, but watch the temp to be safe. You can always let it cool off a bit and finish later. Better yet, blow a house fan through the radiator.
STEP 6: When you have finished and all cylinders are equal, shut the bike off. Disconnect the fuel tank. Remove the airbox, reconnect all vacuum lines, reinstall the airbox. Reinstall the gas tank.
Go for a ride and feel the new found smoothness and throttle response!
Written by Tweakmon, Oct. 22, 2006
Q: What does ‘synchronizing the TB’s actually’ mean, and what does it entail?
A: throttle body synchronization (commonly referred to as a 'TB Sync') is the process by which you equalize the amount of vacuum the cylinders pull at zero throttle. On the ZX6R, each cylinder has its’ own throttle body, so the four must be ‘synchronized’ with each other to have closest to the same amount of vaccuum as possible. This is done by small pilot screws located in the side of the throttle body.
The purpose of this guide:
It is important to keep the TB’s synced so that the engine will run at its peak performance by maximizing the engine’s intake/output efficiency. A very noticeable difference it will make is the smoothness of how the engine runs, which results in less vibration in the bars. Also, the throttle response will improve as well as idle quality.
Tools needed:
This guide assumes you have the proper tools and mechanical understanding to accomplish the job at hand. It is NOT something that you want to do wrong or your bike will run like junk.
1. Vacuum sync gauges
2. 5-inch long small-bladed flathead screwdriver. (see pic below)
3. Other tools needed for general disassembly of the bike.
4. Special Kawi fuel line extension. Part# 57001-1578 (there is a workaround for this)
If you do not have a factory service manual at this point, go get one. It is your bible as far as this bike is concerned, and there is little you can do properly without it.
STEP 1: Remove the fuel tank (see manual).
STEP 2: Remove the airbox (see manual).
IMPORTANT: If your air filter is dirty, clean or replace it before continuing for most accurate results.
STEP 3: Attach the vacuum hoses to the right-side vacuum ports on the front of the throttle bodies:
Usually the port for cylinder #1 is just a cap, cylinders #2 and #3 have a hose that connects them together then on to the clean air valve, and cylinder #4 sends vacuum to the canister valve. Just disconnect the hoses from #’s 2-4 and connect the vacuum sync tool lines instead. Do NOT disconnect the lines that all intersect and run to the MAP sensor. They are easily identified because they all connect together, and are all the left ports.
STEP 4: Reinstall the airbox (no need to bolt down the front, but do tighten the TB throat clamps.) including all hoses. Make sure the air filter is installed. NEVER run an engine without an air filter.
STEP 5: Reconnect the gas tank so that it will work while allowing you sufficient room to access the TB pilot screws which are located on the rear of the TB's.
Kawi recommends using their special extended fuel line so you can connect the tank sitting on a nearby bench to the fuel rail. It costs about $20 USD, but there is a ‘shade tree’ way. Use a 2x4 that is about 17 inches long to prop up the front of the gas tank. Just pivot it on its’ rear hinge. This will allow you to squeeze around inside long enough to access the pilot screws and adjust them. A flashlight will come in handy.
Now with your vacuum sync tool connected, the airbox back in place and the fuel tank reconnected to allow access to the fuel rail area (rear of TB’s) start the bike up and warm it to at least 180F before continuing. Also, using the power commander software, make sure that the idle stays around 1300 +/- 50 RPM’s. This is important. If it is off too much it will mess with the sync. Readjust it after EVERY pilot screw adjustment as needed.
While the bike is warming up, look at the vacuum gauges and see how far out the cylinders are from each other. Hopefully you connected the hoses in an order so you know which cylinder corresponds to which meter on the gauge.
Our entire goal here is to have all 4 bars of the gauge above to match. If one is higher than the other, it is pulling more vacuum. If one is lower than another, it is pulling less vacuum. The amount of vacuum is not really important. All that really matters is that they need to be as equal as possible. As you can see in the picture above, these are all pretty close to perfectly equal.
If any are out, use the 5-inch long small-bladed flathead screwdriver to adjust the pilot screw that corresponds to the cylinder that needs to be adjusted based on the gauge reading. You can access the screws from behind the TB rack (see pic below)
Rules to remember:
If a particular cylinder is LOW, turn its pilot screw IN (clockwise) to raise it
If a particular cylinder is HIGH, turn its pilot screw OUT (counter-clockwise) to lower it.
IMPORTANT: Adjust cylinders 1-2 to each other, and then 3-4 to each other. If after that sides 1-2 and 3-4 are not all equal to each other, use the screw in the center of the TB’s to equalize the 2 sides (see picture above for locations). Technically, you should never need to touch this center 1-2/3-4 sync screw. Be sure you have synced the individual cylinders properly before adjusting this screw!
Alternate method:
After connecting the sync tool, warm up the bike and then shut it off. Turn all 4 of the pilot screws GENTLY all the way IN, then back them out ½ turn. Start the bike up and adjust all of the cylinders to match the LOWEST one on the gauge.
TIPS:
Don’t turn the pilot screws more than 1/6 of a turn at a time. Always blip the throttle to equalize it and recheck again. Watch the RPM’s on the laptop as well. Keep it at 1300 +/- 50 else the sync will be off! The instrument panel tach is NOT accurate enough for this.
Also, don’t take too long, as the bike will be getting warmer as you work without any air flowing through the radiator. The cooling fan should keep it from overheating, but watch the temp to be safe. You can always let it cool off a bit and finish later. Better yet, blow a house fan through the radiator.
STEP 6: When you have finished and all cylinders are equal, shut the bike off. Disconnect the fuel tank. Remove the airbox, reconnect all vacuum lines, reinstall the airbox. Reinstall the gas tank.
Go for a ride and feel the new found smoothness and throttle response!
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